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#31
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Pictorial: W123 300D Turbo Starter Motor Replacement
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Current Stable
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#32
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OK... after reading what else you took off... and it looks like you may not have been working on exact replica vehicle..
I suggest that the extensions from under the car are the more logical and lower labor method....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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I'm happy to help someone with a project, even though I have plenty of my own. I have a VW diesel powered race vehicle, just bought an '05 4Runner that needs some sprucing up, in addition to my 190D daily driver and my wife's minivan, all on top of hobbies, kids activities, etc.
With respect to the starter, I know I've taken the starter off my old '80 300SD many years ago. It seems like I was able to do it with about 3 feet of 3/8 drive extensions and a U-Joint, but I don't remember exactly the combination of tools required for the job. I would hope that it wouldn't take cutting a 10mm Allen wrench in half, along with 2 combination wrenches and a ball of electrical tape, although if that's what's needed, then that's what's needed. There's nothing like laying underneath a car with black filth falling in your face to build character and make you decide whether you are really committed to finishing a job. Steve.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#34
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That is what it takes. Rather easy that way IMO.
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
#35
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I have pulled more than one W201 transmission while laying in the filth of a gravel junkyard, using the same 3 feet of extension and the same U-Joint, trying to get all 10 of those &6*%$## bolts loose.
For that job, once you realize that two 18 inch extensions and a U-joint are required, the rest is just about the cussing and the bloody knuckles. Steve.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#36
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You sound like a really decent guy, and I hope that family appreciates. Too many people are indecisive, and that comes from fear, usually from lack of knowledge. Frustrating for those who try to help. Even my wife never trusts me, despite seeing me fix multiple cars over 3 decades.
Diesels are fine for sitting long times, which is why they are backup engine on sailboats. My 1985 300D sat for over 3 yrs (in garage) while I figured out how to deal with the failed engine. I ran the replacement engine on a stand, feeding it from a bottle, and it started right up after priming w/ the hand pump. Since her engine just sat, it shouldn't have air bubbles in the system. I don't recall getting a spray when cracking an injector tube, just a dribble. There isn't much volume on each squirt at "idle pedal". To insure all air is out, I suggest cracking each injector tube and pumping the hand primer as the starter is cranked. That way, the primer pump will flow thru each injector cylinder, just like when one does an injector timing "drip test". Tighten the nuts while still cranking to insure no air back-flows. Stick the lift pump supply hose into a jar of clean diesel. |
#37
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That seems about right..... except I suggest Half Inch drive stuff... if that bolt is really tough the skinny extensions just bend...and you only have a certain amount of room... unless you are on a lift...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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You are right, Leathermang. 1/2 drive stuff transmits the torque better. I don't happen to own two 18 inch 1/2 drive extensions, but I'm not opposed to buying some.
That moment when the 3 feet of 3/8 drive extensions "breaks loose" the bolt is a moment that you really feel the snap in your hand. OUCH. Steve.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#39
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That's a good point about the volume of diesel injected with each "shot" with the throttle pedal at idle.
Next time, I'll crank with the pedal at WOT, maybe that will help get some more fuel moving. The first time I went over (with the battery from my 190D), I was pretty confident that I would be able to hook up a fresh battery and fire it right up. Sadly, that didn't happen (yet). Steve.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#40
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I'm thinking the no start is a combination of glow plugs and fuel filters/water and who knows what else in fuel.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#41
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Seems like ..on my non turbo , non monovalve, 240 that I may used them for the lower bolt on the starter .. with my hands near the radiator... this is with the car on the ground and the starter is turned 90 degrees and comes straight up and out... after taking the battery out and moving the wires to towards the engine... all the work being done over the fender...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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With the many posts and differing opinions, this is going to be an interesting thread to follow. I could offer my opinion as well, but it would be mostly a mixture of everything else said (many great suggestions so far, and all have some merit). I have a good idea of exactly the reason why it won't start, but I will keep it to myself for now and see how it all plays out. One thing for sure, you don't want to do more than one thing at a time. Fir instance, if you do the 4 different fuel related things all at once, you won't know which one was causing the no start condition. And yes, it sounds like the starter needs to be replaced or rebuilt anyway, so no sense doing anything else until that is accomplished. Unfortunately this is the main reason why these cars end up in wrecking yards. I am thankful that you are willing to help them get the car back on the road. If you were not in their life, the car might have already been at it's final resting place in row 52 for all the vultures to pick at . Not that is the worst thing that can happen, as I am glad for the occasional 'Benz in the yard to pick at (I guess that makes me a vulture too ), but perfectly viable cars should never be there. This car seems like it is well worth the effort to get back on the road again, and I hope you figure it out so everyone is happy....Rich
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#43
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jetmugg
rooting for ya from the sidelines
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1991 300D |
#44
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yes, a shame to do more than one thing at a time and end up not knowing what was actually the cause of the no start condition....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#45
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180 RPM No glow plug extended cranking start using a diagnostic port adapter I built and an inductive timing light CLICK TO PLAY 164 RPM using a Photo tach CLICK TO PLAY Not sure about RPM since Photo tach is not legible (it's slower, I think it's around 150 RPM) CLICK TO PLAY
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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