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  #1  
Old 12-12-2014, 10:18 PM
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Exclamation Oops - need help repairing steel brake line

So....I've been driving around with no rear brakes since yesterday...

What's happened? Well the engine mounts (I made a thread here) while still looking perfectly fine, must be collapsed somehow, and have caused the engine to sit too low, and the air filter housing to interfere with the brake master cylinder, especially the line at the front which goes to the rear brakes. This rattling over time has caused the line right at the joint to leak and I suspect crack. Hence no fluid left in the pictures...

The air filter housing has a cut out to clear the master cylinder (apparently from the factory, but the guy I bought it off said he did it himself), and it worked in the W123 the engine was last in, and since the mounts from that car weren't carried over, the engine must be sitting lower due to the mounts it has now. Which is strange, because as I said the mounts look fine. I just can't think of any other reason why the filter housing would sit nearly 2" too low. That bit of rag there was between the two but fell out.

So anyway, I have a spare line but have to join it about 5" away from the master cylinder. I'm doing a PP order shortly, (including Phoenix engine mounts) and was wondering if I can get some sort of brake line joiner, as I haven't had much luck searching through PP?

Thanks

Attached Thumbnails
Oops - need help repairing steel brake line-20141212_141118-custom-.jpg   Oops - need help repairing steel brake line-20141212_141124-custom-.jpg  
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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

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  #2  
Old 12-12-2014, 10:56 PM
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Posts: 3,941
The only correct repair is to replace the entire length of brake line. It's possible to join a new length of brake line to the good part of the existing line using a flare union. However, depending on clearance, it may be quite difficult to do a good flare on the old line without removing it. If you have to remove it, you may as well replace it.

Whatever you do, don't be tempted to use a compression union. The pressure in a brake line can blow a compression fitting apart. A flare union is the only alternative to a new line. This is what you would use:

91429 BRAKE LINE UNION 7941

You would also need the male fittings:

90027 METRIC INVERT FLARE NUT - BLUE

And you'd need some good tools: a bubble flare tool and a tubing bender.

Last edited by Mxfrank; 12-12-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-12-2014, 11:12 PM
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Location: central Texas
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Like Frank said.... Double Flares are required on brake lines.... don't skimp on that spec....
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2014, 12:07 AM
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Thanks guys, I guess I should try local places first now I know what to look for. Then of course I have to fix the actual cause of the problem somehow in the meantime
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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

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  #5  
Old 12-13-2014, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Like Frank said.... Double Flares are required on brake lines.... don't skimp on that spec....
Careful here. There are bubble flares and double flares, either is acceptable for brake lines. Which you use depends on which fittings you buy, the two are not compatible. Also, use a good tubing cutter, you won't be able to get a good cut with a saw.
Attached Thumbnails
Oops - need help repairing steel brake line-double.jpg   Oops - need help repairing steel brake line-bubble.jpg  

Last edited by Mxfrank; 12-13-2014 at 07:37 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2014, 09:24 AM
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Ok... I will state it this way... SINGLE flares are not acceptable...

the other two involve doubling the thickness of the brake line where it needs the extra strength.. here is a good instructional description of them..

note that a bubble flare is the first step in getting to the ' double flare'..

Tips and Tricks to Flare your own brake lines | Eastwood Blog
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2014, 09:37 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Maybe the air cleaner is bolted on without its 1" tall rubber cushions.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2014, 11:05 AM
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the problem is your steering wheel is on the wrong side of the car...
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2014, 12:53 PM
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this might help

Federal Hill Trading Co.


louis
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2014, 10:45 PM
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Location: New Zealand
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Thanks guys.

I haven't had much luck finding any of those flaring tools around here. Might have to get the mechanic onto this one. Not the biggest job.

Thing is, I have to raise the engine permanently before I can even think about fixing the brake line and bleeding it all...and I'm still not 100% sure it's the engine mounts...

Edit:
Yes it has the rubber mounts underneath, I need a way to lift it up by nearly 2 more inches somehow
And yes blimin' turbo 617 and RHD cars...although the Oz forum folks say their swaps work fine with only heat shields from the 280s

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

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