Is that the SAME parts list for the CDI? 2008 R320...

Thanks

This thread should be added to the *Stickys* reference list of DIYs atop DD in this Forum @ some point.

Time Saver - Oil Cooler Leak Repair
 

Excellent posting ASTRO...I was a few days ahead of you on my 2009 ML320 w/ 99,800 miles. It was one of those jobs that must be very methodic and you covered it very well. It does take many hours to complete. POLARISRMK remark that it is a 5 hour slam dunk is smokin' somethin'! Good 20- 30 hours or more and half of it is cleaning and thinking it through as a one man job weekend warrior.:)

HELPER HINT: Took my turbo off the same way...but could not access the mounting bolts for the bracket on the reinstall...dropped one and luckily found it. Took a chance and removed the bracket (2 bolts you could not remove) installed mounting bracket first. No blind spot like with turbo in the way. Then installed turbo and the 2 bolts. Much easier. More than likely one of the "tricks" that regular MB techs know! Turbo drops in cleanly also.

Aftermath of Oil Cooler Repair
 

I have run into issues since the repair. Everything seemed to go well. On restart, test run was great. Back to normal or better operation.
Next day, we had to take a 300 mile trip. Weather in the 30s. Mostly highway driving.
- Started up fine
- Almost immediately was in no acccel, "limp mode".
- Temp fine 90C, fluids fine. All connections tight. Rechecked all hook ups.
- Had to keep moving...no passing shifts, very slow accel, loss of speed on climbs.
- MPH readings were up 15 to 20% from prior to repair.

Figured it was the swirl motor flaps were stuck..due to cleaning break after reinstall...all was good going in.
Paddle shift helped a bit.
Then started start issue 2 days later. Took 5 tries to start for 3 days. Now 3 tries.
And the Temp Alert has come on, but reads as 90C on the dash reader.
I have not had the luxury of stopping since this the only car we have on the road. Gas mileage is running way better up to 28 MPH.

Checked Fault Codes and found the following.

P2005 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open...both Banks
P2015 Intake Manifold Runner Control Sensor Switch Ckt Range/ Perf B1
P0670 Glow Plug Module Control Circuit Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure
P010A & C Mass or Vol Air Flow A & B Circuit Low Input
P0112 Intake Air Temp Sens Circuit Low Input
P0489 Exhaust Gas Recirc Cont Circuit Low
P0031 Heated Oxy Sens Htr Cont Circ Low Bank 1
P0245 Turbo Wastgate A Solenoid Low
P2463 Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction Soot Accum.
P2031 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circ Bk 1 Sensor 2

I have rechecked all connections. Cleared Fault Codes and need to reread today. Sorry for long post. Short of heading to the dealer for an expensive testing session...any thoughts what I &$^$ up on this.

Thanks.:confused::confused:

Clear fault codes and try again.

Sorry guys I'll try to get the last page in, delays due to school started and been really busy lately.

Did you breaks the swirl flap linkage on the intake manifold, or the plastic ball socket that attaches from linkage to the swirl flap motor? It dose sound like the exhaust gas is constantly flowing into the intake manifold runners, how about the EGR valve that sits on the driver side or left side of the intake manifold did you remove that?

Will do that today. Going to do the diode bypass of the swirl motor today, also.

Missed your reply Ascros....I replaced the ball sockets and they were good when installed. Will be checking them again today before I do the diode bypass. Did not remove the EGR. Kept that intact and just remove hoses to do the work. I threw some Rotella T 15W40 (4 qts or so) in when I refilled. Had it sitting from my 87 300D T change. Noticed it is the 282.31 spec. NOT 292.51 or 52. Mat have caused some accumulation on sensors? So will be changing oil today also to Mobil 1 0W40 Euro. Back to the old standby.

Advice on OM642 Oil Cooler gaskets
 

I just bought a 2007 E320 Bluetek. It's in mint condition (the proverbial schoolteacher car) and has just 70K on it.

I've been reading about the oil cooler gaskets and am wondering if they fail as a result of time or use. As with Actros617 I don't have a heated garage and would not like to do this job just now. As the car has only 70K, one might suspect I have some time to go before the failure, but if it happens after seven years, then I better get on it.

Also, it is unclear to me whether the failure is catastrophic, i.e., shuts down the vehicle either by COMAND or by being unable to keep enough oil in it to run. Descriptions seem to imply oil streams out pretty rapidly, but no one seems to have had to have the vehicle towed for the failure.

The book time to do the job is just under 10 hours. How accurate is that?

Oil Cooler in the Vee
 

Good point on the question of "why did they put the oil cooler in the vee"? Ford did the same thing with their 6.0 International diesel. They did not have a leak issue, they had a coolant side clog issue which would snowball and cause EGR cooler failure which then caused head gasket failure. No clue why they both don't place these somewhere external. Of course I guess you could say that about half the parts on the engine which would then require an engine compartment of a mid 70's Cadillac.

