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  #106  
Old 03-20-2015, 01:56 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 537
@TnBob
Therein lies the problem. I live in the middle of nowhere, Fairbanks, Alaska. The next town over is a 6 hour drive away. There are no junk yards here. I've ever only seen two other W123's here in town anyway. I can't find them for sale either. Finding a parts car is pretty much out of the question, unfortunately.

All right, so I changed the oil and filter and the gaskets etc, fired her up and she ran again. She didn't want to turn off.

Mercedes has decided to run all vacuum lines right on top of the oil filter housing, and I accidentally knocked one loose. I was able to stop the engine without a problem using the STOP button, hooked up the vacuum line and she shuts off again when I turn the ignition.

She took 7.9 quarts to get it up to the full mark. Not kidding. I let her drain while I was putting the engine shock and the air filter etc back, so she was draining for a good hour and a half.

Anyway, I need to take some pictures etc, because taking a closer look at the car has made me have a few extra questions....They are better explained with pictures.

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  #107  
Old 03-20-2015, 02:13 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 537
All right, took some pictures.

Here are my questions:

1) This question is just because I'm curious. How are you supposed to stop a run-away diesel? Just for fun I blocked the air intake as she was idling. I had removed the hose that goes to the air filter. If I block it off completely with a block of wood, all that happens is a LOUD hissing noise - sounds like it comes from the breather tube on top of the air filter - and the engine just keeps on running. I really thought blocking the air intake on the air filter housing would starve it, but I guess not.

2) Could anyone please help me locate the bottom clip for the oil cooler? I'm missing that one, and the oil cooler is loose on the bottom. I did not lose it, it wasn't there when I bought it (though I didn't notice it at the time...)

3) See that little hole? Is anything supposed to be attached there? If so, I'm missing whatever that is...


4) This little plastic cover thingy is on the bottom of the transmission. What it is and is it important? Mine is broken and about to fall out? Is it vital to replace this?


5) I've noticed that the engine makes a rattling/clackety sound when I start it. When I start the engine, it sounds normal for the first two seconds, then there will be a loud(er) clacketing/tapping noise which disappears after 5 seconds. After that everything sounds normal. This happens on cold starts.

I know it's incredibly hard to diagnose anything car-related just by reading text, but could anyone tell me what this could be a symptom of?

6) How hard is the transmission supposed to pull? When I shift in reverse with my foot on the brake, the rear end of the car comes up noticably. When I shift in D, the rear end comes down noticably, and I can feel it pulling. I've only owned andd riven one other automatic car in my life (the one my wife drives) and it doesn't do that. Is it normal to pull quite hard?
Attached Thumbnails
Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-20150319_220538-medium-.jpg   Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-20150319_220647-medium-.jpg  

Last edited by Ceristimo; 03-20-2015 at 03:37 AM.
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  #108  
Old 03-20-2015, 10:51 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,048
I can comment on a couple.
#3- that looks like the steering limit stop tab. There might have been an adjustment screw in the hole, but it is probably not all that critical not having one there.
#4- that is the torque converter bolt access hole cover. Yours looks just like almost every other one I have seen, so don't worry about it. You could replace it for piece of mind, but the fact that it is still there means that it is still doing it's job.
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  #109  
Old 03-20-2015, 11:30 AM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,778
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
1) This question is just because I'm curious. How are you supposed to stop a run-away diesel? Just for fun I blocked the air intake as she was idling. I had removed the hose that goes to the air filter. If I block it off completely with a block of wood, all that happens is a LOUD hissing noise - sounds like it comes from the breather tube on top of the air filter - and the engine just keeps on running. I really thought blocking the air intake on the air filter housing would starve it, but I guess not.
Sounds like your intake has a lot of holes allowing air in? Or perhaps the breather hose from the valve cover is allowing enough air to run? I've heard that blocking off the intake is the best method, maybe you've got to open up the air filter box to eliminate as much of the air duct work as possible and block the intake manifold directly. Another method is to use a CO2 fire extinguisher aimed into the air intake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
2) Could anyone please help me locate the bottom clip for the oil cooler? I'm missing that one, and the oil cooler is loose on the bottom. I did not lose it, it wasn't there when I bought it (though I didn't notice it at the time...)
Online access to a version of the EPC (electronic parts catalog):
Mercedes-Benz Teilekatalog (Ersatzteile online)

Find your clip part number, call the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine California, order the part. You'll get a nice discount if you join the MBCA, which basically will discount the cost of the shipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
5) I've noticed that the engine makes a rattling/clackety sound when I start it. When I start the engine, it sounds normal for the first two seconds, then there will be a loud(er) clacketing/tapping noise which disappears after 5 seconds. After that everything sounds normal. This happens on cold starts.
Sounds like your glow plugs initially keep the pre-chambers warm enough so that combustion is good, then cool off and some of your cylinders are firing until the normal operation of the engine warms them back up.

