2005-2006 E320 CDI Buyers Guide, Common Problems, & Roll Call - Page 18 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MB_FanAddict · #**256** 04-26-2017, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorje

The dealer used Castrol 0-40 synthetic but I need to top it up. I always used Delo which is specific for diesels in my pickups. I haven't checked the Castrol but seems oil for diesels have a different rating from oils for gas engines. What's the recommended oil for this car?

Mileage: on a 500 mile trip last week down to the wild flower bloom in S Ca I got a little over 35/mpg. 3/4quarters of it open hyw at 80mph. I was hoping for closer to 40 which is what the computer registers. Maybe if I slowed down the mpgs would go up? Or is this what I should expect?

The OM648 oil spec ranges from 228.3 to 229.52 (SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40 recommended). You should be able to easily source MB/diesel (229.5) rated Mobil, Pennzoil or Castrol 0-40 synthetic oil. I've yet to need to top off mine between yearly (7kmi) services.

I've found the trip computer is around 6% optimistic on my car. Yes, you'll need to slow down if you want better mileage. Still, 35mpg (allowing a 700 mile cruising range) is not bad! The revised EPA rating is 23/33.

shertex · #**257** 04-26-2017, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MB_FanAddict

I've found the trip computer is around 6% optimistic on my car. Yes, you'll need to slow down if you want better mileage. Still, 35mpg (allowing a 700 mile cruising range) is not bad! The revised EPA rating is 23/33.

About 10% optimistic on mine. Can be recalibrated if desired. Wow, that new EPA rating is pretty conservative! I'm not at all careful and I get close to 32 combined....37 on highway with ease.

chronometers · #**258** 04-26-2017, 12:28 PM

About same mileage here too.

miniion26 · #**259** 05-08-2017, 01:32 PM

Picked up this beauty from Hickory, NC while on a business trip.Happy so far, it had 111 111 on the dot. Florida car, with all records. Did all the maintenance just in case, and got a stage 1 Rocketchip last month.

6_Myles · #**260** 05-21-2017, 07:13 PM

Hi All,

Just purchased an 05 CDI from my brother, 200k fairly well maintenanced for $5k....so I thought it was a deal. I've had my 98 E300TD for quite a bit now, so I'm fairly familiar with the 722.6 and I just just want to make sure I've got my bases covered for my once over next week:

Things to check specific to the CDI:
Black Death
Sensomatic Brake System
Doesn't have the fancy key system

Normal Mercedes Stuff:
Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Change All fluids/filters

Missing anything? Thanks,and I really enjoyed all 18 pages of this thread as a primer for w211 ownership!

dorje · #**261** 05-25-2017, 08:14 PM

Red Lights out and it won't close the lid. Pulled it out. The brown/yellow wire is hot, the grey/yellow becomes hot if I depress the switch, but the blue/white still doesn't get power. I think there is a break in the hot wire at the plug to the switch, if I move it around sometimes the brown yellow wire looses power. But not being able to power the blue white wire when I depress the switch makes me think I also have a bad switch.
I think the blue/white activates the trunk closer. And the brown/yellow electrifies the switch generally plus the light? But what does the Grey/yellow do?
All the other trunk lid lights work, license plate lights etc
Maybe someone could point me to a color coded layout of the trunk please.
2005e320, cdi

compress ignite · #**262** 06-01-2017, 12:22 AM

https://www.google.com/search?q=SBC+reset+tool&oq=SBC+reset+tool&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5897j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

jay_bob · #**263** 06-01-2017, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorje

Red Lights out and it won't close the lid. Pulled it out. The brown/yellow wire is hot, the grey/yellow becomes hot if I depress the switch, but the blue/white still doesn't get power. I think there is a break in the hot wire at the plug to the switch, if I move it around sometimes the brown yellow wire looses power. But not being able to power the blue white wire when I depress the switch makes me think I also have a bad switch.
I think the blue/white activates the trunk closer. And the brown/yellow electrifies the switch generally plus the light? But what does the Grey/yellow do?
All the other trunk lid lights work, license plate lights etc
Maybe someone could point me to a color coded layout of the trunk please.
2005e320, cdi

Best thing to do is go on EBay and get one of the boot leg WIS/ASRA DVD sets and install it on an old junker laptop (I'm using an old HP from 2010 that was my son's from middle school, slow but it works). Unfortunately the documentation for the 211 is not available online like the older models.

In the absence of data I would start looking at the wire pack where it flexes coming into the trunk lid. I suspect your broken wire will be there.

