Crankcase Full Of Fuel. 1991 350SDL - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ah-kay · #46 01-12-2015, 11:57 AM

I agree with whunter. It seems the OP did not have baseline before started working on it. Cars with bent rod will run and run well. It may be more smoke or use oil but will drive and run nonetheless. Try to get the car back to what it was and go from there.

funola · #47 01-12-2015, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

...................Cars with bent rod will run and run well. It may be more smoke or use oil but will drive and run nonetheless. Try to get the car back to what it was and go from there.

Are you contradicting yourself? In one sentence you say it will run well, in the next it will run with more smoke and use oil. Which is it? Is this from personal experience? I have no personal experience with bent rods but have read of many bent rod stories where the bent rods are replaced to make the engine run well again.

ah-kay · #48 01-12-2015, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Are you contradicting yourself? In one sentence you say it will run well, in the next it will run with more smoke and use oil. Which is it? Is this from personal experience? I have no personal experience with bent rods but have read of many bent rod stories where the bent rods are replaced to make the engine run well again.

I have seen a w140 ran. It smokes a lot but will get you from a to b. The car in question cannot get you from a to b if I understand correctly. OP doesn't know what he had before he spent time and money on it. This is not the right approach on a 20+ year old Mbz. Step back and evaluate the options before spending money on a money pit again. This is what I am advising, no more and no less.

Squiggle Dog · #49 01-12-2015, 03:51 PM

As soon as I rebuild the lift pump (not expensive), I should be able to see if/how well the engine runs, and if I am still getting any fuel into the crankcase.

The car was driven from Minnesota to Arizona here. It ran well during that time except there was sometimes little throttle response when the engine was cold, but it was fine when the engine was warm.

It was parked for a few weeks and then I took it in for an emissions test so it could be registered. I noticed that the oil level was a bit over the MAX line, but not a whole lot. It took a lot of cranking for the engine to run at all. Throttle response was very delayed. After the engine was warmed up, it would take holding the throttle to the floor for several seconds before the engine speed would increase at all. It would cruise fine at a steady speed, however.

It passed the emissions test and the car was parked for a few months. I figured that the cause of the poor throttle response was due to the fuel hoses which were all leaking, as well as possible clogged filters. I noticed that the oil level was about an inch above the MAX line, but thought it was just because the engine had been parked so long and every bit of oil had drained back into the pan.

In the meantime, I removed the injectors and did wet and dry compression tests to determine if the engine was worth putting money into. It seemed to pass. So I drained and cleaned the fuel tank, as well as cleaned the tank screen. I replaced all fuel hoses and filters. While the injectors were out, I looked at the glow plugs and noticed that only 3 of 6 were working. So, I replaced all of the glow plugs (with afterglow-rated ones) but then they suddenly stopped working and the relay started buzzing and looked like it was melted. So I replaced the relay as well as the wire harness and sensor with the 2-prong type because the engine is 3.0 out of a 1987 300D and I wanted to go back to the afterglow system the 350SDL originally had.

The intake manifold has to come out to remove the glow plugs, so I removed it and soaked it in biodiesel to remove the carbon that was nearly clogging all of the ports (yes, I reamed the glow plug holes, too).

So I cleaned the tank, replaced filters and hoses, replaced glow plugs, cleaned the intake manifold, and attempted to run a diesel purge in order to hopefully sort out the problem with very little money (but lots of time, unfortunately). But, it didn't help and the engine hydrolocked. Then I found out that crankcase now had 2.5 extra gallons worth of fuel in it!

At least the mystery seems to be solved, but I'll know more after the lift pump is rebuilt. I'm just doing things step-by-step.

My roommate's 1992 Mercury Capri has been wearing out and seemed to be on its last legs. Recently it broke the timing belt, but I was able to replace it. It also does not have working air conditioning and isn't a very well-made or easy car to work on. Parts are scarce, as well.

My roommate is a fan of Mercedes, especially the W126, and he wanted one in white, but they are all gas-guzzlers except for the diesels. I had the opportunity to get this one for free, and it even has working air conditioning (converted to R134A and with a parallel-flow condenser, no less). I figured it would be a good car for him, especially since it's made multiple Minnesota-to-Arizona trips.

But, it's needing typical old-car maintenance and I'm hoping I can sort it out before it gets really hot here in Phoenix. I'm sure he'd love to be driving his 1-2 hour commute in a comfortable car that has air conditioning.