You could try the "purple wire mod" which will give you afterglow on every start. This will burn out your glow plugs faster, but reduce roughness and smoking on start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
6) How hard is the transmission supposed to pull? When I shift in reverse with my foot on the brake, the rear end of the car comes up noticably. When I shift in D, the rear end comes down noticably, and I can feel it pulling. I've only owned andd riven one other automatic car in my life (the one my wife drives) and it doesn't do that. Is it normal to pull quite hard?
Sounds like you may have a combination of high idle speed and bad bushings in the rear suspension, allowing a lot of travel.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
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  #110  
Old 03-21-2015, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 537
Thanks for the answers to my questions, guys! Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. I know nothing about these cars, but slowly learning as I stumble through.

@Maxbumpo
About question 6: is there a way to bring the idle down? Idle speed to me does not sound high, but I would not be able to determine that by ear anyway, as I have nothing to compare my idle speed to.

So, on my to-do list of a gazillion things, the two things that are top-priority right now are my flex discs (they have small cracks in them, unfortunately), and changing all the fluids. After that's done I could start driving it for small trips around town. I will still need to change the left rear-axle and put a new boot on the right one, but that can wait another month. I don't really care about messing up the left axle, as I've already decided I'm going to replace it. Currently it doesn't make noise, so it should hold for a few weeks of driving. It probably hasn't had a boot around it for a long time anyway.

I have no problems locating fluid for the brakes, differential and transmission, but the coolant might be a problem.

Here's why: I read online that this car is only supposed to take either Mercedes genuine coolant or Zerex G-05.
I don't know where to get the Mercedes coolant. The dealer is 6 hours away, and I can't order this online as fluids cannot be shipped to Alaska. Hazardous stuff is ground shipping only, and that's out of the question with most online stores and sellers.

I have located a store that sells Zerex G-05. But - and this is the problem - that stuff is 50/50 pre-mixed.
And that won't cut it here in winter. Lowest temperature at my house this year was a nippely -49 Fahrenheit (-45 Celcius) and the 50/50 premix only goes down to -34f.
In my daily driver I mixed my anti-freeze to 65/35 which gives protection to -63 Fahrenheit.

Since the Mercedes will be stored outside during winter, I need something in there that won't freeze up. To be on the safe side I need it to go to -55f at a minimum.

Any recommendation on what I can possibly use? What would you do yourself if you were to store your Mercedes in an industrial super-freezer for 6 months?
The sticker underneath the hood says it needs anti-freeze that doesn't corrode aluminum parts. That is the same as my Mazda specifies. Can I use the same (green) anti-freeze as I put in my Mazda?

If not, is there any other solution?

Fairbanks certainly has its challenges with the winter temperatures...

EDIT:
Apparently Ford uses the G-05 stuff in their cars as well, and there is a Ford dealership here in town, who might have the 100% G-05 stuff. I'm assuming they wouldn't sell cars with a 50/50 mix in it.
I'll call them on Monday (they are closed now), and see if I could possibly buy it there. In the mean time though I'm still open for suggestions...:-)

Last edited by Ceristimo; 03-21-2015 at 08:13 PM.
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  #111  
Old 03-22-2015, 12:57 AM
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Not wanting to start a coolant war, but I always wondered what coolant was available when these cars were new. I assume that the standard green coolant we have now is what was used in the new cars of the 80's, but better. I seriously doubt that G05 coolant was available back then as well. In talking to my radiator expert, he puts a piece of zinc (sacrificial anode) in the cars with aluminum radiators, regardless of the coolant used. I have been running nothing but the standard green coolant in all my cars since I was able to drive and work on them. I have had and worked on many 'Benzs, and have seen nothing but the green coolant in them. I have seen G05, and it definitely looks different. There is no mistaking the two. All this to say that I would (if I were in your position) just use a high ratio of green coolant in your car and be done with it. Just my .02, Rich
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  #112  
Old 03-22-2015, 06:41 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Location: central Va
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Please put your car in your avatar or signature.

