A journey into the the infamous Om642 oil cooler leak! - Page 10 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #**136** 10-10-2017, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chsu74

Is there enough access to replace the swirl motor if the turbo and fuel filter is removed?

Yes I think so. Maybe just the turbo needs to be removed, and the motor taken out towards the rear.

chsu74 · #**137** 10-10-2017, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Yes I think so. Maybe just the turbo needs to be removed, and the motor taken out towards the rear.

Thanks. My oil cooler seals were done at the dealer under warranty but there are no records of the swirl motor being replaced. I have a P2007 code now and think one of the swirl motor arm tab may have broken off or gotten disconnected. Thinking of a short way to get in there.

Removing EGR to get better access for turbo removal may allow me to replace the swirl motor from all the DIY videos and pics..

ROLLGUY · #**138** 10-10-2017, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chsu74

Thanks. My oil cooler seals were done at the dealer under warranty but there are no records of the swirl motor being replaced. I have a P2007 code now and think one of the swirl motor arm tab may have broken off or gotten disconnected. Thinking of a short way to get in there.

Removing EGR to get better access for turbo removal may allow me to replace the swirl motor from all the DIY videos and pics..

Post #106 shows a photo of the turbo removed providing access to the SFM. No need to remove the EGR.

engatwork · #**139** 10-10-2017, 08:42 PM

I've got a customer with an 09 E class Bluetec and she is still on the original oil cooler seals at 135k miles with no leaks. The swirl motor has been replaced though.

ROLLGUY · #**140** 10-10-2017, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

I've got a customer with an 09 E class Bluetec and she is still on the original oil cooler seals at 135k miles with no leaks. The swirl motor has been replaced though.

Could it be that by then the problem was corrected at the factory?

chsu74 · #**141** 10-11-2017, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Could it be that by then the problem was corrected at the factory?

There are still reports of failures in 2013 production engines. Not sure if we can get a straight answer..

https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-x166/684688-engine-oil-cooler-leak.html

iwrock · #**142** 10-12-2017, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Who are you asking?

You (though it just clicked that it's your friend's car).

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Is that the equivalent to Mobil 1 ESP?

It's equivalent to the ESP 0w40/5w40.

The BlueTecs are more stringent in their requirements and call for 0w30/5w30.

engatwork · #**143** 10-12-2017, 07:03 PM

Will Mobil 1 Delvac ESP 5w40 work?

ROLLGUY · #**144** 12-31-2017, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Will Mobil 1 Delvac ESP 5w40 work?

Just saw this. This is exactly what I am using in my '05 CDI and '07 Bluetec from now on. I found it at Pep Boys for about $30 a gallon out the door.

engatwork · #**145** 12-31-2017, 08:00 AM

IIRC when I did find it at Walmart it was right at $25/5 qt jug.

markg612 · #**146** 12-31-2017, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

You (though it just clicked that it's your friend's car).

It's equivalent to the ESP 0w40/5w40.

The BlueTecs are more stringent in their requirements and call for 0w30/5w30.

Sooo--the DPF is the linch pin in the 229.51 oil specification. The oil "additive package" as they say is formulated specifically to work with the DPF. If the xW30 oils are still 229.51, I'd bet the 0W30/5W30 requirement may have come along with later iterations of the OM642s due to improved manufacturing techniques that resulted in tighter tolerances? Viscosity (xWxx) would be about clearances, Additives (229.xx)would be about exhaust treatment. (EGR, DPF, Catalyst).

My two cents.

ROLLGUY · #**147** 12-31-2017, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

IIRC when I did find it at Walmart it was right at $25/5 qt jug.

Gee thanks, now you tell me

MB140300SD · #**148** 12-31-2017, 03:49 PM

So I need to tackle this job on my R320. This car has been sitting in my shop for over a year with a rail pressure too high error and goes into limp mode. I ran thru the test which first pointed to the low pressure pump. Replaced that, same error code. Next thing it said to replace was the fuel valve that sits below the hp pump. Replaced that and still same problem. It looks like its going to be the valve on the rail, which requires rail to be replaced. Anyway, before all this car was leaking oil pretty good. Since its been sitting in the shop there is a very large oil slick under it. Since I am going to have to find a rail and replace it, I guess I should tackle this now. I notice the FCP kit does not say it fits the R320, only E, ML, GL. What would make it not fit the R? Should be the same. Also, is this job done completely top side or does any of the bolts for turbo, exhaust etc have to be done from below?

ROLLGUY · #**149** 12-31-2017, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MB140300SD

So I need to tackle this job on my R320. This car has been sitting in my shop for over a year with a rail pressure too high error and goes into limp mode. I ran thru the test which first pointed to the low pressure pump. Replaced that, same error code. Next thing it said to replace was the fuel valve that sits below the hp pump. Replaced that and still same problem. It looks like its going to be the valve on the rail, which requires rail to be replaced. Anyway, before all this car was leaking oil pretty good. Since its been sitting in the shop there is a very large oil slick under it. Since I am going to have to find a rail and replace it, I guess I should tackle this now. I notice the FCP kit does not say it fits the R320, only E, ML, GL. What would make it not fit the R? Should be the same. Also, is this job done completely top side or does any of the bolts for turbo, exhaust etc have to be done from below?

It is all done from the top side on the E class, so I imagine the R would be the same. The only exception being the encapsulation panels. You will want to remove all of them before starting the job. Some do an oil change while it is apart, just in case any coolant gets in the oil from removing the cooler.

MB140300SD · #**150** 12-31-2017, 06:27 PM

I would imagine this job is going to be a real bear on the R since the back of the engine is up under the firewall a little bit even with that top metal cover removed. I guess I should get under it and see if the oil is coming out of the weep hole before I tear it apart.