Axle failure...repairable or not? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

azitizz · #1 12-26-2014, 11:29 AM

On my 1985 300TD w123 Ive been getting this clunking noise that speeds up with speed and sometimes dissapears when no torque is being applied (coasting), and couldnt figure it out till yesterday when I got my brother to step on and off the gas with the car jacked up so see whats going on when the wheels turn...

It looks as if the rear right axle is coming apart at the place where the arrow is pointing.... (picture is not of actual axle, just for reference). Is this repairable? And if so is it worth it? Ive seen some axles for over $600 and other for just over $100.

What do other think?

vstech · #2 12-26-2014, 11:40 AM

I do not believe you can save the axle if it's coming apart by the hub...

lemme know if you need one shipped to you.

is yours like the one in the picture? does it have bolts on the hub closest to the differential?

ROLLGUY · #3 12-26-2014, 11:42 AM

I would just replace it if I were in your position. There are plenty of sources around for new/rebuilt axles for around $100 each. I just replaced both on a friends car, and he got them for around $100 each delivered with no core. They were also the annular type, and are the type to get for many reasons. The best reason, is that the diff does not need to be opened up to replace the axle or boots. The axle is bolted to a flange that stays in the diff. Just unbolt the axle from the flange to re-boot or replace. Yes they are probably made in China (like most everything nowadays), but the quality seems to be good.

vstech · #4 12-26-2014, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I would just replace it if I were in your position. There are plenty of sources around for new/rebuilt axles for around $100 each. I just replaced both on a friends car, and he got them for around $100 each delivered with no core. They were also the annular type, and are the type to get for many reasons. The best reason, is that the diff does not need to be opened up to replace the axle or boots. The axle is bolted to a flange that stays in the diff. Just unbolt the axle from the flange to re-boot or replace. Yes they are probably made in China (like most everything nowadays), but the quality seems to be good.

so, you think the China made axles have improved in quality? I may order one and inspect it.
do you know what vendor was used? and what brand he got?
all the McParts places around here have them for around 80, but they are very poorly made, and the spacers on the hub do not fit.

mach4 · #5 12-26-2014, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I would just replace it if I were in your position. There are plenty of sources around for new/rebuilt axles for around $100 each. I just replaced both on a friends car, and he got them for around $100 each delivered with no core. They were also the annular type, and are the type to get for many reasons. The best reason, is that the diff does not need to be opened up to replace the axle or boots. The axle is bolted to a flange that stays in the diff. Just unbolt the axle from the flange to re-boot or replace. Yes they are probably made in China (like most everything nowadays), but the quality seems to be good.

An axle replace project is coming up for me - nothing leaking yet and no noises, just know I'm living on borrowed time. I'd love to be able to go with the annular axles if the price was right and the quality decent. Can you reference the source for the axles? Being able to replace axles without opening the diff in the future would make them almost a maintenance item.

ROLLGUY · #6 12-26-2014, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

so, you think the China made axles have improved in quality? I may order one and inspect it.
do you know what vendor was used? and what brand he got?
all the McParts places around here have them for around 80, but they are very poorly made, and the spacers on the hub do not fit.

I just talked to my friend, and he is out of town. He will send me the link (where he bought the axles from) on Sunday. The previous axle he bought was starting to leak out of the boot, and he knows it was in fact made in China. The annular set he got looks to be very good quality, but only time will tell. Either way, being annular, they will be much easier to deal with should the need arise (hopefully not very soon). One thing I did notice, the axle shaft itself looked used (clean, but old flaking paint on it). The rest of the parts (especially the annular joints) looked to be new, so it is possible that only the axle was used. They were sold outright with no core charge, and sent UPS.

Carpenterman · #7 12-26-2014, 10:18 PM

My biggest problem with the Chinese axles was not the construction or fitment--it was the poor quality of the rubber boots.

Diesel911 · #8 12-26-2014, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I would just replace it if I were in your position. There are plenty of sources around for new/rebuilt axles for around $100 each. I just replaced both on a friends car, and he got them for around $100 each delivered with no core. They were also the annular type, and are the type to get for many reasons. The best reason, is that the diff does not need to be opened up to replace the axle or boots. The axle is bolted to a flange that stays in the diff. Just unbolt the axle from the flange to re-boot or replace. Yes they are probably made in China (like most everything nowadays), but the quality seems to be good.

On those axles People have reported that within a Month or 2 the Bolts that hold the annular section start to come loose.
You can remove the Bolts one at a time and make sure the threads are degreased and dry and apply Loctite to the Threads and re-install the Bolts.
I don't remember what is in the below thread:
IMPORETED AXLE PROBLEMS
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=262186

mach4 · #9 12-26-2014, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

On those axles People have reported that within a Month or 2 the Bolts that hold the annular section start to come loose.
You can remove the Bolts one at a time and make sure the threads are degreased and dry and apply Loctite to the Threads and re-install the Bolts.

