i need to replace my motor mounts and i have a few questions.

can i use a floor jack with a piece of wood on the oil pan to raise the motor enough to remove the bad ones?

does something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Offset-Engine-Socket-Wrench/dp/B008NZSF2O make the job easier?

i'm thinking LONG extensions to get the breaker bar over the height of the motor to break them loose?

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

You can use the Jack with a piece of Board under the Oil pan but you can only raise the Engine about 1 1/2"; 2" at the most till the Bell Housing makes contact with the Fire Wall. Once you make contact you start to lifting the whole Car and risk denting the Oil Pan and worse cracking the Oil Pump Pickup Tube which is made of cast Aluminum.

But it actually does not take much to make room for the Motor Mounts.

I have no idea what that Tool in the link is for. I changed My Motor Mounts with out it and the most exotic Tool I used was an Allen Wrench Socket on an Extension that had ends so it swivled to remove the Allen Head Screws from the Heat Sheild.

you will need a 7mm open end wrench to get at the Engine Shock Absorber as on the shaft there is are 2 flats to slide the wrench into.

Don't do what I did. I though I could use an impact wrench to snatch off the Nut from the Shaft. Unfotunately the Shaft inside of the Shock is threaded and I ruined a good shock when the Shaft untreaded from the inside and the shaft and Oil came out. Use the 7mm open end Wrench to couter hold when removing the Nut.

For more detailed instructions Repair Links:
Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If this is the 2.5, it's not too different from this - Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes-Benz W124 - Replacing Engine Mounts

I forget whether the bottom bolts take an 8mm or 10mm hex bit. The tool is useful on the passenger side with the turbo in the way. Straight shot on the driver side. Mind how you lift the engine. You don't want to tear the plastic fittings off the radiator.

If this is the 2.5 there's no separate shock.

Sixto
MB-less

thanks for the replies. i have searched the online fsm at w124zone, and i cant find any mention of the procedure except the "function of hydraulic engine mount"

what is the torque for the bolts?

also i see them ranging in price from $30-$80. what are the differences?

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

You want a substantial piece of wood, think 2x10 or 2x12 long enough to span the entire flat part of the pan.

Make sure you are totally on the flat part of the pan.

If you have a "rapid pump" floor jack go real slow and careful, one stroke is too much lift.

I would recomend draining the coolant first, and detaching the radiator hoses, just so you don't take any chances on stressing the plastic necks on the radiator.

That gives you a good excuse to go ahead and pull the radiator out and clean all the trash between the radiator and condenser.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

People do with less but you I think you only need enough to cover the whole Steel Pan with perhaps some excess.

I have two 1 foot square 3/4" pieces of Plywood that I glued and also nailed together that I used.

Remember you are only lifting part of the Engine Weight as part of the weight is supported by the Transmission Mount. When you jack up the Engine part of the weigh shifts to the Rear and on the Transmission Mount.

I have read of people using section of 4x4 a bit longer then the Steel Pan.

I think there is pics of what the previous owner did to My Oil Pan jacking up the Engine too far in this thread and from the indentation on the Pan It looks like the Previous Owner used a 4x4 or 2x4. The 1 square foot or so of Plywood spreads the load out acrossed the Pan more and doubling it makes it thick enough.
Turbo Drain and Blow-by Drain Seal Replacement; Mein Kampf - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Note that the reason I have that Plywood made like that is I keep it in My Trunk. If I had to pull over on the Dirt to change a Tire without the double layeres of the 3/4" Plywood when you try to Jack up the Car the Jack is going to sink into the Dirt instead of lifting the Car.
Meaning if you make one you also can keep it in the Trunk for use with the Jack.

Also I would not used that Plywood that is made of Wood chips glued together. You need the multidirectional laminations to make it stiff and spread the load.

I also think a Floor Jack is better because the head of the Jack is wide and also spreads the load a crossed the Wood although a Scissors jack would also work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel