|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
How Much and How Hard to change CV Axle Boots?
Curious how hard it is to replace the boots? Is it worth doing or better to just buy new axles? (84 300D)
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. Last edited by 777funk; 12-20-2014 at 11:17 AM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
vstech does boot changes, I believe one has to have the correct tools which aren't readily available...
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I did not spell check this so expect spelling errors.
New Axles of the same quality are like $450 each. Other aftermarket can have fitment and longivity issues. I have yet to read of anyone using a Split type Boot although some People have claimed they are out there. If you buy the Asian Aftermarket Axles I suggest you get then locally so that they are easy to exchange if you have a problem. There is plenty of info on rebooting in the DIY Links . You need to decide if you want the Stock type Boots that cannot be stretched over the ends. That could be easy if you have Annular Axles or you would need a Hydraulic Press if you have the Homokinetic type Axles (the Homokinetic ones have a similar Can on each end). You can use the Astoria Flexx Boots or Dorman Universial Boots that can be stretched over either type of Axle. You also need to decide if you want to use Oil or Grease. If you want the entirely rebuilt there is a place on Col. that has a good rep on rebuilding. I suggest you do some reading. Repair Links Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 12-20-2014 at 12:50 PM. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
''You also need to decide if you want to use Oil or Grease.''== Diesel911
This is a question due to the fact that they came from the factory with oil in them... but some people use grease when they rebuild them...which may allow the grease to be thrown against the inside of the new boot , stick there, and not be available for lubing the bearings...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Ahhh! I knew I saw the Astoria thing a while back. DieselGiant had this link that I forgot about.
I'd probably use a similar weight oil (by feel and eyeball) and keep the OEM axles if I could salvage them and get boots over them somehow.
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I have used the split boot that bolts together. Go to the dorman website and pick out the boot that closets fits you will not find an exact fit but fabricate also. With all these cars on the road yet I do not know why they do'nt make an exact fit. I also use grease inside and have gone probably 50,000 miles with no issues. Cheap quick fix for about $18/boot.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Grease works fine and someone said that CVJ the rebuilder in CO uses Grease unless you request Oil. Grease has the advantage that it is not going to come out as easily if the Boot got ripped from some road hazard.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 12-20-2014 at 10:49 PM. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I decided to re-boot them with Dorman Boots. But, more to the point they were filled with Grease (and had no issues for those 5-6 years) and while there was some Grease in the Boots there was plenty of Grease inside of the Joints. In fact when I removed the Boots I left as much of the original Grease as I could inside of the Joint and packed the Cans full of more Grease and also put Grease in the Boots. So there is no place for the Grease to migrate to bacuse mine are pretty full. (Note that I used Dorman Universal Boot Kits and it comes with a Grease Packet but that is not nearly enough Grease so you would need to buy more.) One of our Forum Members also spoke with someone at CVJ and was told they use Grease unless you request Oil. There is all kinds of CV Axles out there with Rubber Boots that are lubed with Grease that are not having issues. Just don't be stingy with the grease. There is some pics in the below thread and shows the great care the Author used in applying the Grease during his stock Boot replace. Homokinetic AXLE Boot Link cutting the CANS using Stock Boots boostnbenz http://www.superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/ http://superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Looks like the new Dorman boots use some sort of adhesive/glue that binds the halves together. Maybe they work? I'd still think a slip over boot might be better. But then again, who wants to mess with getting the axles out if there's an easier way.
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Dorman makes like 100 different type of Boots. The ones I used were Dorman Universal Boots and they are slip on Boots that are similar to the Astoria Flex Boots but use a narrower and differen type of Clamp.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Okay I looked today to refresh my memory I replaced both my inner joints with the speedi-boot 03606 it is a boot that is bolted together I have never used any that are glued I have had very good results with the bolted ones use them on a variety of cars. What you have to do 1st off is measure the axle diameter on both ends you have to cover and find one that exactly or closely fits. The m.b. inner joint measures 70mm×26mm the 03606 measures 75mm×24mm so you see it was a little big on one end and little small on other I made it fit and both are holding up couple of yrs. now. I used grease inside. Maybe if enough people would write the company dorman they would start making an exact fit for the m.b.s as Im sure they would sell a lot of them with all these old cars on the road yet. I m sure not everyone would not like the repair I made that is your choice it worked for me and saved me a lot in time and money. The main thing with the axle joints is to keep them protected and lubed.
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Thought about rebooting. $80 for boots. Local shop will rebuild for $85 each. Found out where they send them. Got in touch. $55 each. Rebuilding my actual axles with quality parts, and a warranty. For $110.
Set it and forget it. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Yuke, the Dorman split boot is a great resource!
I am looking for a split boot for my VW Jetta but the Dorman catalog does not show one being available so I have to go through the exercise of measuring and choosing one that is close enough to fit. Do you have the dimensions of the CV joint diameters for W123? Does the 03606 split boot fit tight or loose? Here is a list of all their split boots. Note they have bolted and solvent welded. Has anyone used their solvent welded boots and provide some comments? BTW I chatted with Dorman tech support and the reason 03606 is not in their catalog anymore is because it's been replaced by 03608. If you click on view details/specifications you will see the dimensions. Dorman Products - Search Results
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Another option, at least here. There's a shop that does these rebuilds (reboot, clean and inspect, and replace stuff if anything needs replacing, like a bad ball or something). If you pull the axles and bring them in it's reasonable though it's been a LONG time since I had one done and the number doesn't come to mind (maybe $45? but not sure). Anyhow, I'd look for a rebuilder, not some shop that does one from time to time. These guys do scores of them every day and know all the tricks. Make sure that they know that you'll keep the car forever and they'll install the best parts available. If it's something you're putting together to sell 5 years is enough!
Dan |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|