Nice write up! Love it.
Word of caution though about all that carbon in your engine-change your fuel supply or start running lots of fuel conditioners to bring it up to spec. I removed my egr valve at similar mileage (120k) and it is still whistle clean, just a black coating that wiped off with a rag no deposits anywhere. I run 47-48 cetane fuel and lots of conditioners, never push a cold engine and generally take it easy on it (no Italian tune ups) but I tow with it about once a month (5X10 double axle, or car on tow dolly-significant weight). Only highway driving. I would also change the oil more often, I am doing 6-7k intervals to help prevent the oil cooler seals from blowing out and changing air filters often to keep things breathing well. It seems clogged air filters mean more drag on the crankcase breathing system and internal pressure, there was good write up on it on another forum. Running the oil long means more blow by/fumes too, and mixing with the egr soot and carboning up.

Damnit! I just picked these up when i was there last as they were on sale and looked decent. Glad i didn't use them yet. Thanks for the heads up guys.

Wow! Nice write up Actros617 and nice work. Thank you. How hard is it to change the glow plugs on that engine? it must not be very hard. I would have been tempted to pull them all and replace while everything was off and I was staring at their brittle little plugs.

Replacing the glow plugs are tricky because there's a chance of shearing off the glow plugs because its seized in the block, according to MB service manual it reccomend you to warm up the engine to operating temp and remove glow plug so it wont break and leave the glow plug tip in the head, if the it break off you have to extract it ie tap into the glow plug tip using an extractor, or remove the cylinder head to remove it.

Finale

So this picture is here to illustrate whats going to be installed.

http://i.imgur.com/ZU0KpIgl.png

Heres the intake manifold replace the O rings, highly important to prevent boost leak
http://i.imgur.com/8PP9NOOl.jpg

Now heres is the EGR attach this end on to the Black pipe (theres a cut out in the middle of the black pipe you cant miss it)theres also a rubber gasket on the EGR pipe replace to preven boots leak, 3 bolts holding on it 15 nmhttp://i.imgur.com/4Apkxqil.jpg

Triangle end goes into this black pipe
http://i.imgur.com/pIuaKwtl.jpg

now that you have the EGR pipe attached (simulated EGR image) on to the replace the gasket as shown to prevent boost leak pipe, then take charged air pipe to intake manifold intercooler have to push in and make sure that the left intake manifold and the EGR pipe are seated properly and flushed, theres only 3 bolts holding on the intake manifold torque to 20nm
http://i.imgur.com/A7JWQkTl.jpg

Heres the charged air line installed to the intake manifold
http://i.imgur.com/SFW7rDRl.jpg


Next thermostat, replace the gasket on it and attach to the intake manifold torque to 20mn 3 or 4 bolts total dependent on certain model, mine had 4.
http://i.imgur.com/NFxDCY4l.jpg

Next install the electronic controller for the throttle body it just sits right on top the the charged air hose to intake manifold, connect the connectors,
http://i.imgur.com/laIdo4Kl.jpg

Then install the bracket for the electronic controller for the throttle body, its a clamp style bracket, 2 bolts and 2 nuts 5nm torque
http://i.imgur.com/tdCI0mSl.jpg

Install the resonator pod, im not sure what is that thing dose but it looks like it just covering an extra hole. inspect the o ring on it, and then give it a good push, it should pop right in and 1 bolt to secure to the charge air to intake manifold 5 nm torque
http://i.imgur.com/YBuWb2yl.jpg

Now install the turbo silencer, one end (silvery pipe) attaches to the outlet of the turbo theres a O ring that slides on the turbo outlet, MAKES SURE IT THERES, or you'll make no boost! The other end (see picture) is the silencer, this part attaches to the intercooler, and theres 1 bolt, a very long bolt 10 nm make sure you bolt it down or you'll run the risk of the pipe getting dislodged
http://i.imgur.com/8JADrvrl.jpg

Then attache all your hoses, Intercooler, Coolant, Air intake and the bat wing, air filter and fuel filter
http://i.imgur.com/uf8XfP8l.jpg

Now fill up your car with BLUE Coolant purchased from the dealer, it only comes in concentrate, just get some distilled water from your local supermarket. It will take approximately 2 gallons of coolant.

NOTE some cars with OM642 ie ML and GL uses yellow coolant,
http://i.imgur.com/NGbIuScl.jpg?1

Now that the coolant is filled, its time to start up the car, now since I've removed the fuel rail and fuel filter, its wise to cycle the key 2-4 times so that the fuel filter is primed (you have a electric fuel pump) then try to start it up, now it will take 2-3 start/cranking cycle for the car to actually start up because its purging air and building pressure in the fuel rails and the lines, ones fuel pressure is sufficient the car will fire right up with little to no hiccups.
http://i.imgur.com/QOTLzCWl.jpg

Now that you're finally finished and you've been rewarded with a garage that looks like after a surgery is completed, MESSY!
http://i.imgur.com/Pwyzi5jl.jpg


Final IMPORTANT notes
Check your coolant level, Oil level, Coolant temperature for the next 1 week, and check for leaks, leave all under panel off so you can detect a leak, if you have a lean then you may have to go back in there and find out what hasn't been tighten properly hopefully not the oil cooler :( .