MTUpower · #**264** 06-01-2017, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorje

Red Lights out and it won't close the lid. Pulled it out. The brown/yellow wire is hot, the grey/yellow becomes hot if I depress the switch, but the blue/white still doesn't get power. I think there is a break in the hot wire at the plug to the switch, if I move it around sometimes the brown yellow wire looses power. But not being able to power the blue white wire when I depress the switch makes me think I also have a bad switch.
I think the blue/white activates the trunk closer. And the brown/yellow electrifies the switch generally plus the light? But what does the Grey/yellow do?
All the other trunk lid lights work, license plate lights etc
Maybe someone could point me to a color coded layout of the trunk please.
2005e320, cdi

The trunk closer wires are on the left side of the trunk running along the left hinge. You can see them in a protective covering. You'll need to remove some of the cladding and get into the wires themselves and see which wires are parted. The trunk closing causes chafing and this chafing eventually causes one or more wire to fail. I've had the same issue and it's an simple fix taking a couple hours at most.

The goofy part to me is that there is no remote trunk closing; they should have put one inside the car or on the key fob.

dorje · #**265** 06-01-2017, 10:31 AM

I did find 3 broken wires, spliced them and alls well.
I did use the remote switch on the door while figuring out the fix
Thanks all for the tips.

ROLLGUY · #**266** 06-01-2017, 10:55 PM

I sold my Desert Silver CDI to my niece (trans went out on her 300CD, so she needed a car). I was originally looking for a blue one, but got a good deal on the Desert Silver one, so I bought it. I found a nice Platinum Blue one in Albuquerque. I got a one way plane ticket and the seller picked me up at the airport. We made a deal, and I drove it back to CA. I stopped at my favorite restaurant for dinner on the way home. This one has some minor issues, but nothing I can't handle. Overall, it is quite nice.....Rich

MTUpower · #**267** 06-02-2017, 08:38 AM

nice!

dorje · #**268** 07-07-2017, 09:20 PM

The glow plug indicator light didn't go out in a second or two on the first start in the am. The first time I cycled the key a few times then it went out and started and ran fine although the "check engine light" came on and stays on. the next morning the key cycling didn't work but If I start her up anyway it does go out in a few seconds. My only car and needed to use it.
My MBi980 scanner says "check wires between the control module and # 6 plug" and I'll test the plug out tomorrow first.

After reading about all the broken glow plug problems I'm pretty nervous about doing it myself. But I've worked on a lot of cars over the year( Porches and Jags) so feel I ought to at least give it a try.

I could use a few suggestions. I plan on wd40 around the plugs over night, then warm up the engine first. I have a torque wrench. So I wont over torque but it seems they break anyway sometimes.

The other thing I'd like to do first is remove the wires from the control module and add some diaelectric paste see if its a contact problem. But can't seem to get the wires out. what's the trick?
ANd on the glow plugs do the connectors just pull straight off like a regular spark plug? They sure don't seem to want to come off.

And last are there any good references or utube videos.

ROLLGUY · #**269** 07-07-2017, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorje

The glow plug indicator light didn't go out in a second or two on the first start in the am. The first time I cycled the key a few times then it went out and started and ran fine although the "check engine light" came on and stays on. the next morning the key cycling didn't work but If I start her up anyway it does go out in a few seconds. My only car and needed to use it.
My MBi980 scanner says "check wires between the control module and # 6 plug" and I'll test the plug out tomorrow first.

After reading about all the broken glow plug problems I'm pretty nervous about doing it myself. But I've worked on a lot of cars over the year( Porches and Jags) so feel I ought to at least give it a try.

I could use a few suggestions. I plan on wd40 around the plugs over night, then warm up the engine first. I have a torque wrench. So I wont over torque but it seems they break anyway sometimes.

The other thing I'd like to do first is remove the wires from the control module and add some diaelectric paste see if its a contact problem. But can't seem to get the wires out. what's the trick?
ANd on the glow plugs do the connectors just pull straight off like a regular spark plug? They sure don't seem to want to come off.

And last are there any good references or utube videos.

If you are talking about a CDI, then the plugs are fairly easy compared to a 606.

MB_FanAddict · #**270** 07-07-2017, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorje

And last are there any good references or utube videos.

Here's a tutorial: [How To] 2006 E320 CDI Glow Plug Replacement

(Note: only use Buru 5V glow plugs)

Torque values:
Glow plugs: 19 Nm (Do not exceed 35 Nm when removing)

Engine cover screws (T30 torx): 9 Nm