Or drill the bolts and use safety wire like they do on critical aircraft components. HF has the safety wire pliers and stainless wire for not much spend. That's what I did on my AC compressor

azitizz · #10 12-27-2014, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I do not believe you can save the axle if it's coming apart by the hub...

lemme know if you need one shipped to you.

is yours like the one in the picture? does it have bolts on the hub closest to the differential?

Yes its one of the Annular styles. I doubt its original. Ive replaced the boots on it once already.

Lots of answers here... Ill probably go for the $100 one. Hopefully theyll stand up to a few years of good use.

sleepstar · #11 12-27-2014, 11:45 PM

for what its worth the indy i go to who has been around these cars for 30+ years says the new ones made in china are now acceptable to use...

Diesel911 · #12 12-27-2014, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Or drill the bolts and use safety wire like they do on critical aircraft components. HF has the safety wire pliers and stainless wire for not much spend. That's what I did on my AC compressor

That would certainly work.

From what I have read Loctite Works.

When I worked at the Naval Shipyard the Packard Diesels used Bolts and Castellated (spelling?)Nuts with drilled Studs that use the Safety Wire. Even the Nuts and Studs on the Water Pumps had them.
Every one had the special Safety Wire Pliers in their Tool Boxes to do the twisting with.

I also occasionaly use another product called Vibratite that they also used at the Ship Yard. It is expensive so I only use it on special things. You apply it to the Threads and let it cure for about 30 minutes and it forms sort of a rubberized webing in the threads.

It not only prevents the Bolt from vibrating out it also seals the threads. You can also remove the Bolts and re-assemble them 3 times without having to recoat the threads.

while the thread that you apply the stuff to need to be degreased I belive it is OK if the hole the Bolt threads into is has clean Oil on them.

With Loctite you are better off if both Bolt and hole threads are degreased and dry.

The Vibritite also can take more heat then the Loctite but neither can be used on the Exhaust System.

azitizz · #13 01-01-2015, 02:27 PM

I recieved my axle yesterday and opened it today. They sent the wrong one... Non-Annular, so I would have to take apart the differential, and still Im not sure it would fit... In the meantime I have to delay using the car a little more, and until they sort out why the wrong part was sent (New years day...) Im tryng to decide if I should go ahead and order from a different brand to get things moving faster...

What do others think:
Here on this website, autopartsway(dot)ca (ive ordered from them quite a bit with satisfactory results, except for this screw-up) they say that an EMPI annular axle is listed at $698 going for $162... seems pretty extreme mark-down, but I ordered it simply because I recognized the brand as one I've used before and had no problems with yet... (axle boots).

The other brand from the same distributor is FEQ and is listed at $167 and is going for $143... seems like a more likely discount... But would the quality differ does anyone think. I personally think the whole dicounted-list-price thing on these websited is a load of crap, but does anyone else know if that price really would be likely for am EMPI annular axle assembly?

I dont see them sold on other online parts distributors, even pellicanparts. (And the place Im ordering from ships UPS in a few days no duty or tax or cross border hassles...)

I can wait for them to sort it out and see if they can actually send the right part or just order one now hoping its as good a quality (the FEQ) what doe others think...
Thanks and happy new year to you all...

barry12345 · #14 01-01-2015, 02:56 PM

Only one aftermarket manufacturer as far as I am aware and it is Chinese. Expect all different name labels by people marketing them. I have felt that the original cv joints where really top quality on these cars in the eighties.

They used heavy oil as the lubricant. As long as that was present or renewed periodically. With the boots also kept good or replaced as they started to look bad.

Then if the axles where rotated side to side on reinstallation. The original cv joints would probably then last well beyond the actual lifespan of the car.

I wondered why some replacements used grease as a lubricant. Then I thought if a boot leaked there was a greater chance of some thickened grease remaining in the joint. Heavy oil would all leave.

Guest987 · #15 01-01-2015, 08:04 PM

I checked with CVJ on the cost of the axles. I found it is 159.00 for each side. Then there is a core of 75.00 ea. If you want them to do your own axles it is an additional 10.00 each, or 169.00 per side. Then you have have freight in the amount of 50.00 each way. You can, also, have new silicone boots in the deal for an additional 42.59 each per boot. This all equates to 588.00 with the regular boots on the axles, and 759.80 with the silicone booted axles. This ain't cheap, but could be a quality way to go? The axles do have a limited 3 year warranty. You would get the 75.00 ea side back at the end from the core returns. There is no warranty if the axles would be used for off road use, and no warranty on the silicone boots. No, mention of the brand of the standard boots they use on the axles. They mention their dislike of the Chinese axles for issues like bad vibration and pre-mature failures!