Please help me pick the correct order of these jobs - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #16 12-08-2014, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

don't worry about the wheels... just get a 7.5" circle saw (worm drive is best) and put the lennox metal cutting blade on it. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!!! and inform ANYBODY nearby to wear a full face mask! then when you have pulled everything off the car, just cut into quarters, and toss the stuff in the back of a truck.

simple.

Ahhh the Mad Max approach - you have to start making some videos of these events John

vstech · #17 12-08-2014, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Ahhh the Mad Max approach - you have to start making some videos of these events John

cameras cannot survive the stress of the excitement...

Shortsguy1 · #18 12-08-2014, 12:00 PM

Okay, so based on everyone's helpful advice, I have a followup question:

If I am going to salvage most everything possible from the car, I will obviously end up having to cut the body into pieces to dispose of it. Given this fact, should I just cut away the car from above to get to all the parts we are discussing. I wouldn't have to jack up the car to get the rear subframe to clear, if there was no car there anymore.

As leathermang mentioned, I have a dirt driveway (at a slight slope) and jacking a car way up in the air is not going to be very safe. Has anyone cut away the car first and then dropped stuff with easy access from above?

Time is unfortunately short on this project, so I am trying to find an efficient way to salvage what I can and then get the car out of my wife's sight.

leathermang · #19 12-08-2014, 12:08 PM

I am assuming you are talking about AFTER you have pulled the engine and trans...
By far your easiest cut is across over the back passenger foot well....
trying to cut stuff off from the top down I think would be way too much work.... engine and trans out.... cut in half .... roll over and deal with the other stuff.

vstech · #20 12-08-2014, 12:12 PM

I've rolled the cars on the side to remove the subframe, it's REALLY hard to hold the car still if the bolts are rusty... I mean REALLY REALLY hard...

Stretch · #21 12-08-2014, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

cameras cannot survive the stress of the excitement...

I'm not sure I could!

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

...
By far your easiest cut is across over the back passenger foot well....
trying to cut stuff off from the top down I think would be way too much work.... engine and trans out.... cut in half .... roll over and deal with the other stuff.

I don't think that cut will help too much.

The bolts for the subframe mounts can be buggers to remove

Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement

Make sure these are loose before you cut away the strength

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Okay, so based on everyone's helpful advice, I have a followup question:

If I am going to salvage most everything possible from the car, I will obviously end up having to cut the body into pieces to dispose of it. Given this fact, should I just cut away the car from above to get to all the parts we are discussing. I wouldn't have to jack up the car to get the rear subframe to clear, if there was no car there anymore.

As leathermang mentioned, I have a dirt driveway (at a slight slope) and jacking a car way up in the air is not going to be very safe. Has anyone cut away the car first and then dropped stuff with easy access from above?

Time is unfortunately short on this project, so I am trying to find an efficient way to salvage what I can and then get the car out of my wife's sight.

If working on a slope is a problem I'd just chock the front wheels and then lift the back

Is a tackle block and a big tree an option?

If you go down the cutting route I'd see if I could borrow or rent a plasma torch. I'm kind of guessing if a scrap car is an eyesore the sound of a cutting disc is going to flip someone out.

funola · #22 12-08-2014, 12:44 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqgQPhEwAZ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv7RafzuUQc

vstech · #23 12-08-2014, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqgQPhEwAZ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lv7RafzuUQc

I've tried the dual saw... you have to cut straight... no turning at all, or the drive mechanism shatters.
a simple worm drive saw with a metal cutting diamond blade makes short quick work of any car.

funola · #24 12-08-2014, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I've tried the dual saw... you have to cut straight... no turning at all, or the drive mechanism shatters.
a simple worm drive saw with a metal cutting diamond blade makes short quick work of any car.

How sensitive is it to a non straight cut and shattering? Circular saws by nature are made to cut straight, not curves. Were you able to get yours fixed? I bought one couple years ago and have not even used it once. Now this reminds me I should dig it out and give it a try.

What does a worm drive metal cutting diamond blade like? Is it more like a concrete diamond blade with no teeth?

leathermang · #25 12-08-2014, 01:16 PM

For some parts of that cut.... the deep ones a circular saw will not reach through...
a good ' Sawzall type' ... a reciprocating blade is available in a GRIT edge... boron brazed on the edge ..... I think....
which will slowly go through most anything on that car...
Don't force it.... let the edge do the cutting... I had one last twenty years and I used it regularly... Remington I think is one brand....

funola · #26 12-08-2014, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

For some parts of that cut.... the deep ones a circular saw will not reach through...
a good ' Sawzall type' ... a reciprocating blade is available in a GRIT edge... boron brazed on the edge ..... I think....
which will slowly go through most anything on that car...
Don't force it.... let the edge do the cutting... I had one last twenty years and I used it regularly... Remington I think is one brand....

Never heard of a GRIT edge blade. Can you post a link? It's unclear the way it's written whether you have a Sawzall or a GRIT edge blade last 20 years.

leathermang · #27 12-08-2014, 01:31 PM

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=remgrit+blade+reciprocating+saw+

The grit edge blade lasted more than 20 years....

funola · #28 12-08-2014, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=remgrit+blade+reciprocating+saw+

The grit edge blade lasted more than 20 years....

Carbide coated blades. I have those. On metal, they cut really slow.

leathermang · #29 12-08-2014, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Carbide coated blades. I have those. On metal, they cut really slow.

I already said they cut slow... they really do not cut... they grind....but if you let them do the work they really last a long time.... and will cut through stuff a normal metal cutting reciprocating saw will not....not just one blade that is....

TnBob · #30 12-08-2014, 03:01 PM

Pull the motor/tranny as a unit.
Roll the car back.
BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS !
Remove the rear end.