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#1
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Temperature gauge broken!
At the relay the voltage reads 5.6 when cold.
All fuses unbroken. Detailed instruction on how to get into the dash cluster? The fuel gauge also doesn't work. Still can't drive the kid to school! She's stoked. Thanks! |
#2
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what is the temp reading?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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It is under the bottom temp-40 c I think?the needle does change
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#4
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Doesn't change I meant
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#5
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What is the resistance on the temperature probe? If you ground the connector for the temperature probe does it spike the needle?
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ |
#6
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Maybe it's f?
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#7
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When would it spike? I would put the red probe on the relay bolt thing? Then ground the black probe on the block? Then the car is just on and not running?
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#8
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What setting is the multi meter on? I'm a serious invalid when it comes to understanding that thing!
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#9
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No worries, The quick and dirty check for the temp probe being good (and subsequent wiring) is to ground it against the block. The needle should shoot to the top, if the probe is bad.
Basically, unplug the probe (While your assistant watches the gauge, ignition on; motor off), and hold it against the bare metal of the engine. (FWIW:This is the one I used to my truck gauges, I'm not completely sure if it goes to the dash needle in the original vehicle; or is only for the auto-glow plug system. But certainly try grounding the connector to see if the needle does spike.)
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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck (*<1%) Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/ |
#10
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So I'm holding the red probe of the multimeter on the temp probe (circled by red, in your diagram) and touching the black probe on the block and if the wiring is bad the meter will spike if it's not the meter will read what?
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#11
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no...
take the wire that he circled, and ground it to the block... stick a wire in it, and put the wire on the block. a jumper wire is best, but you can use a screw, or the red lead on your meter. put one end of the red lead in the circled wire, put the other end of the red lead to the block, then turn on the key, and see what the temp gauge reads on the dash.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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You need two hooks like these.
Then you insert them between cluster and dash, top left and top right, rotate so they hook on the cluster, and pull it out. It is a friction fit, if it has never been removed it can be rather tough the first time.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#13
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lets start at the beginning...
what car are you working on?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#14
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More instrument cluster:
You don't need to remove the steering wheel, but disconnecting the battery is a good idea. You pull it out a little, so you can reach behind the right side and start disconnecting all the wires, bulbs, and the speedometer cable. On the far left are two of the harder connections. The oil pipe connection for the oil pressure gauge, and a round can type connector. Beware the oil pipe, a good practice is to counter-hold the gauge side with a box end wrench as you disconnect the line with a second box-end wrench. I think the sizes are 11mm and 10mm? The oil pipe connection may leak, so be prepared with a rag. The can-type connector is usually just really tight. A small flat screwdriver, used carefully to pry it off, may help. If you use the screwdriver, you MUST disconnect the battery. DO NOT start the car with the oil pipe disconnected, unless you plan to pump all the engine oil into the driver's side footwell!!
__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#15
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From the profile:
Vehicles1983 240D stick, 1982 240D auto
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
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