Thanks Stretch, now I understand and it makes sense ! From your pic, everything needs to be in parallel with the input shaft of the differential. Then the differential input shaft needs to be parallel with the rest of the drive train ! Currently the trailing arms are still assemble to the sub frame. Studying the trailing arms show a weld line which is directly inline with a reference bump mark on the mounting flange on the sub frame. I assume this could be used as a beginning reference mark. Through the use of a dowl rod which could be inserted through one hub, and going out the other hub, you could check for level. The final check would be with the differential attached. I'll include a pic of this reference bump mark later today.

Got a little further on this project. I've separated the trailing arms from the subframe and removed the sub frame bushings and the trailing arm bushing. Wasn't that hard but had to build a tool. Research indicates that the Whiskeydan tool is the ticket for the trailing arm job and a slight tool modification for removal of the sub frame bushings. I added one item which isn't in the original Whiskeydan write-up. That is a small block of 1/4 aluminum with a 5/8 inch hole in the middle. I was concerned with pul/forcingl equal compression through the entire bushing so as to not cause problems and extra work. Worked great ;)

The w123 and the W126 (First gen) have the same rear suspension.
The W126 just has a wider Sub Frame and axles.

I did this job a few years ago on my 85 300D. Looking back, this really isn`t all that difficult of a job.

Be sure to have the Differential mount facing the correct way. I bolted mine the wrong way
and for the life of me couldn`t figure out why the holes didn`t line up with the 4 13mm bolts. Turned it around, and all was good.

The 123 and 126 bolt on 180 deg of each other.

I used this product for the lubricant to get the Sub Frame Bushings in.



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QT4n1qWhL.jpg

KY might be good for some things, :rolleyes: but this isn`t one of them.

If you can`t get the bolt out of the Trailing Arm, just source another set with lower miles. (yours looks pretty rusty)
The 123 and 126 use the same Arms.
When I did mine, I found a 85 300CD with much lower miles, used it`s arms and Diff.

When you put it back under the car. if you have 3 Floor jacks, place one under the Differential,
and one under each Trailing Arm. Then just raise it up into position.

I read Whisky Dan`s thread too, and made a few adjustments along the way.

I think I added to it or in another thread on my R&R job.


Charlie

Oooo vicar!

Oh wow - there's the space heater

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...scn3088_r1.jpg

Now that's the way to do winter mechanics

I've replaced all of the bushings on the front and rear suspension on mine. The press "tool" was some all-thread, nuts, washers, and a cheap Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket set. I didn't have to deal with rust, which may/may not influence the difficulty, but haven't ran across a large bushing it couldn't handle.

I agree with Charlie, silicone lube is a necessity if you want those bushings to install correctly. However, I have used KY when the FSM calls for a water-soluble lubricant. I've looked in parts stores and haven't found anything they carry that meets that requirement. It's not needed very often (front LCA bushings come to mind) but it works. Sil-glyde, Dow Corning 4 and silicone dielectric grease not only ease the installation but is good to keep corrosion out of those suspension joints.

I thought all garages had space heaters in them?:D

that one looks identical to mine.

I've also toyed with the idea of building a portable radiant plate to slide under cars I'm working on ...

If only I had space for a space heater!

Radiant plate? Isn't that something you keep your curry warm on?

nahh...

a radiant plate is a 2" thick plate of urethane, or concrete with small tubing run through it connected to a pump and run to a heater, like a small water heater... then you fire up the system, and the plate heats up to like 100F, and the vehicle above the plate stays toasty, and working under the car becomes pleasant.:D

My plan was to use 3/8" tubing, and a set of air tank fittings, for portability. then fill the tank and tubing with antifreeze...
fairly simple to build and use.

Yes, that's one heater in the garage. The other is a furnace hanging from the ceiling. Both the 1 ton hoist and the ceiling furnace where inherited with the house when we moved in.

Ahhh an HVAC engineer's term for under floor heating - now I see!

...and I bet they were your reasons for getting the place!

OK guys, I need the collective wisdom of more experienced users than me. The new sub frame bushings arrived today and I compared them to the originals. My goal with this car is to re-establish the factory ride and replacing all rubber will hopefully accomplish that objective. Removing the old one and installing new ones is academic to me but what does a worn out sub frame bushing look like ?
I took a few pics of the new sub frame bushing next to the old. Although the aluminum collar is separated from the rubber, the original one is not dished as much as the new one. What else it there to look for ?

Ok folks as the saga continues. My parts came in, being new springs, sub frame bushings, trailing arms bushings and both the sub frame and the trailing arms came back from the sandblasters. For a car from up North where there is allot of salt used, I was surprised on how good these parts looked.

Painting is the climate I live in can be a problem. Primer needs at least 60 degrees to dry. The kerosine heater came into play for outside temps where in the 20's today. The paint dries in 30 minutes to the touch, so I had to maintain at least that to get things done.
I used self-leveling etching primer which contains zinc. Next, and according to directions on the can, I sanded the primer to 320 grit and then applied an epoxy primer. This is the state in the below pics. Since I cannot hang this up, I have to do one side at a time. This will dry and finally it will get Rhino lined them. The Rhino liner can be applied in temps from 32 to 90 degrees F, but colder temps equal longer drying time. I have to wait it out and see how fast it dries over the next few days, ie once applied.