Hi,

I am facing another unexpected problem again on this W140 diesel recently bought. I can't remove the oil filter cap. It hit the firewall and has no space to maneuver, did I miss anything? I have been working on my own cars for almost 10 years. This W140 gave me more problems than all other cars...




Thank you.

Can't see the photos, you removed the middle shaft first right?

Weird, I can see the picture myself. I feel so dumb after seeing your reply. I found few videos on youtube and none of them removed middle shaft. But all of them were on W126 OM603. I will try again tomorrow morning. Thank you for your reply.

The center shaft is there for a reason. The fire wall is in the way and you cannot pull the cap out. It is the same for the W124 but not the W126 ( no center shaft ). Unscrew it and that is it.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Huh now I can see the photos too, no worries it took some figuring for me the first time around as well. Isn't it nice not having to crawl under the car and take an oil bath to change the filter?

Welcome to the world of MB

Yes, you pull the central stem first then take the cover off. If you take the stem out, start draining (or extracting through the dipstick), then come back and take the cover off, you should not drip any oil. Wait until the engine is mostly drained before pulling out the filter.

Don't forget to renew the o-rings on the stem and cover, and you have a copper crush washer under the central stem bolt on top of the lid. These come with your oil filter kit.

That can is under full oil pressure, if you don't have something sealed up properly you will discharge all your oil in short order.

"Oil bath" yeah I have an 04 CR-V, I hate changing the oil in that thing. The &^^% filter is up high on the back side of the block, right above the exhaust pipe. To make it worse, the axis of the filter is parallel to the ground. Car smells like it needs its rings replaced for a week afterward. I have had many Hondas, for some reason all their transverse 4-cyl engines are set up this way.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Problem solved this morning. I was able to change the filter in ten minutes. Since this is the first diesel car I own, is it normal to see the fresh engine oil (Shell Rotella T6) I put in yesterday turns completely black this morning? It never happens on my gas car before. I assume previous owner didn't do much maintenance on this baby, should I do another oil change after say 1000 miles to flush? Or it is common for diesel engine?

Thanks!

Black is normal, something to do with the soot produced through combustion. The same stuff you blow out the tailpipe I think... could be wrong.

The black oil is from whatever oil was left in the oil cooler that was not drained plus what might have washed down from the head area, so normal in that respect.

You're both right (CarpeDiem and PartsCarver)

Soot deposition in the lube oil is normal in a Diesel engine. It will turn totally black very quickly.

Also you are dealing with not getting 100% drainage especially the oil cooler in front of the LF tire.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

I have an 87 300D. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement center bolt for the oil filter cap? Mine has the head all messed up on it and I was unable to get it loose the first time I changed the oil. I took some of the covers off of the firewall and was lucky enough to be able to get it out with the center bolt still in the cap. I don't recall it being easy though.

I have a spare I got because all my 124's have buggered center bolts...

none as bad as yours sounds... so if you'd like, I can send you my slightly buggered one when I swap out the perfect one I scored in the junkyard...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

That would be great. When you get ready to do that let me know and I would be willing to pay any shipping and give you something for your trouble also.


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Since new to diesels, insure you use "diesel oil", i.e. w/ CJ rating. I understand it has more detergents to better suspend the carbon (soot). Many people use it in gasoline cars as well. Rotella is one common brand. Comes in 4 or 5 qt jugs, usually in a separate section at auto parts. Also, change the filter every time, as you are doing. Since soot is the limiter in diesels, I would rather use cheaper oil and change it more often (3-4K miles) than use synthetic.