A journey into the the infamous Om642 oil cooler leak! - Page 13 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tjts1 · #**181** 02-25-2019, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

I'm not that familiar with the trannies but I'd suspect some of the them are interchangeable. I know the Crossfire uses a MB transmission.

Almost every RWD/AWD Chrysler product for a solid decade used a NAG1 transmission aka 722.6 in MB speak.
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/NAG1-WA580.html

Murkybenz · #**182** 02-25-2019, 01:17 PM

These may help
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0473

https://www.300cforums.com/forums/crd-exhaust-egr/210217-anyone-removed-dpf-p0471-fault-code.html

iwrock · #**183** 02-26-2019, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miatanerd

I replaced the large green seals that go on the intercooler pipes. My air sensor was unplugged so I plugged it. All of the error codes went away. I still have the whistle noise, not sure where else to look. Any help you guys can offer will be appreciated.

Replace the orange seals on the turbo inlet and crank case vent.

rajdude · #**184** 03-02-2019, 04:28 PM

Hello everyone! I just registered to post here.

First of all, THANK YOU all for posting all this information. This is a treasure trove for all DIYers.

I have a 2007 R320 CDI which has the oil cooler leak, among other possible leaks...and issues...maybe also the crankcase seal leak. I am preparing to do this job myself soon. I have created a list of things I need to buy...tools and parts.

I will post here as the days go by.

First a quick question. I had bought the official shop/repair manual from Mercedes dealer, many years back. it comes on a DVD. I have the bootleg WIS also for older MB models (my R320 is not there). Both look almost identical. Does the WIS give me something more?

markg612 · #**185** 03-06-2019, 11:18 AM

The 07 CDIs seem to fall between the cracks, I have an 07 W164 manual that does NOT list the CDI, HOWEVER, my 2005 W211 manual covers the engine, so between the two, I was able to find every bit of info I needed for the job.

I would HIGHlY recommend paying the $75 annual subscription to the EPC, it is the backbone of every repair I've done that required more than a ratchet and drip pan.

Lastly, I would DOUBLY ensure the leak is not your Breather or Turbo Seal. If you live in a place that isn't overrun with jackasses like we have here in CA at the Air Recourses Board that ban the use of naphtha, THOROUGHLY hot pressure wash, and then rinse the valley and rear of the engine with naphtha. Drive it for a week, and then with a very focused flashlight, carefully look at the right front of the engine, study it for a bit, and you will see that you can see back under the intake and see the edge of the oil cooler. YES! If you have oil seeping at the edge, then dig in, but lf there is a drip trail from above, your leak is breather and turbo seal, and YES it will present like a crank seal leak. NAPHTHA! It evaporates completely dry, especially when coaxed with compressed air or a leaf blower. A solvent sprayer and a gallon of naphtha will leave the engine squeaky clean.

These guys are an interesting source for OEM manuals too!

https://www.emanualonline.com/shopping_cart.php

Miatanerd · #**186** 03-11-2019, 02:52 PM

I have PCS'ed to Germany with 2008 GL 320 and now I can't get it to pass inspection because of slow oil leak. Germany's don't like cars that leak oil.

Looks like my oil cooler leaks have ended, but I still see 1-3 drops oil leaks around the bell housing. Do you guys think it's coming from rear main seal? I hope it's something simple where I don't have to spend 6-7 hours of labor fixing it. The car has 134k miles on it now.

Miatanerd · #**187** 03-11-2019, 02:57 PM

If you have the same problems as me. Here is what I did with help from other members:

Solution 1.) My whistle noise went away after replacing large green o-rings
Solution 2.) I had to clean the back pressure sensor because my engine would go into limp mode. Error codes was related to boost/turbo. I cleaned the back pressure sensor with sea form. Problem went away! Saved hundreds of dollars on labor and parts.

ROLLGUY · #**188** 03-12-2019, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miatanerd

I have PCS'ed to Germany with 2008 GL 320 and now I can't get it to pass inspection because of slow oil leak. Germany's don't like cars that leak oil.

Looks like my oil cooler leaks have ended, but I still see 1-3 drops oil leaks around the bell housing. Do you guys think it's coming from rear main seal? I hope it's something simple where I don't have to spend 6-7 hours of labor fixing it. The car has 134k miles on it now.

Look at the second photo in the first post of this thread. What may seem to be a leak from the rear main seal, is most likely oil dripping out of the drain hole leading to the valley of the engine block where the oil cooler resides. If you have to pass inspection, plug up the hole and clean the area real good right before getting it inspected. That may buy you some time to get it fixed correctly.

Miatanerd · #**189** 03-13-2019, 02:50 AM

How can my oil cooler leak if I just finish doing this job with new seals? I hope it’s not my oil cooler seals because I spend 16 hours on this job.

Miatanerd · #**190** 03-13-2019, 03:02 AM

I am not getting 1/8 of a cup per min of oil leaking. I am getting one or two drops of oil leaking. After I park the car. I will put it on the lift today at work and check again. I hope it’s not my oil cooler if it is then I will cry. This job was painful for me, I am sure 2nd time I do it will be easier, but it takes hours to do it.

ROLLGUY · #**191** 03-13-2019, 10:24 AM

It may be residual oil, or from other leaker's above (turbo inlet seal, crankcase vent valve etc).

jay_bob · #**192** 03-13-2019, 11:36 PM

It did take about a week for all the residual oil to work its way out after I replaced my seals.

benzevo124 · #**193** 03-14-2019, 09:57 AM

Thanks for the OP for the write up and pictures.
I have a 07 GL 320 with 230K miles. Just finished the job last week, I still had the orange oil cooler seal. It took me 2 full days and 3-4 afternoons to button up. I had a lot of build up on the intake runners, I probably spent 8 hours cleaning the intake. I also did a port matching on it, couldn't resist lol. All the drain holes were clogged up with sludge on mine and the oil was overflowing on the top of the transmission. I did blew out the holes while in there but I couldn't really clean out off the engine because of freezing temps outside. So now I'm in the same boat as Miatanerd it's still dripping a little, 1-2 drops a day. I know for a fact that my crank case vent is shot, I don't think that spits out that much oil or could it?

Miatanerd · #**194** 03-20-2019, 04:37 AM

I inspected the 2nd photo (oil dripping out of the drain hole leading to the valley) on page one, no oil. I did plug it up to see if my small oil leak would stop, but it didn't. I removed the plastic cover over the transmission bell housing and i saw oil inside of it. I sealed the inside of the bell housing (flex seal) so the oil would stop leaking so I can pass German inspection, which it did. Now it's leaking again because flex seal couldn't hold it off for too long. I did inspect inlet intake (turbo inlet seal, crankcase vent valve and no oil.

I can inspect the turbo area for leaks, but I would think if it was leaking around the turbo return it was burn off because it's so hot around that area.

I think it's my rear main seal.... Do rear main seal last a long time ? My GL has 138k miles.

Miatanerd · #**195** 03-21-2019, 04:07 AM

There is another guy named (catalind) on the forum with the same problem but I don't see any solution how he fixed it. A journey into the the infamous Om642 oil cooler leak! . I have the leak in the same place as him.