I put in one of those Sanden brackets from ROLLGUY in my 300SD and am slowly working on getting my air conditioning functional. Creeping through heavy traffic on a 118F day is no fun without it.

whunter · #50 01-13-2015, 01:10 AM

Just in case your lift pump is junk, here is a good used one, make an offer.

Fuel Pump W140 Mercedes 300SD OM603 OM603 971 MB P N 0440007018 | eBay

.

Squiggle Dog · #51 01-29-2015, 08:59 AM

I rebuilt the lift pump with the special O-rings that had to come from Germany (one cost $10 by itself). The engine started right up and idles well. There is immediate throttle response. I ran more diesel purge through the system then hooked up the hoses back to the tank and put some fuel in the tank.

So, the engine starts up and runs. I am SO happy. Once the vehicle is roadworthy, we'll see how oil consumption is.

Maxbumpo · #52 01-29-2015, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

So, the engine starts up and runs. I am SO happy. Once the vehicle is roadworthy, we'll see how oil consumption is.

Great job.

I'm concerned that the hydro-lock event has bent a rod or two.

Squiggle Dog · #53 07-19-2015, 03:44 PM

I'm not done with this yet. The engine seemed to be running fine after rebuilding the lift pump, but it would smoke grey smoke. We took the car for a drive around the block, and it was spewing grey/black smoke like a freight train.

So then we had the injectors rebuilt. I checked the engine oil level, and it looked fine. After bleeding the fuel system, I went to start it. BLAM! Fuel shot out of the intake manifold seams and soaked the right fender. But, it was running. Still smoking just as bad, though.

Then after I shut down the engine, I waited for a while and checked the oil. The oil level was way too high again, and watered down. It smells like fuel, so it's STILL getting into the crankcase!

At this point, we have to decide if it's a lost cause. I got this car for my friend because his daily driver (a 1992 Mercury Capri) was on its last legs and now the transmission is completely dead. He's currently driving a $400 1965 Ford station wagon 70 miles a day, which is costing him $60 a week in gas and is in questionable mechanical condition.

But, this 350SDL has no reverse, is in need of brakes, has bald tires, the air conditioning no longer blows cold (and we live in Phoenix, Arizona), and now it may be in need of an injection pump. I think it's going to be too expensive to continue on with the project.

I'm guess it's probably a bad injection pump since it's overfueling even with rebuilt injectors, and getting fuel into the engine oil, even with a rebuilt lift pump and good, even compression numbers.

The other part of the story is that I really don't have time to work on the car anymore. I work 7 days a week most of the time and my day usually consists of waking up dead tired, going to work, then coming home and going straight to sleep. Not to mention my own car needs repairs.

So, replacing an injection pump really isn't something I have time for at this point. I wish it was an easy fix, but I think that at the very least, it's a bad injection pump. At worst, a bad engine.

Maxbumpo · #54 07-20-2015, 02:37 PM

I wish I were closer, I'd buy this car from you. Hopefully it will end up with someone who can keep it alive.

I know you said that time is an issue, but I recently purchased a used injection pump from our local LKQ for $50 or so. Removal and installation will take a full day or longer if you're not experienced. Intake manifold will need to come off, as well as the vacuum pump (gaskets). Perhaps you can store the car for little or no cost until a few months down the road when you have time? AC sounds like it doesn't need much to get it going again, figure out the leak and recharge and replenish lost oil and that should be good. Could be that either a hose is leaking or the condenser is leaking, may be as simple as an o-ring or a seal on the compressor.

BillGrissom · #55 07-20-2015, 07:03 PM

Not enough time is endemic. Still, too many people give up on an engine or the whole car when it is basically fine. If the engine passes a compression check it is usually sound and just needs external components replaced.

courtney · #56 07-21-2015, 02:30 AM

i am in tucson and do not need another car
but if you were giving it away i would come get it with my flatbed

maybe my mechanic would be interested in it for cheap if you guys decide to sell....
pretty sure he could fix it

if it just needs the ip hate to see it get junked, guessing the car is in decent shape or you would not have tried to fix it in the first place...

sorry you did so much work on it and it still is not right, that is terribly frustrating

funola · #57 07-21-2015, 09:33 AM

Quote: """""So then we had the injectors rebuilt. I checked the engine oil level, and it looked fine. After bleeding the fuel system, I went to start it. BLAM! Fuel shot out of the intake manifold seams and soaked the right fender. But, it was running. Still smoking just as bad, though."
.................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................................... .................................................................................
"I'm guess it's probably a bad injection pump since it's overfueling even with rebuilt injectors, and getting fuel into the engine oil, even with a rebuilt lift pump and good, even compression numbers."""""

