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Old 04-24-2002, 10:08 PM
roadracer
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Question axle shaft replacement

Ok. I've done the search thing and I noticed that a couple of you guys have replaced your axles. Well, I've got that dull thumping going on back there. Especially when I make right turns. So, I have two questions. First, how hard is it to actually change them? Could it be done in my garage? What tools are needed? Another question is how long can I let this go. I do plan on changing them both. I figure if one is out it's just better to change both. Kind of like headlights and brakes. It's been doing this for about 6 months now. No increase in noise, no other sign. I looked under there and both boots are in tact. So, how long can I leave it like this?

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Old 04-24-2002, 10:37 PM
roadracer
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thanks. I just emailed him. I wanted to make sure that was the problem before I start pulling things apart. All the boots are intact. It would be nice if it was an easy fix though.
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Old 04-24-2002, 10:50 PM
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Hi Roadracer,the job can be done in your garage if you have at least 2 jackstands,a 14 mm Allen head socket and the usual assortment of metric hand tools.The 14mm socket is for the drain plug(no 3/8" extension like your Stang),the diff cover is also the mount so you need a jack to support the diff while you remove the cover.Drain the oil,remove the cover,pull the retaining clip off the axle(easier said than done sometimes ).There's a single bolt in the axle hub to remove,then collapse the axle as much as you can and try to remove it from the wheel hub.If it's too tight ,try jacking the diff up to change the angle of the axle.I remember jacking the diff up to the body to get the new(used)one in.I didn't remove the caliper when I replaced the other side and it saved some time.Total job took 1 1/2 hours for one side so probably 2 hours to do both,not including Murphy's time .Do you vintage race your Mustang ?That would just be too much fun Good luck with your axles,and get a Haynes manual if you don't already have one ,they're better than nothing
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Old 04-24-2002, 10:52 PM
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Dang ,I really need to type faster
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:11 PM
roadracer
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Kyle,

doesn't sound to difficult. I could probably get it done in a weekend. I am planning on racing my stang in the American Iron series sposored by NASA. Not the space program, the National Auto Sport Association. You're allowed 9.5 lbs per horsepower. You can do anything you want to the suspension as long as width doesn't exceed 72.5 inches. The car used to be my daily driver but is currently disassembled and waiting to be powder coated before the suspension upgrades begin. Go to www.griggsracing.com to see the upgrades I'm planning. The full GR350 package. Kinda pricey but, for what I'm doing well worth it's weight it gold.
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Old 04-25-2002, 12:46 AM
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Hi Roadracer,that looks like some serious stuff,the full package for $7000+ ,wow .I always thought my Stang handled like a '60's pickup truck,boy what a difference that would make .Now let's see,$7000US=12,000Cdn
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Old 04-25-2002, 08:49 PM
roadracer
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don't forget to add installation because everything has to be dead on. Costs another $4000. Brings the total to$11,000. Then the wheels, brakes. The ***** adds up quickly. Thats why I have my Mercedes. Man that car is a life saver.
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Old 04-25-2002, 10:39 PM
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Location: central Texas
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What RoadRacer asked about was a tech bulletin which had to do with a thunk when hitting a pot hole with the rear suspension... it basically said replace the rubber on the third member carrier...
On the axle shaft replacement deal... I did it outside and with the wagon not as high as I needed it to be... and it was a terrible job. You need to be able to hold the shafts when putting them in so they do not bend past a certain angle and install them into the differential while it is lowered from the car to give you room to fit the axle into place...a real bear by yourself... but I expect many do it without worrying about how much the axle bends... it is not a fun job any way you look at it... but take pics for the FAQ page when you do it.. even if you do stuff wrong send in the pics of that so someone else won't have to duplicate your mistakes.... Greg
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Old 04-25-2002, 11:11 PM
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Hi Greg,do you have a link to the TSB's?
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Old 04-26-2002, 07:15 AM
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It was just in a book I got off Ebay... it was saying that when the wheel drops down.. if you get a real thunk, that it is likely the front biscuit rubber of the rear suspension mounting because it has rotated on the rear biscuit and it has force a worn front one up enough to hit the frame.... it just said to replace them.... Greg
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Old 04-26-2002, 09:28 PM
roadracer
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I checked out my rear end and it turns out that it is the axles. I will probably do it sometime next month and will make sure to take plenty of pictures. Is there any particular brand that is better quality or are all replacement axles the same? What are some of your recomendations? I don't want to have to repeat this after I'm done. Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2002, 10:28 PM
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I would find a local shop with a good reputation that has a " lifetime " of the original owner deal.... that way if you have to do it it will only be the labor cost to you as long as you own the car.... our local price was $160 for that warranty..... Greg
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Old 04-27-2002, 09:44 AM
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What else would/could cause noise back there? I only get it going slow over rough road. It sounds like a popping noise.

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