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#31
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If you still have cruise control issues after replacing the fuse, you may want to replace all with copper ones, the amplifier under the dash is the usual culprit.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#32
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Good to know. I pulled my assortment of spare fuses out of my 911 last night (prepping to be picked up today ) and will get the missing one replaced this afternoon.
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#33
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Quote:
What's my bumper trim color code? Look for the number on the lower left on the stamped plate on the core support.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#34
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Wanted to update this thread a little bit:
I've had the car now for two weeks. The following are my impressions and findings as of now, having had a little more than 1,000 miles in it. I'd been driving it to and from work, and all around town for work until this last Thursday. Drove fine in the morning/early afternoon. Went to leave the office early and the car wouldn't hold idle. It started and ran rough, like it was very cold. I managed to get the car from behind my building to the front so I could have it towed to an indy 2 miles from me. Turned out to be a clogged fuel filter, which is what I suspected. Swapped out and running like a top again. I'd been meaning to drop by and meet the guy anyway. The tech swore the gauge cluster had been swapped because the car is so nice inside and out. What a nice compliment I've ordered several additional filters as well as some Star Tron after searching here. I'll put together a kit to keep in the trunk and keep them there along with some tools, gloves, rags, extra rubber lines, box of fuses etc. Tonight I finally cleaned the fuel sending unit. Found a ton of algae (I mean fungus! ) in the tube and on the apparatus. Sprayed the whole thing off with brake cleaner, gently rubbed everything with #0000 steel wool, sprayed again, reassembled. Great success! The gauge went from being stuck on 'full' accurately displaying 1/4. Filled up at the nearby station and checked the gauge in 3-4 gallon increments. Works like new. My cigarette lighter is inop. I have just a bit more than zero electrical knowledge. Is this something I should be able to take apart and re-solder? Occasionally the lights behind the upper row of buttons (sunroof, antennae, etc) do not come on. They work when they want to. I'd like them to work all the time. Thoughts? I don't think I'm getting any air to the footwell. Blend door issues? That was a common thing in my 911, not sure how they operate in these cars. Probably a vacuum of some sort... I broke the clips on the first aid kit cover tonight. I'd love to buy a replacement in great shape if anyone has a spare. Can anyone tell me if there's a specific SEM dye color to match the interior? I'd like to refinish the faded sections of the seats. Aside from the fading (not wear) the interior is perfect. Sunroof is inop at the button. I haven't tried opening it manually. I have a theory that old German sunroofs just don't work. Dad's SDL's doesnt, my 911's didn't, the 300D's doesn't. Cruise is still inop. No longer intermittent. How can I diagnose the amp? My intent is to thoroughly clean the car this weekend, weather permitting. That means getting the engine/bay detailed, wheel wells, front and back sides of the wheels, metal trim around the glass, refinish the rubber/plastics of the exterior, etc. Can anyone refer me to a site where I can buy OEM (or OEM style) floor mats? I have rubbers over the carpet but would still prefer the carpet mats as well. I'll likely be taking the car for a four corner alignment and wheel balance after everything is cleaned up. There's the slightest shimmy on the highway and it seems to pull left a tiny bit. I imagine the slight shimmy is a little stronger than it feels due to the couch like nature of the suspension soaking up a lot. I am still returning between 23-25 MPG. I suspect that will increase slightly after the new filters and fuel treatment. I also need to check the air filter, haven't done that yet. Really like this car, and I'm pretty set on keeping it for a while. It'll get much more use than the AMG I picked up a little over a week ago. Last edited by MongooseGA; 01-26-2015 at 11:25 PM. |
#35
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Good work! Knowing WHERE and HOW filters are and changing them is critical on these older vehicles!
FYI it's not algae or fungus you cleaned off the sender... It's asphalt and petroleum distallates that settled out, from age or bacterial action. The actual bugs that cause the mess are microscopic, and impossible to see.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#36
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I'm going to leave the discussion of what the goop is alone. I read plenty of deliberation and debate about it tonight. Bottom line is, I want it out of my fuel system |
#37
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Better use a biocide in the tank if you have not yet. Bacteria will clog your filters and perhaps the sending unit as well. They make little black dots in the clear filter.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#38
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Star Tron going in the tank when I pick it up from the store tonight after work.
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#39
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Sunroof, does it try to open? Any sounds from the motor?
The grease on the slides gunk up over time making operation dodgy at best, esp. in cold weather. Check with these folks concerning the cruise control amp: General Development Laboratories - Home Page Someone on the forum works on these, I believe.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#40
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No power at all when I press the button. I've checked all of the fuses and none seem to be bad.
Last edited by MongooseGA; 01-29-2015 at 10:15 AM. |
#41
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Potential switch issue.
I would think it's possible to remove and clean it.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#42
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Quote:
I did get the exterior of the car washed for the first time yesterday. It's amazing how dirty this color gets without necessarily looking like it. However, it's easy to tell when the paint changes color after one swipe of the mitt! |
#43
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The wood is a veneer attached to a metal plate. They BOTH pry off, do so carefully. Behind that panel you'll see a number of screws, remove them. That panel houses all the switches.
They have a number of fiber optic lines going to them, be careful. It should be obvious once you get that far how to remove just the sunroof switch. You may be able to find an article on how to clean the window switch, I would think it's the same principle.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#44
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Quote:
JamesDean here on the forum rebuilds CC amps. Send him a PM. He did mine and it works great after a year of use, so far.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#45
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I spent the weekend cleaning the car. I absolutely hate a dirty vehicle, and this one's gone 30 years without ever having been cleaned by me. I started with the wheel wells and the wheels.
I spent the weekend cleaning, cleaning, cleaning. I can't stand a dirty vehicle, and this one's gone 30 years without ever having been cleaned by me. I started with the wheel wells and back sides of the wheels (the latter being almost a lost cause). I ordered a gallon of Meg's Wheel Brightener just for this job. If this cleaner wouldn't cut it, nothing else will besides media blasting. Brought the car in the garage for buffing. The paint is original I believe, and in really, really nice shape considering the age and mileage. The only picture I took was after wash, clay, wash. I even used a mild degreaser to strip anything left on the paint from before my purchase. It was hard to capture, but the vertical line separating the left and right side of the trunk shows the 'haze' on the paint before buffing. Restored the grill and faded plastic/rubber trim. I used a charcoal plastidip on the grill, flat black on everything else, with a satin clear on the bumpers and mirrors. Depending on how I feel when I get home from work tomorrow, I still have to detail the interior. The paint has been buffed and sealed (Meg's #83 DACP, Klasse AIO, 4* UPP x2), the windows have been buffed (Klasse AIO, cutting pad), wheel wells thoroughly cleaned, backsides of the wheels cleaned. Still need to polish the metal trim and I'm debating on redying the faded portions of the MB Tex. I'm trying to find a local car wash with heated water on their pressure washers so I can get the engine bay done. I'm pretty sure I have 3 leaks. Valve cover, oil pan, and the third I forgot what it is. Back of the engine, driver's side, right next to the valve cover. While the W123 was in the garage, my AMG and BMW bike had to sit outside. I caught this cool picture of the AMG to show off the surface tension of the freshly detailed paint as it started raining: And the whole car. It's hard to make silver look special, but this car is glowing. No filter on this picture: |
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