My first solvent of choice in many applications like this is laquer thinner. If that does not work I am pretty sure I have a job on my hands usually.

Unfortunatly there are some pretty strong higher tech type adhesives out there today.

Stop by your local body shop and ask what they currently use.
I have used a rubber eraser ball (made for removing decal pin stripes) on a drill.

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

That is why the first thing that happens on those occasions where I have purchased a vehicle from a dealership is to get their stupid logo decal/placard off the car.

When we lived in Dallas we bought a car from a dealer that put on a silver badge of the state of Texas. Just like Hank Hill's belt buckle. Needless to say that came off as soon as it got home.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Ammonia or awesome. Cover it with suran rap and park in the sun. Let it soak. And heat gun is nice too. I hate doing that, my buddy has a tint shop so I usually ask him.

If that fails, sandblaster.

It'll get rid of the remainder glue from your Window Tint also!

LM,

Notice at 13 Sec on the Laser Video our old friend Phalanx comes alive also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L0ZAGOuaqg

Of course it's more than a dollar an episode,and it's the last step before the
"Nuclear Option".
H*ll, for whatever is in it's target zone it's beyond the "N.O."

Attached Thumbnails

 

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Old school bug and tar remover. Might be a turtlewax brand product

Lucas' advice to cover with Saran wrap turned out to be the key!

Carb cleaner works great, it just evaporated way too fast, and the Saran wrap solved that. Got more done in 20 minutes today than I did in an hour and a half and a dozen different solvents before.

Thank you everyone. Not too concerned with the paint, just prepping so that I can rattle can it eventually. Thinking flat or matte blue.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Just wait till someone mixes the wrong solvent with the Saran Wrap.... what a mess that will make...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Gasoline? Lol. Ammonia was I've always seen. Buddy said he's using awesome cleaner now from the dollar store.

My buddy has a tint shop and due to my OCD he has tinted one of my cars at least 10 times. Always removing the old glue like that.

same buddy does vinyl graphics. Just saw this the other day, made me think of your truck.

That looks sharp!

I'll post pics of my progress later on when it gets light outside. Darned internal clock, used to being at work at 6, real hard to sleep in to 7am even on the weekend.

Thank you again, everyone.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

ammonia ?
What happened to ' likes dissolve likes'....
Can some chemist explain how that would work on a glue... ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Ammonia wouldn't touch it. I'm finally going to get all this stuff off, only to find that this super gunk was the only thing holding the truck together.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I'm not the most knowledgable with chemistry or adhesives. I did a Google and it's commonly used for window tint glue and carpet glue.

Here's the dummy version. Holding your breath does not seem like an effective method. Lol.
m.wikihow.com/Remove-Tint-Glue-From-Glass

If you look at glass cleaners it's common for some to say ammonia free. Glass cleaner with ammonia is what makes your aftermarket tint turn purple.

Good quality tint like lumar is not effected by ammonia. Something to do with a ceramic coating if I remember correctly.


So basically. Idk.

I think the main point would be to test whatever you use with suran wrap before putting it on your surface. Somewhere else said paper towels.

That must have been a good quality sticker. And yeah those stock graphics are sweet. I just took a dirt bike tank in and they printed new OEM style graphics in thick moto vinyl. They even cut holes in it like the original. If you are around the slo area, pm me for a recommendation. These guys are good.

Thanks for the recommendations. The stuff I'm removing is what's left of the Toyota factory graphics.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap