HELP?!! 81 300SD leaks from filter lid

[sdnewbie]

Hopefully somebody can give some advice on this. My 300sd has been running like a champ but recently needed a new alternator and water pump. After replacing those when I started the car and went to give it fuel the o ring around the oil filter canister lid blew out, spewing oil everywhere. Seeing how it was about time for an oil change I purchased new filter o ring and oil. When I pulled the lid off one of the threaded studs used to secure it to the canister complete broke around the cast metal area it threads into. Luckily I have an 83 SD I use for parts. After swapping oil filter canisters, I replaced the o rings on the center shaft going through the filter and made sure the center shafts oil feeder line is clear...I can blow air thru it now. I replaced the big o ring under the lid with one that came with the filter. However this new o ring seems loose, falls out when I turn it upside down etc....overall doesn't fit snug like i feel its supposed too. When i try starting the car now everytime i gisve it gas the o ring blows out spewing oil too. Having tried combinations of other o rings and canister lids i have lying around, with no discernable difference and complete o ring failure. I have been looking at a few videos about oil changes on these cars and the o ring for the lid looks much thicker and snugs up nicely in the filter lids groove. So as it seems not to fall out when put back into the car. I'm going to investigate this o ring business today at the parts store and whatnot but if anyone has experienced something similar or the same, has any idea what could be happening here aside from the o ring under lid. You're time and input would be appreciated. Thank you

[vstech]

Hastings oil filters have better o rings in their box. Mann filters o rings fit well also.

To prevent the bolts from breaking, snug them to contact only. Do NOT reef on them.

[sdnewbie]

KI replaced the big o ring under the lid with one that Napa swapped out for me its an appropriate thickness but smaller I n diameter....so I had to stretch it a little to get it to fit inside the lid. It almost gets up to pressure this time longest yet. Still it blows out the side of the lid. Frustrated beyond belief I spend the next 4 hours carefully adjusting the oil level in the crank case. At a little below the bottom mark on the dipstick the o ring under the filter lid holds. I remove the oil filler cap, to release any unnecessary internal pressure and rev the piss out of the motor, holding it at times in a high rpm state. getting the engine warm and idling then shut it off. At this point when get out to inspect the filter canister and lid I noticed a gurgling sound like air slowly escaping coming from inside the oil filler cap hole. Trying to ascertain if it's a cracked head, block, or heading gasket I continue starting it reving hard for 30secs and then listening for the air escaping/gurgling sound. Here's the thing I don't hear said gurgling noise anymore when I shut off the motor and I can actually hear oil draining through the block now back to the pan. Also it runs a little hot with horrible compression and power. I attribute this to lack of oil I'm gonna get some more today and see but I'm pretty sure there might have been a clogged oil passage inside the block/head maybe? Either way I'll find out later. Thanks again for any advice

[charmalu]

I use the Mann Filters, the "O" Ring stays on the lid when reinstalling it.

I have used Wix Filters, but the "O" Ring will fall off when putting the lid back on.

I think Napa and some other Mc Parts stores use the Wix filters with their store label on them.

I have never had a leak at the Lid, or removed the lid when the engine is running, or ever heard it gurgle.

The 2 13mm lit nuts, do not crank down on them or you will strip the steel stud in the aluminum housing.
Just snug them down, don`t remember the FT Lbs. I just hold the ratchet by the head and tighten it.



Charlie

[toomany MBZ]

The torque value is shown below.