new delivery valve seals, and now... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

greythunder · #1 02-10-2015, 09:52 AM

LOTS of stereotypical "click clack" diesel noise for the first 15-20min of drivng. I think this is the way om60x engines are supposed to sound? 3 of the 5 seals were leaking pretty badly, so my guess is there wasn't enough fuel pressure getting to the injectors.

I've got slight smoke at full throttle (only visible in headlights behind me). new air filter, recent pressure wastegate actuator swap, new nozzles and pop tested may last year.

Can anyone tell me what else I need to check? and also how to check timing chain stretch? 135k miles

cho · #2 02-10-2015, 10:13 AM

I do not own om602 but guys over here go first for lifters if the
clang clang (on first few minutes - cold) is the issue....

.

pimpernell · #3 02-10-2015, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greythunder

LOTS of stereotypical "click clack" diesel noise for the first 15-20min of drivng. I think this is the way om60x engines are supposed to sound? 3 of the 5 seals were leaking pretty badly, so my guess is there wasn't enough fuel pressure getting to the injectors.

I've got slight smoke at full throttle (only visible in headlights behind me). new air filter, recent pressure wastegate actuator swap, new nozzles and pop tested may last year.

Can anyone tell me what else I need to check? and also how to check timing chain stretch? 135k miles

Just wondering if you also replaced the copper crush washers? When I did my delivery valves the first time I did not change out the crush washers, and
I got the same results you have. Redid the job changing out both seals and crush washers, and everything quited down. Good luck!

greythunder · #4 02-10-2015, 11:46 AM

i did do the crush washers as well. got them from mb parts counter. I even followed the 30nm loosen 30nm loosen 35nm torque specs.

KarTek · #5 02-10-2015, 12:42 PM

The OM606 has the same delivery valves. In my experience, the engine clatters and pings for a good time after they are serviced. Try giving it about a hundred miles.

greythunder · #6 02-10-2015, 02:41 PM

I thought about doing a purge, I know most everyone here thinks its snake oil, myself included, but this might be a good test to find out if it is.

Maxbumpo · #7 02-10-2015, 03:33 PM

Timing chain: this method is accurate enough, the "book" method requires a dial indicator. You'll need to pull the valve cover. Looking at the back of the camshaft gear, there is a groove in the shoulder of the camshaft. Look at the cam bearing covers: each has a raised marker. I line up a ruler on several of those markers and then turn the crankshaft until the groove lines up with the ruler. Once they are lined up, read the value of the pointer on the damper on the front of the crankshaft. Take several measurements (rotate the crank through two revolutions to bring the camshaft grove back to TDC) so you've got some confidence in your reading.

0 - 4 degrees past TDC, your fine. 5 - 9 degrees, time to schedule a new chain. More than 10 degrees, you probably want to park the car until the chain has been replaced.

Maxbumpo · #8 02-10-2015, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greythunder

I thought about doing a purge, I know most everyone here thinks its snake oil, myself included, but this might be a good test to find out if it is.

I would not count it as snake oil, I think it does a great job of cleaning the injection pump fuel-side and the injectors. You would need to remove the injectors to REALLY clean them, but generally you can get good results with Lubro Moly Diesel Purge. It can simply be added to the fuel tank, or straight through the injection pump by intercepting the supply and return lines in the engine bay.

Maxbumpo · #9 02-10-2015, 03:37 PM

Lifter noise: Many (myself included) have successfully quieted noisy lifters by switching to Mobil 1 synthetic oil or Amsoil which is also a high quality synthetic. It may take hundreds of miles or in some cases even thousands, but it usually does the job. The only other option is to replace the failed lifters with new or used, which can be expensive.

pawoSD · #10 02-10-2015, 04:48 PM

When I fully serviced my OM601 2.2 engine it took probably 500-1000 miles for it to fully "settle in". I did the timing chain, all hydro lifters, delivery valves/seals, and the injector nozzles. (as well as vac pump, and all belt components) It was a major servicing

It had about 265k then, its at 273k or so now still going strong!

greythunder · #11 02-11-2015, 06:32 PM

today i did a little more digging. the noise seems to be coinciding with a "miss" at idle that can be heard while kneeling down and listening to the exhaust. the car has always done this when cold, but after the valve seals, it seems to be constant. i used my stethoscope on each of the injectors and found the noise happened at the same time #2 was firing, mostly. then i cracked #2 injector while running and bubbles started coming out and the noise mostly stopped. i pulled #2 injector and pop tested it, and its right at 1925 psi.

then, i switched the return and pressure lines under the hood to see if the tank screen could be the culprit, no change.

the "miss" can be heard on this clip:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrCZYL4UdTo&feature=youtu.be

any ideas?

compu_85 · #12 02-12-2015, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

The OM606 has the same delivery valves. In my experience, the engine clatters and pings for a good time after they are serviced. Try giving it about a hundred miles.

It took about 600 miles for mine to quiet down after I replaced them.

-J

greythunder · #13 02-12-2015, 05:27 PM

so i should resist the temptation to open them back up and retorque them? do you think it is related to the miss at idle?

mike-81-240d · #14 02-13-2015, 03:37 AM

My 617 has a similar miss at idle, it also smokes at idle though.

Maxbumpo · #15 02-13-2015, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greythunder

today i did a little more digging. the noise seems to be coinciding with a "miss" at idle that can be heard while kneeling down and listening to the exhaust. the car has always done this when cold, but after the valve seals, it seems to be constant. i used my stethoscope on each of the injectors and found the noise happened at the same time #2 was firing, mostly. then i cracked #2 injector while running and bubbles started coming out and the noise mostly stopped. i pulled #2 injector and pop tested it, and its right at 1925 psi.

When you loosened the the injector hard line, and the noise stopped, you narrowed the possible causes to the injector and the delivery valve and the injection pump.

I would recommend that you "re-work" that delivery valve next, paying very close attention to cleanliness and procedure. New copper washer, new O-ring, clean-clean-clean. Torque procedure: Tighten to 30 Nm, release; Tighten to 30 Nm, release; Tighten to 30 Nm, then tighten to 35 Nm, and lock down.

Re-test with your stethoscope / cracking the hard line method. In the problem remains, your next options are to have someone else check your work (i.e. test the injector, re-work the DV). You may have a bad DV, or worst case you have a bad injection pump (very unlikely).