Jim B+

I had just the opposite happen to me. I bought a '79 300SD (160,000 miles) that had a few leaks but nothing bad. I started using Castrol Syntec 5W50 and all the leaks dried up and it has been leak free since.

P E H

Mikemover,

So Mike, are you going to send your perfectly good used filters to me? I'll pay the postage.

Do you also change the filter inside the fuel tank every time you change the oil?

How come you don't do the valve adjust yourself? Where else can you make $50 an hour ($100 for a 2 hour job)?

I just checked the valves my '79 300SD at 25,000 miles. I was planning on adjusting them but all the valves were within spec. So if that happens to you, you are paying the garage $100 to R&R the valve cover.

I'm not cheap, but I'm thrifty.

P E H

I have used synthetic oils exclusively since driving my 1975 240D to Alaska in the late 70's. The only oil leakage problem I experienced was at the rear crank seal, which causes clutch chatter and generally makes a mess on the road where I park, and that was only bad in the summer months when it got warm. I have a similar problem with the 1982 240D, although not the same degree of clutch chatter. The use of Mobil Delvac 1 and keeping the oil level half way between the low and full marks on the dipstick seem to have curbed this problem significantly in recent months.

I used synthetics (Mobil 1 15W-50, Red Line 5W-50 (I think, it has been a while) and Mobil 1 0W-40 now, with an occasional Castrol Syntech 5W-50 change mixed in over the years) exclusively on my 1986 190E 2.3-16 which has 206,000 miles on it and we just took the head off to rebuild it (burned exhaust valve). The insides were near new, no metal ridge at the top of the piston stroke on any cylinder and nearly new condition on the cylinder walls (original honing marks visible). I had some difficulty with the oil cap for a while, but got a new one and the leakage went away. Other than that, no actual leaks that dripped anywhere.

So, in the long run the added cost seems to be worth it for the life of the engine, and the myth of leaks sounds like a machine with a bad gasket or some latent seal defect will leak regardless of oil selection to me.

By the way, it sounds like you got a gem of an example of the W123 cars. Good luck and may you enjoy the car for many miles. Jim

I do a lot of DIY stuff, but the valve adjustment is just not something I enjoy doing, and I trust my shop to do it right, so I consider it worth the $70 to have them do it. And no, they don't charge me for what doesn't need to be done. I've had a lot of work done there, and have referred them a few customers, so they treat me well. :)

I don't know about the main fuel filter, but I've never removed a prefilter from my car that I would want anyone to reuse...they always have particles and varying amounts of "goop" in them, and I certainly wouldn't put it back on my car! I'm glad that you get more life out of yours, but I'm anal about that stuff, so I change them. Maybe it's just that my fuel sources around here are not as good as some... I dunno.


Mike

Mike,

Of course there is crap in the filter. Its there because it didn't go thru the filter and it is only in the tank side of the filter. The filter will block the crap just a well when it has a lot of crap in it up until the point that the very fine dirt particles plug the the tiny holes of the filter paper until the fuel can't pass thru. That's when its time to replace the filter. This point can be determined by loss of power on a hill or hard acceleration. Since a filter replacement is so easy and quick, I always carry spares and usually replace them on the road.

On the engines with the old style hand pump, I can tell whether the primary filter or the secondary filter is plugged.

P E H

Rugger,

I hate to disagree with everyone, but this car could definitely cause you a lot of heartache, especially since you're new to Diesels. It would probably be in your best interest to unload it as quickly as possible. I'd really hate to see you get into something as tempramental as those 240s can be. I'd be willing to help you out from under that burden, just email me and we can work out a deal. Trust me, you'll thank me.

I hope the last post is in jest
 

.

hahaha...that's funny! Nice try, benchracer. I was believing it for a second...

;)
Mike

Benchracer, I appreciate your gracious and magnanimous offer and genuine concern for me. However, at this time, I am determined to suffer whatever consequences may lie ahead.

Again, thank you.

Rugger,

The concern for you is genuine all right. NOW SELL ME THAT DAMN CAR!

To tell you the truth, I never really looked at those 240s until recently. I'd really like to have one now. You're a lucky man, Rugger.

Dear Mr. Rugger,

I hope you weren’t put off with Mr. Benchracer’s manners. His warning had a ring of truth, even though his motives weren’t exactly in your interest.

The 240D engine is a “bored out” 220D engine. I have a 1970 220D and I have my doubts about the 240D since many parts were interchangeable, especially on the early 240D. You may have your own doubts about the 240D reliability, especially so if the car has options.

Unfortunately, my 220D has a waiting list (three in the fourth family generation), so we can’t trade. But, if you are interested, I could pass down the 220D and take the 240D off your hands for a reasonable price. In the meantime, please don’t look at book values or solicit anybody else’s advice until we communicate in an honest and honorable fashion.

Sincerely,
daBenz
(used as many commas and as many three syllable words as I could think of. If this works.…)