Recommendation on a new ground strap cable - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Fulcrum525 · #1 03-03-2015, 09:18 PM

Looks like the ground strap connection went out again on my 300GD. I know that it caused a 'No start' situation the other week but earlier when I went to start it I lost all power to everything. Thankfully the truck was warm, the glow plugs fired and I was pointing downhill so I roll started it very easily.

I want to go ahead and replace the entire cable sooner then I was hopeing (nice warm spring weather) Does anyone know of a decent quality cable which I can source from a local source?

SirNik84 · #2 03-03-2015, 09:32 PM

My 1950 GMC had a ground strap that was braided copper about the same length as the one on my SD (not sure of the length on the GD). Seeing as the 1950 was a 6v system I bet the ground strap would be overkill for the GD. I'm not sure how prevalent it would be, but seeing as its an American truck, they my just have it at a local parts house. Might be worth looking at.

Charlie Foxtrot · #3 03-04-2015, 01:01 PM

Down & dirty quick fix to hold you to warmer weather:
Go to your parts store & pick up one (or more) 4 AWG "starter cable" w/eyes at both ends (they were used on Fords from the solenoid to the starter - should be $5-$10/ea). It needs to be long enough to reach from your battery to the engine block. I like using the bolt(s) holding the engine lifting eye(s) at the back of the block as an attachment point. The cable(s) need to have some slack to accomodate the engine movement. Attach the battery end of the new cable(s) at the bolt in the fender/frame where the stock negative battery cable is attached (or at the battery post clamp). I like using two. It gets cold at home, and I like all the current carrying capability for those cold starts.

Charlie Foxtrot · #4 03-04-2015, 05:29 PM

A good source for a semi custom made cable would be a welding supply shop, or alternatively, a shop that makes battery cables for semi trucks. In any event, you'll need "Four Ought" (aka 4/0 or '0000') stranded 'welding' or 'locomotive' cable with an apropriately sized 'eye' crimped onto each end. I like to 'tin' the ends of the conductor before attaching & crimping the fitting (stops moisture from wicking up the conductor). After you have the 'eyes' crimped onto your cable, seal up the joint between the cable and the eye's sleeve. 'Liquid tape' works well, or you can use an epoxy compound designed for sealing underwater cables. This gives you a fighting chance against moisture (and the dreaded road salt) getting into the joint. Good luck!

vstech · #5 03-04-2015, 05:36 PM

Any auto parts store will have a similar braided cable to stock. Napa will have better ones... truck pro or similar diesel parts stores will have better still.

Fulcrum525 · #6 03-04-2015, 08:50 PM

Well in a classic case of 'as it turns out' the negative ground terminal is actually OK.

I cut the connection and rewired the negative terminal but it didn't do anything. I turned the key to the accessory position, engaged the turn signal and played around with the wires on the starter solenoid. Sure enough one of them had a bad connection. I loosened the nut and pulled the wire off and the connector broke off right in my fingers. I tried to pull the old wires out of the connector to reuse it but the thing is built like a tank. I picked up a new connector and crimping tool at Advance auto rippoff zone. Tomorrow I'll be putting everything together. Pictures to follow in a few minutes.

crashone · #7 03-04-2015, 10:11 PM

Cheaper and more fun to source: The Junkyard. Man look at all of the parts is parts cars and trucks laying around, take your pick and start wrenching. No telling what other parts you will find "while you're out there". Have fun.

charmalu · #8 03-05-2015, 02:02 AM

I agree with finding some good parts in the JY. I have found some new battery cables.

There is a certain model BMW that has the battery in the Trunk. cable runs up the Pass side to the engine compartment, is 12ft long and about the size of my thumb.

PNP charges $5 for cables. $5 for a 12ft cable....not too bad.

I should grab a few more before they wise up and raise the price.

I just used one to make new cables for this 86 F250 6.9 Diesel I have.
dang thing has 2 batteries, and the old cables were pretty swelled up and corroded. Dealer wanted $265 for a new set, but NLA.
Cut the cable to the proper lengths, crimped on new ends, and we were back in business.....for $40.

Charlie

mytmousemalibu · #9 03-05-2015, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

I agree with finding some good parts in the JY. I have found some new battery cables.

There is a certain model BMW that has the battery in the Trunk. cable runs up the Pass side to the engine compartment, is 12ft long and about the size of my thumb.

PNP charges $5 for cables. $5 for a 12ft cable....not too bad.

I should grab a few more before they wise up and raise the price.

I just used one to make new cables for this 86 F250 6.9 Diesel I have.
dang thing has 2 batteries, and the old cables were pretty swelled up and corroded. Dealer wanted $265 for a new set, but NLA.
Cut the cable to the proper lengths, crimped on new ends, and we were back in business.....for $40.

Charlie

FYI, Basically all BMW's since the early 90's have had trunk mounted batteries. Some were under the rear seat then and earlier which were still nice long cables still. And any of the BMW's that have cables with the battery terminals with the vertical tensioning bolt (10mm socket), those are really nice plated solid copper terminals! Good heavy duty German quality terminals, they always tighten very good and release easily and never seen one fail or go bad! Only problem is they aren't removable from the cable really. And the later cars, the positive is a pyrotechnic safety, blows the connection apart on impact so as to reduce fire hazard. BST cables have a plastic shroud and small wires to them, easy to identify. Cable is still good though!

