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  #16  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:57 AM
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In my experience the bleeding procedure is so frustrating and fraught with peril (the peril of not succeeding, that is) that I would say this: if any component of the hydraulic clutch system goes out, replace it all and bleed it once. I've tried all the methods listed in the threads, too. I finally gave up on one of my cars, and had it hauled to my indie; just bleed it, I said. He did, but even he had trouble (and probably lost money on the repair).

Part of the problem is that the quality of the oil cans you can buy these days is crap.

Kurt

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Last edited by gastropodus; 02-02-2015 at 05:18 PM.
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2015, 10:10 AM
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The bleeding procedure is pretty straight forward, not sure what the problem people are having. Just make sure you have hose that is hard to get on the nipples (wont leak). Having the wrong size hose is what makes it a PITA.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2015, 12:27 PM
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I have a power bleeder , some black label thing, it was about 65.00 I think and screws on the reservoir. What is procedure if you have one of those? For bleeding I just do the slave like it is another brake caliper. Pressurize it and open each bleeder one at a time. Is that not right? It worked initially. We may have pumped pedal too. But the car sat a month and pedal bled down. I repressurized and opened slave bleeder and it brought back. And now it bled out again after sitting. I tightened hose clamp on the reservoir and now need to bleed again. I doubt that is problem.
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  #19  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Thats what they say, but its not like "once your in there, might as well do both" Its two different jobs and I've always wanted to get back on the road after that painful master cylinder job or not so bad slave cylinder. I only replace them when they go south. One thing that could be done after replacing one or both of those cylinders is flush the entire hydraulic system using the pressure bleeder like in "bleeding the brakes and then do the clutch last. That will flush the entire system and things last longer. I think MB recommends the brake fluid is flushed every couple years or so, not that I follow that to the letter

I totally agree with Stevo on this. Flush the Brake System first, this will flush out all old fluid and gunk before trying to use the R/F Caliper to Slave Cylinder, and pimping the Brake Peddle.

You do not want to be introducing old fluid into your new Clutch system.

The system has to be bled from the bottom up to push the air up and out.
I tried to use my Motive Power Bleeder the first time I did the 4-spd swap. If it works on the brake system to go from the top down why not the Clutch system? I don't know how much fluid I shoved down from the top, but that &%#$@ clutch would not bleed.

The biggest problem as has been mentioned, the R/F Caliper Bleeder and the Slave Bleeder are 2 different sizes. So you have to cobble together the hoses. I got a Brake Fluid bath a few time under the car.

Using a Oil Pump Can or other type of separate reservoir to pump up to the Brake MC Reservoir. First suck out any fluid or adding more will over flow it.

Iam not sure exactly how I got ours to work, but suddenly it worked and told my wife, "Don`t touch anything....it works".

Be sure to wear Safety Glasses or Goggles while working under the car.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:10 PM
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You cant use the power bleeder for bleeding the air from the clutch. You can FLUSH the hydraulic system with the pressure bleeder (including the clutch slave) before you bleed the air from the clutch. The clutch wont bleed like the brakes. Like Winmutt said the job is easy IF you have a good tight fitting hose, really not a big deal. The brake slave to clutch slave method works fine but the squirt can method is much easier but you need a good squirt can, not HF junk. I cant quite figure why folks have such a problem with clutch bleeding. Theres a utube somewhere showing squirt can bleeding on a BMW.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
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  #21  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:31 PM
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Here is the Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

(I have this Hughesnet Satellite Internet now, It is sooooow slow neck and neck
with Dial Up, and won`t let me see the video )

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #22  
Old 02-01-2015, 03:31 PM
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Thats an excellent video Charlie, not the one I saw but better. So your in Navada now, you gota miss the coast, huh?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #23  
Old 02-01-2015, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Thats an excellent video Charlie, not the one I saw but better. So your in Navada now, you gota miss the coast, huh?
No way am I going to miss the Fog and bone chilling dampness.
Cold here in Nevada too, but a different cold. Dry compared to Damp.

Nice to see blue sky in the mornings instead of grey overcast.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #24  
Old 02-01-2015, 06:25 PM
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Charley, funny how as we get older we appreciate the sunshine more and more
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #25  
Old 02-02-2015, 04:05 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
System has worked properly for a couple years. I'm not down any noticeable amount in the brake resevoir and don't see any drips under the car. Father in law had a stroke the day after it happened so I haven't had time yet to jack it up and look closely underneath as of yet.

Mainly was wondering if there are rebuild kits for the 2 cylinders (at pedal and at tranny) or if total replacements are the way to go? On Peachparts the Slave Cylinder $41 and Master Cylinder $53 are reasonable but the internal rubber for both should be under $10 each if available.

Is it a good idea to refresh one end without doing the other?

Also, I recall some type of unusual bleed procedure? Can anyone direct me to that DIY thread? Is it as simple as Max stated?
Get the NEW units.
I have tried honing / rebuilding these master / slave cylinders many times, with terrible results.

This is IMO; the quality of the few available repair kits combined with cylinder pitting / scoring too deep for honing.

The best results are when I have the cylinder bored and stainless steel sleeved, which is generally not cost effective.

.
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Last edited by whunter; 02-02-2015 at 04:15 AM.
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2015, 01:53 PM
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Thanks everyone for their input!
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Go with both new ones... you have plenty of other things to deal with... and you did not state the cost of only the seals.. only assumed their cost ... and availability...
You could easily get them apart and the seals ready only to find the bores too messed up to fix....
Whunter, I agreed with you five days ago.....
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  #28  
Old 03-03-2015, 11:44 AM
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Due to a family health issue that came up, I've just gotten back around to this and I'd like to say what a pain it was to replace the slave cylinder! If you don't have an assortment of curved wrenchs, stubby wrenches, and crows feet ratchet attachments then get them prior to tackling this on a 201. Both cylinders are replaced but have to get some hose before attempting the bleeding...fingers crossed!
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  #29  
Old 03-03-2015, 12:39 PM
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Replacing the slave on the 240D is a piece of cake, altogether a different story on my 300TD. Finally had to get my wife with her small hands to get that last 13mm nut on.

Ace Hardware has a verity of clear hose which works very nice.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #30  
Old 03-03-2015, 04:43 PM
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I've had good luck once or twice with "self bleeding". If the car is pointed in a safe direction, and you live in an area where you can safely drive around with no traffic or other hazards, put the transmission in first gear, make sure the clutch pedal is out, and start the car. Note: you need a good strong battery and starter, good glow plugs, etc so the engine starts easily. Wouldn't hurt to start the car in neutral first and let it warm up a bit.

Make sure the brake/clutch fluid reservoir is totally full! The reservoir has two chambers, front and rear, and if the rear chamber is low it can be really hard to see, especially with fresh clear fluid. Top it up until the fluid is up into the fill neck.

Once the car is started and moving, DON'T TOUCH the clutch pedal, just drive around in first gear for a few minutes. The vibrations will cause the air to move up/out of the system, if the MB gods are with you. Gently try the pedal, be careful that you don't push it to the floor so it gets stuck there, and then you are trying to drive and get your toe under the pedal to bring it back up, not very fun and a little dangerous.

This method worked for me on a stick 123 and a stick 201. Only once did I have to resort to "pressure" bleeding via the brake circuit method described in the service manual.

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