'85 300D U joint replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 03-08-2015, 08:37 PM

My brother and I pulled the driveshaft out of his '85 300D the other day to replace the center support bearing. He thought that was where the noise/vibration was coming from, but found out that the U joint was making noise, and the bearing/carrier was fine. He called the local driveline shop, and they said that the U joint is not replaceable because it is staked in. They do not have any way to center the new U joint once the old one is removed, or a good way to stake it in. He said there are some Nissan shafts that are the same, and there is a company in New York that can do the job. Is it possible that I need to get an entire new shaft? I have a used one on a parts car, but have not checked it yet to see if it is good. Anyone got any ideas? Either way, we have the tools and ability to replace the support and bearing, so that will get done even if the parts car shaft is good.....Rich

Carpenterman · #2 03-08-2015, 09:10 PM

Hey, Rich. They are indeed replaceable and without too much trouble. The U joint is available from that auto parts place in Arizona for around $15. The R&R was a success on my wagon and is working fine after 5 months.

Careful measurements of the bearing cap insert is all that is needed to get it centered.

Here's the best thread on the subject"

Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

ROLLGUY · #3 03-08-2015, 09:49 PM

Thanks for the link. After reading the 7 pages, I think I will take on the job. I already have the parts (U joint and center bearing/support), and they were supplied by our sponsor (Pelican Parts).....Rich

charmalu · #4 03-08-2015, 10:16 PM

I had San Jose Drive Line do my U-Joint. They had the Stakes machined out.
and then used a Mustang U-Joint that is grease able.
Probably a standard Ford joint used in other applications.

They replaced the end centering Bushings and the center support rubber and Bearing.

A lot of these Drive Line shops say they can`t balance the MB Shafts, but this shop can.

They used a junk center support, and 33K miles later the rubber was torn about all the way around.
Replaced it with a Fibi from Pelican, and it is a China made part. Think that is probably what was used the first time.
Keeping my eye on this one.

Next one will be from MB.

Charlie.

Diesel911 · #5 03-09-2015, 03:58 PM

Not very many have done their own but I did.

Note that the sides of the U-joint are machined flat and you can measuer the Distance from the outside Flats if each Yoke and that give the overall distance and you can use that to calculate how far the U-joint Bearing Caps need to be pressed in. Note that the U-joint companies have websites you can go to and they will say the bearing Caps spacing on the site.

If you have the same joint you can measure with Depth Mike or less precisely with a Vernier Caliper or even a small Machinist Ruller that goes down to 64s the distance from the outside flat on the Yoke to the Bearing.

I did a rather sloppy job of that particular measuerment and I still have had no issues. However, I am a low milage driver.

Staking did not prove to be too much of a problem with a sharp pointed Center Punch ground to a sharper angled point. I don't think it take much to hold the Bearings in. I have checked mine ever time I am under there and none of the Bearings appears to have moved.

Benzworld U-joint stuff part number is 900 410 00 31 (it is a made in Japan GMB U-joint part number 220-7289 #2 post has info
Another U-Joint / Driveshaft Thread - Mercedes-Benz Forum

My U-joint replacement on Driveshaft at peachparts
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

There is also another thread from way back on this Forum by someone else.

Diesel911 · #6 03-09-2015, 04:04 PM

Not very many have done their own but I did.

Note that the sides of the U-joint are machined flat and you can measuer the Distance from the outside Flats if each Yoke and that give the overall distance and you can use that to calculate how far the U-joint Bearing Caps need to be pressed in. Note that the U-joint companies have websites you can go to and they will say the bearing Caps spacing on the site.

If you have the same joint you can measure with Depth Mike or less precisely with a Vernier Caliper or even a small Machinist Ruller that goes down to 64s the distance from the outside flat on the Yoke to the Bearing.

I did a rather sloppy job of that particular measuerment and I still have had no issues. However, I am a low milage driver.

Staking did not prove to be too much of a problem with a sharp pointed Center Punch ground to a sharper angled point. I don't think it take much to hold the Bearings in. I have checked mine ever time I am under there and none of the Bearings appears to have moved.

Benzworld U-joint stuff part number is 900 410 00 31 (it is a made in Japan GMB U-joint part number 220-7289 #2 post has info
Another U-Joint / Driveshaft Thread - Mercedes-Benz Forum

My U-joint replacement on Driveshaft at peachparts
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

There is also another thread from way back on this Forum by someone else.

ROLLGUY · #7 03-09-2015, 08:31 PM

We put the shaft from my parts car in my bro's 300D today. He called a couple more shops and found two that can do the complete job. One quoted $250 using the parts already purchased (center bearing/support, U joint). One also said for $300 he could get a completely new shaft with a guarantee. I think the best thing to do would be to use the new parts on the shaft from the parts car (me doing the work), and have my bro just buy the $300 shaft. That way I could get the experience rebuilding the shaft, and have one available for my car when it goes bad. Good idea? What say you?

Carpenterman · #8 03-09-2015, 09:08 PM

Sounds like a plan--if you don't mind shelling out $300 for the new shaft. How is the shaft from the parts car working. So you replaced the U-joint?

I have to say that judging from the number of posts relating to vibrating shafts and my own frustrating experience, the MB driveline is very prone to wear and/or maladjustment. I've never had as much trouble with my other cars as I've had with my MBs in this regard.

ROLLGUY · #9 03-09-2015, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carpenterman

Sounds like a plan--if you don't mind shelling out $300 for the new shaft. How is the shaft from the parts car working. So you replaced the U-joint?

We just put the entire used shaft in the car. It is a little better, but the shifter still vibrates a little. When I had the shaft off, I could feel a little flat spot in the joint when I moved it back and forth. The other shaft had a distinct clicking sound when moved the same way. I did not want to put any new parts on the used shaft, but wanted to save them for the shaft that came out of my bro's car to have me or someone else rebuild it.

Diesel911 · #10 03-09-2015, 09:31 PM

See Post #32.

Sticking U-joint causes Vibration damages several Drive Shaft Supports turns out to be Rusty Needle Bearings
W123 Propeller shaft vibration tears up rubber mounts, replaced nearly everything

charmalu · #11 03-09-2015, 10:02 PM

I have pull a few shafts out of PNP cars and my own. Every one of them had that notchy flat spot feel.
These things are getting in the 250K - 300K mile range, and things do wear out.

The MB Shaft doesn`t get a lot of movement, as the transmission and the Differential are pretty solid in their mountings.
There has to be some movement with the torque of the engine on the engine mounts and trans mounts.

These U-joints have been in these cars since they left the factory, the youngest the 85 is 30 years. I guess this is a good live span for a part that has not seen grease since it was built.

Charlie