I also have an 86' Ford but F-350 w/6.9L, dually, 4spd, 68K miles, just put batteries in it last week! Nice truck! Just wish I had a spare ZF 5 or 6spd to put in it, it wasn't mean't to go faster than 55

Fulcrum525 · #10 03-05-2015, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashone

Cheaper and more fun to source: The Junkyard. Man look at all of the parts is parts cars and trucks laying around, take your pick and start wrenching. No telling what other parts you will find "while you're out there". Have fun.

Oh I completely agree! Unfortunately pick in pulls were banned in CT until only a few months ago. Also the only one close to me is clear across the state and wouldn't be worth the time and fuel. Ironically I have a full W126 parts car but it's at my parents house which is over an hour away and I need the truck tomorrow (No time to mess around) When I do replace the entire ground cable i'll likely get it from that car.

‘Pick and pull’ salvage yard to open in Montville | WTNH

With that said, below is the picture of the old connector....which is built like a tank. I tried to remove the old wires but there is no way that was going to happen (I gave up after 30 minutes of pounding and not a single mm on movement)

I'm not particularly thrilled about the made in China replacement which is more folded and rolled rather then built. I have no doubts that it will work but I do question how long it will hold for. Also seen below is the ratcheting crimping tool. My first thought was to use it once and return it (They don't rent them) But i've been playing around with it and I think i'll be hanging onto it for future (And inevitable) electrical work.

charmalu · #11 03-06-2015, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mytmousemalibu

FYI, Basically all BMW's since the early 90's have had trunk mounted batteries. Some were under the rear seat then and earlier which were still nice long cables still. And any of the BMW's that have cables with the battery terminals with the vertical tensioning bolt (10mm socket), those are really nice plated solid copper terminals! Good heavy duty German quality terminals, they always tighten very good and release easily and never seen one fail or go bad! Only problem is they aren't removable from the cable really. And the later cars, the positive is a pyrotechnic safety, blows the connection apart on impact so as to reduce fire hazard. BST cables have a plastic shroud and small wires to them, easy to identify. Cable is still good though!

I also have an 86' Ford but F-350 w/6.9L, dually, 4spd, 68K miles, just put batteries in it last week! Nice truck! Just wish I had a spare ZF 5 or 6spd to put in it, it wasn't mean't to go faster than 55

I don`t know much about the BMW`s. I think the 2 I got the cables out of were the same model. the cable has the Terminal for the post. I used that end for the driver side battery on the Ford. Ran it across the front to the pass side battery, then slipped on a long piece of red Heat Shrink tubing (Pos cable). Crimped on ends for a bolt terminal end. The cable from the Starter to the battery I saved, has that special plastic molded piece that bolts to the body or engine.

I have the 3:55 Diff. and 209K. 2 tone primer N rust. LOL.

ZF-5 would be nice.

send me via pm your e-mail, give you the long rundown on the education of the Ford and it`s 6.9 engine, that I have learned since last July.

I had the guy at Carquest cut n crimp the cables. part of the 40 some $ was $25 for labor. the guy is getting paid his hourly wage, then charges me for labor.

The O`Riley here in Gardnerville, has bent over backwards to help me, and one guy had me over to his shop to work on the vacuum pump.

appologize about the Hi-jack.

now back to our scheduled program.

Hey FULCRUM525 how much was the Crimper tool? Does it work ok?
The guy I had do my cables had a long handle one he used.

Too bad your PNP`s are so far away.
When I lived in Ca the closest was 25 miles and the far end was 50 miles, unless I went to Sacramento, then 150 miles. Now that yard is about 4 hrs away.

Now my closest is Carson City about 35 miles or Sparks, about 50 or so miles. They gave one MB in Carson since last may. Things don`t move much out here.

Charlie

vstech · #12 03-06-2015, 11:09 AM

I have and LOVE the crimper at harborfreight...

Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

it's hydraulic and it comes with several die sizes...

vstech · #13 03-06-2015, 11:11 AM

as for ends... I like the ends that are tinned from napa, or the diesel truck supply house.

Fulcrum525 · #14 03-07-2015, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

Hey FULCRUM525 how much was the Crimper tool? Does it work ok?
The guy I had do my cables had a long handle one he used.

Too bad your PNP`s are so far away.......

Charlie

$34. I would say that it would work good for small jobs but it definitely was NOT meant to crimp a fitting of this size. The largest crimping section was still too small (Yellow dot above) even when I reversed the "teeth" to bring it to the outside edge. I could not squeeze the tool to get anywhere near the first ratchet. In the end I improvised and removed the top section and just crimped the fitting against the body of the tool. Then I switched the tool around and crimped the other side in the same fashion. It wasn't pretty, perfect or preferred but it did work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have and LOVE the crimper at harborfreight...

Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

it's hydraulic and it comes with several die sizes...

As much as I try to stay away from Harbor Freight I know that there are indeed tools that they sell which are good. If this crimper ever falls apart I'll consider this hydraulic unit for all of the reasons that I mentioned above.

The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread... - The Garage Journal Board

cho · #15 03-08-2015, 05:59 AM

.

I used one from HP server rack.....

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