How long did you run the engine for after injector rebuild? minutes? hours? I can't see how even with IP over fueling, it can dump that much fuel into the crank case running for a short period of time. IIRCC the lift pump was bypassed and an electric pump was put in it's place by the PO. That means that lift pump was running w/o fuel going through it (lack of lubrication) and was trashed. It is probably still leaking fuel into the crank case with the new o-rings you put in. Easy to say now but should have bought a good used lift pump instead of rebuilding the trashed one.

Was the fuel gauge working? Losing 2.5 gal of fuel into the crank case would have shown up on the gauge. Too bad with all the warning signs: black oil coming out of crank seals, oil coming out of the dipstick, valve cover filled with oil, the engine was still ran till it seized. I am surprised it did not run away fueling through the rings.

I am not sure if the compression test that was done is meaningful with oil level that high- basically you were doing very wet compression tests. Did the engine sound different when cranking? Did the cranking speed slow down?

Too bad you do not have time to continue working on it. I would like to see a forum member taking it off your hands instead of it going to the crusher.

dude99 · #58 07-21-2015, 11:00 AM

I just rescanned this thread. A quick question. Did the crankcase fill with fuel before or after you rebuilt and started using the factory lift pump again? I'm wondering if it might be worth while just to switch back to the electric one that was on the car before. It would be a cheap solution if the lift pump was still the source of the diesel in the crankcase.

Squiggle Dog · #59 07-21-2015, 02:05 PM

The OM603 engine seems to be non-existent in the wrecking yards. I don't think I have ever seen one in the many years I have been going to them.

Storage isn't an issue as the car is parked behind the gate in the RV driveway.

Someone converted the air conditioning to R134a. It even has a parallel-flow condenser which looks 100% factory. But it has the original compressor and hoses.

I really want a part-time job so I have time to do things. The job I have was supposed to be 20 hours a week, but it ended up being about 70 hours per week (with no overtime pay) and I didn't get my first day off until after 4 months, when I got one day off, followed by 2 more months of work before I could get 2 days off.

My friend has way too much money (and I have too much time) invested in this car to give it away.

The car seemed to run okay when we got it, but was behind on maintenance. The top of the injection pump was leaking, though, and the throttle response was getting worse and worse. It had just been driven to Arizona from Minnesota.

I replaced the delivery valve washers and O-rings, then replaced the glow plugs and intake manifold gasket. I also cleaned the injectors. That's when all the trouble started.

It was a rusty car, but we replaced the rotten front fenders and welded in a new rocker panel. The interior is really nice and the paint is decent. It's got CLK wheels, too.

I've been doing this work to help my friend out with his transportation situation, but am not making any real progress on the car and it's eaten up a lot of my time.

Squiggle Dog · #60 07-21-2015, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

How long did you run the engine for after injector rebuild? minutes? hours? I can't see how even with IP over fueling, it can dump that much fuel into the crank case running for a short period of time. IIRCC the lift pump was bypassed and an electric pump was put in it's place by the PO. That means that lift pump was running w/o fuel going through it (lack of lubrication) and was trashed. It is probably still leaking fuel into the crank case with the new o-rings you put in. Easy to say now but should have bought a good used lift pump instead of rebuilding the trashed one.

Was the fuel gauge working? Losing 2.5 gal of fuel into the crank case would have shown up on the gauge. Too bad with all the warning signs: black oil coming out of crank seals, oil coming out of the dipstick, valve cover filled with oil, the engine was still ran till it seized. I am surprised it did not run away fueling through the rings.

I am not sure if the compression test that was done is meaningful with oil level that high- basically you were doing very wet compression tests. Did the engine sound different when cranking? Did the cranking speed slow down?

Too bad you do not have time to continue working on it. I would like to see a forum member taking it off your hands instead of it going to the crusher.

I ran the engine for about 10 minutes after the injector rebuild. The lift pump looked okay, but I imagine it could be worn out from no lubrication since it was not connected while the electric pump was being used. I no longer have the electric pump in my possession.

The fuel gauge works, but it's been near empty this whole time because there hasn't been a whole lot of fuel in the tank.

When I did the compression test, I don't think the oil level was very high at all.