1) To stop any diesel, starve the engine of air or fuel. sounds as if you have an air leak somewhere. Does the stop lever work? Does the car shut off with the key? If so, and the lever doesn't work, apply vacuum to the shut off actuator (control).

Check here for parts numbers:
Mercedes-Benz Teilekatalog (Ersatzteile online)

3) Normal, see first attachment and third, maybe better pic.

4) Depends on your car, my transmissions are as the second attachment.

5) You may have nailing issues, run a diesel purge, well, if you can get some, fluid you know. Have the injectors pop tested, not easy in your area.

6) Some, but it seems excessive, any other transmission issues?

Also, consider starting a specific thread, this one is getting long in the tooth and I'm not going to read the whole thing.
Attached Thumbnails
Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-screen-shot-2015-03-22-6.32.06-am.jpg   Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-screen-shot-2015-03-22-6.41.48-am.jpg   Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-screen-shot-2015-03-22-6.47.42-am.jpg  
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  #113  
Old 03-23-2015, 12:57 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 537
@Rollguy
Yeah, G-05 has an orange color to it. My W123 definitely has green coolant in it right now. I'll call the Ford dealer tomorrow, just to see if they would sell the G-05 stuff, but if they don't I'm just gonna drain, flush and fill 'r back up with the same stuff I have in the Mazda.

@Toomany MBZ
Thanks for your answers! Really appreciate it.

About the tranmission (question 6): The only other issue I'm having is that the transmission shifts late. I can make it shift earlier by letting the throttle up for a second and then resume acceleration. I can decide my shift points that way. I think that points to a vacuum issue, so I'll have to dig into that when the weather permits. Other then that the transmission shifts firm, but it's not like it would jar a drink out of it's cup or anything. You can feel the shifts, but it's not uncomfortable. From what I've read online, that is how they are supposed to be.

I can start a specific thread on other issues if you guys would want me to do that. I just figure I'd ask everything in the same thread, and thus kinda create a log-book of all the work done in chronological order in a centralized place. I'll make new threads on replacing the flex discs and transmission (to flush, or not to flush; that is the question...).
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  #114  
Old 12-14-2018, 07:13 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Alaska
Posts: 537
All good things must come to an end, unfortunately.

I sold Ol'Betsie a few weeks ago. Reasons for selling her was the fact I enjoyed wrenching less and less, and keeping up with the maintenance began to feel like a chore.

Although I loved driving this old Benz, it didn't make up for all the time spend lying underneath it. Also, the rust was getting worse and I had no floorpans left in the rear.

So with that, I made the difficult decision to sell. Which wasn't that easy by the way; lots of folks showed up but were scared off by the ratty interior. Other folks wanted to buy her as a cheap winter beater, but I refused to sell to them since this car does not make a good winter beater. One guy was looking for a car for his girlfriend and I told him no: Don't do this to your girlfriend, buddy. You can't use this one as a daily commuter...

Ultimately I sold her to a guy that needed an engine for his '82 300D.


So with that, this chapter has come to a close. End of the road for Ol'Betsie, but that mighty OM617 will live on.
And I still have the memories. Because I will never ever forget that one time I drove an old and tired white W123 with blue interior 350 miles home on icy roads, in the pitch black dark with terrible head lights.


So long everybody! Thanks for all the good times.


Last pic of Ol'Betsie in my driveway, right before the new owner drove off.
Attached Thumbnails
Just bought an '84 W123 300D Turbo-img_4318.jpg  
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)
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  #115  
Old 12-14-2018, 08:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: NJ
Posts: 19
I just finished skimming through this thread which you started a few years back. Sounds as if you spent a fair amount of time patching Ol'Betsie together and hopefully were able to enjoy a few good years of service from her.
I'm happy to read that you were able to live the dream of owning a W123 and that one played a role with your family in your earlier years. It's also good to read that you were able to find a suitable buyer to take Ol'Betsie to the next level.
Good luck to you, and thanks for sharing from beginning to end.
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'85 300D mine, '93 300E gave to nephew, '11 C300 hers

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