Tom, I'm not sure what you are describing... drain plug maybe? The 114 76 300D was the last MB diesel with a canister filter from the bottom...

The w124 603 diesel has a oil canister on the rear drivers side of the motor all on top. There is a bolt in the center that gets removed first, then the outer two nuts come off and the lid to the filter cannister comes off revealing the cartridge.

The W126 603 filter does not have the center bolt...

Op, 7.5 qts. Oil per change. Liqui-moly is decent oil.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Yes, thanks John!

I had a temporary brain fart there thinking it was a 115 when I posted that. the later style filter housing is as ideal as it can be for a canister filter. I have changed the oil with that style housing in my good clothes on more than one occasion.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'm thinking of the metal more than the sludge. But yes that it is true the more refined stuff picks it up. It essentially acts as a solvent.

I'll try to look for links, I went through it a lot time ago and honestly I'm burnt in the subject. I'm positive of what's going on, for myself.

A good place to start is researching on what synthetic really is. And look at the guys that it really matters for. Drag cars, high horsepower diesel, high performance stuff.

Magnets as in ions with a charge. Attach to other molecules easier. Think about how we filter water to remove minerals or other deposits. Same process with refining oil. It will remove more contaminants or ions. They basically got there through ionic attraction.

Just basic chemistry.

Here this guy is an oil geek.

http://youtu.be/DGirwUAMnDE

Basically sludge is oxidation, but it will also pick up other molecules, like metals, which tend to exist as poly atomic ions. Or anything with a negative charge.

Hydro cracking is the word I was trying to remember. They then re introduce hydrogen in gas state to neutrally charge the carbon chain that composes the oil. These are "synthetics"

You will also notice mobile synthesizes their package, but honestly I would beware of this concept. The guy saying it says they do to, and he's wearing the shirt. However, the product is the same, a neutrally balanced molecule with no charge.

These guys sell an Esther base oil and claim 25k on changes. Probably not for an old iron diesel that grinds away on itself. Hence why our oil change interval is so frequent.

Is that enough science? Cause I'm burnt and gonna make a quesadilla.

www.papers.sae.org/770829

It's so hard to find factual info for free. Lol.

Carbon is another thing that can be picked up by a positive charged molecule.

Here is a periodic table with typical ionic charges. You can look through the metal types in your motor, common bonds, and what molecules may be in there.

I'm looking for something on what you get typically inside a diesel motor. Like if it iron wears away it does it bond with monohydrogen phosphate? -1? Isn't a polystomic already? It's been awhile.

I'll see if I come across something. But check it out. Riveting stuff.

So, you're using conventional oil to pick up metal contaminants, then using synthetic oil to clean up the conventional oil sludge?

Frankly I think its hard to find factual information because this is a theory. If this had been proven, or even studied by any land grant research university, the information would be free and easy to find. And universities generally do a lot with lubrication and friction reduction.

Have you had oil samples tested of used oil and found higher wear metal in suspension? Versus synthetic? Then how can you say that that wear metal came from it being "magnetized" and not because the motor is wearing more with conventional oil.

I studied physics a bit in college, and have two friends who are physicists, both did work with particle attraction and they both do not see it. You are in fact using "basic chemistry" to describe a much more complicated set of events. I think there is merit to the theory which is why I pursued it, but people more qualified than I, also, do not see it. In "simple chemistry", yes those two ions would be attracted to each other.

It's been proven that synthetic oils, even the "faux" synthetics like Mobil1, reduce engine wear.

Reduced wear, and better suspension of contaminants, that would be my goal.

What you are saying to me is, I use this one oil, it allows the motor to wear more, but the wear metal "sticks" to the oil molecules, so that additional metal comes out, and yeah, that oil breaks down the sludge, so I then use a better oil to clean out the crud left behind by the previous oil. Then I start back over.

I was with you on the idea of a 'break in oil' I'm not refuting that.

That link to the "SAE papers" is dead. If you can repair the link, I would be interested to read it.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Yikes! another oil thread.

Larryyyyyyyy!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yeah I'm not playing. Someone asked. I answered. Now they can go research for themselves.

You can access those articles with a subscription usually. Pay so much a year. Etc. the answers are in there.

Or you can go ask a high performance engine builder.

But we are not experts qualified to debate this, siting friends that may know something.

That video has some good info. He explains how type 3's are forced to bond with a hydrogen molecule to make a neutral charged ion. And states mobile is a type 4. That's what gives you those properties.

Think of it this way, because this is where we agree. I take my break in process as continuing on. I want to continue picking up metal.

What I'm curious, would anyone run that fancy ams oil for 25k miles? That baffles me.

The limiting factor is soot load, MB doesn't want you to exceed 2%.

The OM60x engines produce far less soot than the OM61x engines, so you may be just fine. You can only tell by sending a sample of the oil to a lab for analysis, make sure the lab can provide a soot percentage result (not all can). Costs about $40. The soot load will vary with driver, climate, fuel, engine tune, etc., so you have to test to find out how many miles you can drive in your car before exceeding the soot load. Even if you have exceeded the soot load on this particular oil change, probably not a big deal at all.

In my '95 E300, I'm comfortable with a 15k mile OCI (or annually, whichever comes first). In my '87 300TD, I plan to do the testing, and expect that I'll end up around a 10k OCI. I prefer to use M1 0w-40 in the '95, and M1 5w-40 in the '87.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

What we really need is a ... soot magnet.

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

Ahem.

What I really need is a whole new filter setup. I flipping hate that canister. Like said earlier, drain half of it on your arm. Last time I cracked it so is started to drain. Then walked away.

Came back and still got covered. And starting the thread. My gosh.

I like that one setup with the Chevy aftermarket housing. I saw them on eBay first then saw one in that 115 617 turbo swap.

Looks convenient.

There's this couple that's a family friend. Slightly kooky, but good people. The wife is insistent on changing her oil often, the husband gets so annoyed he saves the used oil and puts it in his truck.

Good morning Daily Driver. I'm in Illinois & it was -5F at dawn today. The 'must start' diesels in my care need block heat to start in this weather, no matter what oil is used. As for an effective indicator of the condition of your new purchase, try draining the filter after you've removed it. After all the oil has drained, cut it open and examine the folds in the pleated paper. Use a bright light & a magnifying glass. You're looking for metal. The type of metal can give you an indication of what's wearing (ring/cylinder, bearings, etc). I'd start with the old filter from your first oil change, and continue for the next couple of filter changes. Oil analysis is good, but it won't show the stuff in the filter. This method, filter exam & oil analysis, is used on expensive engines and aircraft engines.

You'll get a lot of differing opinions on oil & filters on this site. The premium filters from NAPA usually come from WIX. WIX makes a very good filter.

Good luck & stay warm!

Those old 220D oil filters are a bit of a pain. I drive my 220D so much that I end up changing the oil in it every 5-6 weeks. Makes quite a mess. I've contemplated drilling a hole in the bottom of the canister, tapping it, and putting in a set-screw to act as a drain plug for it. Never quite got around to putting those ideas in motion though.

That is amazingly frequent for a 220d. How many miles do you drive between oil changes? Are you really putting 30,000 miles or more per year on a 220d? Awesome!

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).