The front ones drain near the back of the front wheels.
The rears drain near the front of the back wheels.

Usually what happens is that the drains in each corner
will rust where they connect to the hose that runs in the
window pillars.
If memory serves they are pretty hard to get to due to
where they are located.
You might be able to get to them once you undo the headliner
in the corners.
Mine were fine so I didn't mess with it to much so I can't remember
exactly how you get to the connections.

Louis

__________________
Not always the smartest but certainly not dumb?

My guess on the water leak is a failed windshield seal.

I use the combination in the pic to remove calipers. Sears stuff as far as I can remember.

The black swivel is an impact unit.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Anyone know what the 3 prong plug is in the first picture? It looks like it connects to the drivers seat.


Any good tests for the WS seals? Just hit it with water and observe where it comes in?

Three prong plug is seat belt warning connection.

__________________
1982 300TDT
1991 190D
2022 Metris

"Any good tests for the WS seals? Just hit it with water and observe where it comes in?"

Pretty much.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Cut strips of bath towels and stuff tightly between the WS seal and the dash. Hit with a hose or wait for the next rain, pull towel out slowly as you feel the towel for wetness. You'll be able to identify the spot of water entry.

Pull out the EGR computer (behind a cover on front passenger fender), undo connector. If water comes out or there's signs of corrosion on the pins from water damage, that'd short the signals and stop the tach from working.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Still learning this car- is this from the inside or outside of the car?

Happy to report some progress this weekend. I didn't meet my own goals of having her back driving but much was accomplished.

Charging issue: Boy. I had a hell of a time with this alternator. If I could swear in German...

I need to look up the alternator threads and re-read see if I missed something- I probably did.

Issue 1: You must use the factory metal fan and NOT the one provided with the Bosch unit. The Bosch fan is just a few mm larger and ends up fouling on the alternator bracket.

Issue 2: This was noted in one of the alternator threads, but I foolishly dismissed it. The posts onto which you put the eye ring terminals on the Bosch unit are actually WAY longer than they need to be. It doesn't seem like this would make ANY difference, but it actually makes the alternator essentially impossible to put into position. Solution is to simply cut/grind off the excess. I lopped off about 1/4" from the main terminal and maybe 1/6th" from the smaller.

Issue 3: Not really a huge issue but the wiring I used for the signal wire on the alternator (the blue wire) is an absurdly small gauge - maybe 18 or 20 AWG - I used a 10 or 12 AWG wire because that's what I had handy. In retrospect I could and should have just used some standard hook up wire. My signal wire is way overkill and just created an annoyance when connecting it to the blue wire.

Other than that, the bolts are such a pia to access. I think I need to invest in some ratcheting wrenches. Unbolting and tightening those bolts 1/4" of a turn at a time ends up taking forever.

But all the issues aside, I have wired what I believe to be a superior job to the factory while keeping mostly factory locations for the wiring. The alternator is charging at idle 14.2 volts. So right as rain there.

And the real good news - all three of my permanent warning lights (Battery light, brake light and brake wear light) have now gone off!

In addition the tachometer is working again now that I've replaced the fuse. Huzzah.

Leak issue:

While I was working on the alternator, I decided since the battery was undone I should remove it and the battery tray and inspect for rust holes behind it.

Well, I found one. Where the hood hinges evidently drain to below the battery tray and into the fender was a bit clogged. There was also a rust hole developing right next to it in the corner. I cleaned it up as best I could and really dug at it to see if it went through.

I hooked up lights from the interior and exterior and checked both ways to see if light was penetrating into the cabin. However, none was. So this might be a source of some of the leaking. It's hard to say.

Regardless, after cleaning up the area I attempted to degrease it as best I could and then applied a POR-15 like substance the affected area. Used my heat gun set to low and had the area nice and warmed up before application and during drying. Gave the affected area two coats and let dry. I then applied 3M seam sealer to the area also in two steps building up the hole and surrounding area so that water will go directly to the drain.

Who knows if that will help... but can't hurt!

Random Questions:

1. Anyone have an idea why the dash lights are out, but the aux lights work (high beams, brake, etc)?

2. The handle to open the rear hatch is non functional. Can only open the hatch from the outside (most of the time that works). Common problem? Take that panel off and inspect?

3. Floor heat? It looks like there are plastic conduits for air to flow out of, but I have absolutely zero air flow to the lower vents. Doesn't matter what setting I have selected on the HVAC it's either full blast up top or nothing. My feet get chilly.

4. What does the washer fluid receiver look like and the pump for it? I think I may have located the pump, just chilling naked cold and alone in the engine bay. Doesn't appear to have a fluid res.

5. I may need to grab a picture for this one- but on the center console where the hazards and window switches are there is an adjustable knobby and some dials. I have no idea what these do, I can't tell if they do anything. They look like they would adjust side mirrors but don't. Are these for the headlights?

3. May an ACC cold solder issue. You'd have to remove and inspect it.

4. Please put your car in your avatar or signature, this is important to answering questions.
Pics? If you have a 123, the reservoir should be beside the radiator.

5. The dial should be the radio front/rear fader, not sure of the "adjustable knobby", pics?

What car?

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

1. Instrument cluster bulbs burnt out, or failed dimmer rheostat. rotate the knob back and forth 20 times, sometimes fixes it.
Do the other cabin lights work? dome, console & shift lights? if not, check fuse box under hood. Headlights on different circuit.

2. Its your problem now. take off panel to inspect next time you are bored.

3. My sedan is same way. I put a dog blanket on my legs for long trips. Would love to have an answer as well.

4. there an empty spot near the pump? maybe some fastener holes on fender? will check car in AM if no one chimes in.

5. nubbin controls passenger mirror. switch could just be crapped up.
I have to pull the panel & clean out window switches etc every couple months. I blame the dogs. Panel not difficult to remove, but there is a trick to it.

__________________
1991 300D

Will the tailight fuse turn off the dash? It says noob in the title so maybe double check your tailights. Newer cars have the dash lights hooked up so you know your tailights are out.

But yeah prob the rheostat.

Fix the rear hatch before you can't open it.

Get some warm socks. Be grateful you have heat. Jk.

I'm a little redneck sometimes but any washer tank you can fit will work. I got one from a Dodge Durango as its fits a hole in my car. It's like Tetris
at the junkyard.

5. That's the hyper speed button. Do not push it without a long stretch of road in front of you.

From inside. If you were sitting in the passenger seat, It'd be facing your right shin. Now that your tach is working by replacing the fuse, still not a bad idea to check if there is water in the EGR connector, which could have been the cause of the blown fuse in the first place.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Thanks for the awesome replies everyone! Much appreciated.


Last night I put on the rear brakes as much as I could- realized I'm missing some copper washers for the calipers/brake lines. But done otherwise.

Started on the fronts again, they are close as well. I need to rewire the brake wear sensors and slap on the calipers and should be good to begin bleeding everything.

I was able to separate the rotor from the hub using the tire/breaker bar trick. Wow it was easy. I was blown away how poorly my brand new Craftsman impact wrench handled those bolts when I could undue them with almost no effort. Guess what's being returned to the store!

Looking forward to getting her on the road with brand new tires and brakes and feeling the difference.

__________________
Greg
__________________________
85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000