1987 300TDT Front Rubber - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

1987-300TD · #1 02-20-2015, 01:09 AM

My front end is making all kinds of noises (87 300TDT). Squeeking has been for the past several months. I am starting to hear "rattles". I believe it is all the rubber parts and bushings up front. I know it has not been done in the last 3-4 years I have owned the car and I have no service records.

I am looking to replace all the rubber stuff up front. Does anyone happen to have a shopping list?

I would also like to replace the springs as I do not know there age. Any recommendations?

Lastly, I would like to redo the same on my Wife's car, an 87 300TD. Would the same parts apply? I would also like to upgrade her to the 95 A-arms. Anyone have a how-to?

Thank You!

sixto · #2 02-20-2015, 01:34 AM

The big items are the lower control arms. You can get replacement bushings and ball joints or assembled control arms. There is no benefit to later style LCAs with integral ball joints other than clearance for bigger diameter brake rotors. Particularly if you go with a less than best quality LCAs, if a ball joint gives up, you have to replace the entire control arm. You'll also need upper strut mounts. I suppose you'll replace the struts while you're at it so plan on a set of strut bumpers - the foam tubes that fit over the damper piston rod and a set of strut dust covers if yours look damaged. I believe Bilstein offers a choice of comfort and heavy duty struts for your cars. I find comforts stiff, others find even new heavy duty's soft so do lots of research. You can go crazy with Bilstain sport and adjustable Koni struts, etc. You might have to remove the springs to count bumps on the spring pads. The best bet to restoring ride height is to get replacement pads with the same number of bumps. More bumps to raise ride height, fewer bumps to lower. Sway bar bushings are easy to replace with the suspension intact. Check first that the noise isn't a broken sway bar bracket or slipped bushing.

I can't comment on springs. Springs are springs to me. You can probably get springs custom coiled to your specs for the cost of dealer springs. IIRC performance springs such as from H&R are available.

I'm not aware of a how-to specific to fitting later LCAs on an early car. Remove old, install new. No modifications needed. If this is a DIY job, you'll need a quality spring compressor designed for MBs of the vintage. You'll also need a tool to press the bushings into place if you don't get assembled LCAs. The best quality bushing tools automatically swage the bushing sleeve but that's not difficult to do with a hammer and conical object like a lug bolt. Mind the clocking of forward and aft bushings on the LCA. If you have early build TDs, the replacement aft bushings will look different and the old ones will be hell to remove. Early LCAs aren't as picky as 123s about a ball joint tool.

Your wife has a Euro spec non-turbo '87 300TD? My guess is all the bits that fit a US TD will fit her car.

Sixto
MB-less

Lucas · #3 02-20-2015, 03:32 AM

Upper and Lower control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar kit, subframe mounts, motor mounts, tranny mount (I think Mb calls it rear motor mount), inner and outer tie rod ends, drag link, bearings and seals while you are at it. Not sure about the shocks.

Rubber brake lines and calipers? Is there any rubber in the steering column?

There's a trick with some all thread and the right combo of sockets to replace the control arm bushings. Big socket makes a base, small socket on other side pulls it through.

vstech · #4 02-20-2015, 10:18 AM

I don't recall seeing an upper control arm on the w124.

Iirc, it's LCA and strut... So, you need to replace the strut bearing and mount...

Lower ball joints make a lot of noise when they wear out.

Lucas · #5 02-20-2015, 11:23 AM

Whoops

Maxbumpo · #6 02-20-2015, 04:40 PM

Recommendation: get all the rubber bits from MB Classic Center. Using cheap aftermarket will probably result in replacing them all again in a few years. Used to be that Lemforder was dependably high quality at a good price, but I have heard that isn't true anymore.

Replace the entire lower control arm assemblies. The new assemblies will have ball joints and inner bushings already installed, saving you a HUGE amount of time and pain. The $$ outlay is higher, but your time costs money, and you'll need more special tools to replace those bits on your existing control arms. You will need a spring compressor.

New springs from MB aren't too expensive, I think about $120 for a set? I last checked over 15 years ago, they were $70 for a 123.

There are rubber spring pads on top of each spring, and rubber mounts for the top of the strut. You can test the struts once removed by see how much force is required to compress them a measured amount, the procedure is in the FSM. If they have more than 100k miles on them, probably due for replacement. Get Bilstein Comfort struts, the HD model is TOO stiff.

There is also a rubber bushing/bearing in the idler arm to check for play and replace if necessary. Don't forget the steering shock.

vstech · #7 02-20-2015, 09:04 PM

I have all the tools to rebuild the 124 control arms...

I can rebuild a ste and do an exchange for less than the classic center would charge for them...

I'm just sayn...

sixto · #8 02-20-2015, 09:24 PM

John, how do remove those @$%&! single piece 201 style aft bushings? Even on a car with absolutely no rust they got the better of me.

Sixto
MB-less

vstech · #9 02-20-2015, 10:12 PM

I bought the Baum tool... Easy peesy

1987-300TD · #10 09-27-2015, 12:02 AM

So I have yet to do this project as my world has been busy!

However, rather than just fixing the rubber, I have done more research and would like to upgrade to vented brakes. I have been reading articles but have not found a good resource for part numbers. I have looked through a bunch of the pdf's here: Index of /docs/mb/W124
Alas, I am more confused now than before reading the pdf's. :-)

So, I believe I am looking for a set of '95 Lower Control Arms. I would prefer the SportLine if possible. Does anyone have such a part number for an 87 300TDT? Are the parts identical for an 87 300D?

Also, what other parts should be replaced? I am hoping to try to get calipers from the local PnP.

Lastly, I have a client that does powder coating. Is it worth getting these parts powder coated?

Thank You In Advance!!!

babymog · #11 09-28-2015, 09:40 AM

Your front brakes are vented, both cars. Later brakes are larger and went from 2-puck to 4-puck. Rears also got larger, wagon rear brakes are larger than sedan (and in mid-94 IIRC they became vented in the rear).

The '94-up LCAs on the 124 are as Sixto mentioned, different only in clearance for the later-larger brakes, and the non-replaceable ball-joint (which if a cheap set of arms, will need replacement in a couple of years, and that will mean new LCAs again). If you can rebuild old and don't need the clearance I suggest keeping the old style.

The only difference I'm aware of between your sedan and wagon will be the size of the front anti-sway bar. Wagon is much bigger.

If you're hearing jingling over bumps, thumps and gronks, check the two anti-sway bar hangers beside the radiator area, they are prone to cracking behind the bushing. This can eventually lead to it getting loose and crunching other stuff. You will replace these every couple of years if you like to drive hard in curves, the wagon's stiffer front bar did not get upgraded hangers unfortunately.

Be sure that your steering box mounting bolts are tight while you're in there.

New springs? If they're not sagging or cracked I don't see a reason. Do look for cracks in the bottom of the spring, I've seen many with the last coil cracked (car sits low).