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what happens when the engine runs out of oil?
How durable are these things? When the engine runs down to about a quart left and there's a knocking once it gets up to temperature, what should I be looking at? This is a 606NA.
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-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
#2
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Crank and cam bearing surfaces.
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Jim |
#3
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Nothing good happens.
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#4
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Quote:
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Current Stable
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#5
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You could drain what's left fill it up with fresh oil and see what happens but good chances are the engine is FUBAR.
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General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo |
#6
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They aren't any more durable than anything else when it comes to being starved of oil. I'd really advise you to stop running that engine before you cause any more serious damage. I'd imagine all the bearing's are absolutely roasted....
If it really is only knocking when it warms up, if you're feeling adventurous, drop the oil pan and replace the bearings. I've done it on an OM603 that we have in small Mazda farm pickup - damn engine has been running for about 2 years now. Runs a lot quieter than my 300SD and 350SDL 603's lmao Or sell me the car and I'll do it.
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Allen Kroliczek Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport 01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more..... |
#7
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The cam bearings probably are OK as there is enough residue oil to lubricate them. The rod bearings are goner for sure. The main crank bearings may also be OK. My OM603 oil chain snapped and there was NO oil pressure but oil in the sump. I did not notice it until the engine stopped and seized. It would not turn over and there were metal to metal scratching sound when turned. I resurrected it by replacing the rod bearings ONLY. Sanded the crank journal a bit, only 1 out of 5. Honed the cylinders slightly and now it is running like a champ. You really do not know until you take the top and bottom off and inspect them. I would not discount it yet.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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When oil pressure is lost gradually, the rod bearings are the first to go. You might get away with just replacing those. If you are less lucky, you might need to pull the crankshaft and turn the rod bearing journals down to the next size. If you're that far in, you'll be inspecting the main bearing journals and replacing the main bearings. The top end is probably ok. However, if you were looking for an excuse for a full rebuild, this is it.
When I was 16, I did the exact same thing to a 400 Chrysler V8. I ran it low enough long enough that the crank would have needed to be turned. I didn't like that car very much anyway, so my solution was to get a different car.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#9
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I would cut the oil filter open and see if you have any metal particles stuck in the element. You could also carefully drain a cold, settled quart of oil from the pan and strain it with a coffee filter to see what you've got.
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#10
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Looks like getting at the rod bearings means pulling the engine? I'd think the oil pan(s) need to come off, correct?
__________________
-E300d '99 350k -Suburban '93 220k -TDI Jetta '03 350k Sold -F250 '96 7.3 -Dodge Ram 12V -E320 '95 200k -E320 Wagon 1994 155k -300d Turbo '87 187k miles -E320 1994 200k -300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62) -300d Turbo '84 180k -300sd '80 300k -7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles -190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB) Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's. |
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It is apparently still running.
New filter, fill with oil, drive it. Don't ignore the low oil warning light. If the low oil warning system is not working then check the oil level often. If it seems to run ok, start looking for where the oil is going. A faulty CCV system can suck oil out of these engines pretty quick.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#12
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Yeah sure, keep driving it. Maybe the bearings will burn out enough that you'll throw a rod through the block and have an entirely new can of worms opened.
__________________
Allen Kroliczek Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport 01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more..... |
#13
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Cut that oil filter open, it's the easiest way to tell if you engine is making metal, though if it's knocking the damage is likely done. Once you block a oil hole with babbet/metallic meterial it's only a mater of time before you lock up a rod bearing and bust a hole in the block.
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#14
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Does this engine have oil jets that lubricate and cool the pistons from below?
__________________
General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo |
#15
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I would not run the car now until you have inspected the rod bearings. You can change/inspect the rod bearings by removing the oil pan only and lift the engine up a bit. You can also inspect the main bearing by gently tapping/rolling them out of the crank shaft. Good luck.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
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