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  #1  
Old 02-12-2015, 12:45 AM
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OM642 care and feeding

I have a new to me OM642 powered R320. This is by far the newest diesel I've messed with. I'm wondering how the 642 compares to the older engines(om617 etc) is regards to fuel/oil treatments etc.

I regularly put a bit of 2-cycle oil in with the D2 diesel used in my 617 powered cars. Is that still a good idea with the 642?
Or is it just fine since it was designed to run the ULSD?
Can I use diesel purge?
Is B5 the only mix of bio fuel I can use?
Use diesel kleen?
Can I use "Warren Distribution Howes Lubricator Fuel Additive Diesel Treatment"?
Occasional ATF in the fuel to clean injectors?

From the above list I only regularly used 2-cycle oil and the amber colored stuff known as "Warren Distribution Howes Lubricator Fuel Additive Diesel Treatment", I guess I never really knew the name of it.

I',m sure the biodiesel question has been answered before, please forgive me.

Thanks

PS: Do you think there is ever going to be a need to plug this thing in(block heater) when it's really cold? Never plugged 603's in, ever. But I did sometimes with the 617's.

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  #2  
Old 02-12-2015, 02:02 AM
2.5Turbo's Avatar
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I would avoid adding anything to the fuel or oil except additives that say they're compatible with your DPF. Anything that burns and creates too much ash will eventually plug the DPF; this is why DPF equipped vehicles require low-SAPS oils. At least in my opinion, the high pressure pump and injectors were designed to work with ULSD and the harm some additives may do to the DPF outweighs the minimal benefits to the fuel system.

I'm not 100% sure but I believe up to B20 is OK in the common rail engines. Oil change intervals may need to be shorter when running B20; I know Chrysler lets me go half as long on the oil in my Jeep when running B20. I know all diesel fuel in Minnesota is required to be at least B10 during the summer months and will go to B20 in 2018, so I think you'll be fine.

I would plug in below zero, if anything to get the oil to where it's needed faster. It'll probably start at -20, but the oil won't be pumping as easily as if it was warmer.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k
2000 E430 - 103k
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k
2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel
2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz


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  #3  
Old 02-12-2015, 02:45 AM
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Oh yes the DPF..

If/when that thing needs replaced I might just delete it from the system. But then I would likely need to get the computer re-tuned.

I'll keep an eye out for DPF computability on additives. Thanks
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90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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  #4  
Old 02-12-2015, 08:29 AM
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I would use no additives at all. This thing does not have the old familiar Bosch injection pump which those were meant to lubricate and preserve.

I don't think mercedes has approved anything more than B5 for this engine.

Since your car is tagged as a CDi rather than a Bluetec, I don't believe it is equipped with a DPF.

I recently saw some postings where the direct injection engines started fine without a block heater down to -10F. Down here in Texas it's never even been cold enough to pergola the thing. Just turn the key and go, year round. It's indistinguishable from a petrol car.
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  #5  
Old 02-12-2015, 09:34 AM
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The only weak point of the V6, is the failure of the oil cooler O rings. I'm not thrilled about the V - configuration turbodiesel engines. Just change filters, fluids, and drive.
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  #6  
Old 02-12-2015, 10:02 AM
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Do not add anything to the fuel or crankcase.

You car does have a PDF.

Use only the approved crankcase oil unless the PDF is sitting on a shelf in the garage.

Your car does not have a block heater. It is not needed.

Green Diesel Engineering does custom tuning for that engine.
They can:
eliminate the EGR cycle and it's flapper motor and any associated codes
if you remove the PDF they can eliminate the regeneration cycle and any associated codes
add about 20% more power at the same fuel consumption
runs smoother and is more responsive.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
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2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
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1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
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Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2015, 10:43 AM
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Make sure you use correct engine oil too.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2015, 12:05 PM
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DO NOT add anything to the fuel!!! The high-pressure pump, and/or injectors are easily damaged by anything other than ULSD fuel.
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2015, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Green Diesel Engineering does custom tuning for that engine.
They can:
eliminate the EGR cycle and it's flapper motor and any associated codes
if you remove the PDF they can eliminate the regeneration cycle and any associated codes
add about 20% more power at the same fuel consumption
runs smoother and is more responsive.
I do want a custom tune at some point. Throttle response sucks on this thing, you gotta really mash it to get it to go anywhere.

How would one know when it's time for a "new" DPF? Is it fairly easy to hollow it out and leave it in place?

It could really use a stiffer suspension, perhaps some parts from the R55. Especially the brakes


Thanks
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2015, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Make sure you use correct engine oil too.
Found it at pepboys

Problem is it doesn't seem to burn any oil, but I have a couple quarts just in-case.

Any real world advice on how frequently to change the oil? I do about 60/40 highway vs city driving.
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08 R320 CDI current

Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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  #11  
Old 02-12-2015, 11:11 PM
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Let the computer tell you when to do the services. It monitors the way you drive and adjusts the change interval accordingly.
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2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)
2008 ML320 CDI (Older sonís DD)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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gone but living on
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2015, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Let the computer tell you when to do the services. It monitors the way you drive and adjusts the change interval accordingly.
Actually, by 2008 it's a fixed 10k mile / 1 year oil service interval. Just change it when the computer tells you. I've had Blackstone analyze the oil after 10k miles on this engine and it had plenty of life remaining.

Oil levels will tend to rise over time on this engine due to the post injection for the DPF recycle. Some of the fuel injected during the exhaust stroke ends up in the crankcase. It's normal. I would suggest only filling to the midpoint of the dipstick when servicing the car. Otherwise the level will rise above the full line over time.

I find it is most cost effective to mail order the ESP oil. Amazon has good prices, of all places.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2015, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Let the computer tell you when to do the services. It monitors the way you drive and adjusts the change interval accordingly.
^^^^^
Not necessarily good advise.

The computers aren't calibrated or capable in measuring the parameters of the oil's lubricating performance/capability remaining - to name just one reason why not to depend on them.
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2015, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcyuhn View Post
Actually, by 2008 it's a fixed 10k mile / 1 year oil service interval. Just change it when the computer tells you. I've had Blackstone analyze the oil after 10k miles on this engine and it had plenty of life remaining.

Oil levels will tend to rise over time on this engine due to the post injection for the DPF recycle. Some of the fuel injected during the exhaust stroke ends up in the crankcase. It's normal. I would suggest only filling to the midpoint of the dipstick when servicing the car. Otherwise the level will rise above the full line over time.

I find it is most cost effective to mail order the ESP oil. Amazon has good prices, of all places.
Good advise.....

To the point - I had a top-line indy try to tell me the CDI's oil needed changing after about 4K miles on it and the oil filter. -"Because the 'computer' said so."
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2015, 11:02 PM
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ok, I'll just plan on 10k oil changes. I might actually have to pay to have it done, since I no longer have a garage or even a place to do it. There is a place here in Seattle called strictly mercedes, they have great reviews. They're gonna have to do my maintenance until further notice. The oil sticker on the windshield says it was changed about 1500 miles ago, so I'm good for awhile. Will the service light/msg pop up at 10k from the time it was reset last? I know I can get into it and change that stuff when I need to.

I do have an oil leak, but the dealer said it's coming from the front someplace, they would have to steam clean it to find the leak. BUT the weep hole for the oil cooler is dry, so that's a good sign.

Next I will get the transmission/diff/transfer fluid's changed.

I was enjoying the torque all day today
Even for a 5000 lb vehicle it moves right on out.

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Past
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90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

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