Well it happened to me - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 03-16-2015, 11:18 AM

I think the only user able way to rebuild these hoses is with bolt and band clamps, NOT screw clamps. the problem with BIB clamps is they have to be the EXACT correct size, and the oil cooler hose is very thick, and hard. I wonder if PEX rings would be the correct size... maybe the 1" size?

moon161 · #17 03-16-2015, 11:55 AM

Euro 240D = No oil cooler

JB3 · #18 03-16-2015, 12:24 PM

How many of us have encountered blown engines due to oil cooler hack repairs? Ive seen 2.

Yes, the job sucks on a 300D or SD, can take a number of hours, you will get incredibly filthy, and you will go through the dictionary of swears.

Replacing the part with a new set of lines is still a hell of a lot better than blowing a motor via a 5 cent hose clamp.

sixto · #19 03-16-2015, 02:40 PM

Are the ends of the oil cooler line fittings beaded? If not, shouldn't they be beaded or at least flared before replacing with rubber hose?

$5 DIY internal bead forming tool for small tubing - The Garage Journal Board

Sixto
MB-less

BillGrissom · #20 03-16-2015, 03:12 PM

Sorry for your experience, but thanks for relating. In my 1984, the p.s. belt cut into the oil cooler line. Not from motor mount sag (could have contributed), rather the AC belt broke, tangled in the p.s. belt and flipped it over. Appears it happened within a few miles of our home as my son ended a 500 mi trip. Still measured oil at the tip of the oil stick, so apparently didn't run dry. Made a mess underhood.

In my experience with other OHC engines, the camshaft fails first from no oil. However, I don't know about M-B diesels. If the camshaft lobes were gone, you would hear a lot of ticking or rattling up top, plus loss of power. That would be a fairly easy repair.

mytmousemalibu · #21 03-16-2015, 03:46 PM

Bet it spun or wiped out some bearings in the bottom end. It sounds like its seizing up. Drain some oil off into a pan and shine a bright light in it, if it looks like metallic paint, not good. Also pull the oil filter, look in the housing for metal debris and if you can see paper pleats on the filter, or use some dykes and pliers and peel it open and cut the paper out and look for chips. If you have any flakes of metal that are very soft/easy to bend, its done. You could have it rebuilt but for the money, cheaper to find a good used engine.

yuke · #22 03-16-2015, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

I think she`s done.

Found this one, is this close to you?

MERCEDES BENZ 300D 1985 DIESEL 123 CHASSIS DIESEL ENGINE

Charlie

Thanks alot charmalu that 300 D is close to me I will go look at it tomorrow. Then man did say that the mounts are a little different and I would have to swap my oil filter houseing to that one as they read oil pressure 2 different ways mine electrical his I guess with a line to gauge otherwise the motors are the same. I hope to run mine on the road again. I also have a close person that said they would swap the motor for one that has 161,000 for $3,000 and they are a certified M.B. mechanic. I have to make the best choice and try to keep the cost down. Thank-You very much for your suggestion.

mach4 · #23 03-16-2015, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuke

Thanks alot charmalu that 300 D is close to me I will go look at it tomorrow. Then man did say that the mounts are a little different and I would have to swap my oil filter houseing to that one as they read oil pressure 2 different ways mine electrical his I guess with a line to gauge otherwise the motors are the same.

The oil filter housing is quite different. Not only is the oil pressure setup different, the housing is different so as to provide clearance to the steering gear. The oil cooler lines are different, as is the turbo feed line, so make sure you swap those across too. You might be able to bend them to fit, but it's way easier to use the right lines.

eatont9999 · #24 03-16-2015, 09:48 PM

I fell victim to the lazy oil cooler line "repair" once. I was actually waiting on replacement lines to be shipped and dealing with a PO's "fix" to the oil cooler lines. 1/2 mile from home, it blew and luckily, I caught it right when it happened and pulled over safely; saving the engine. The fact that Yuke's engine lost power during this event does not instill any confidence that the engine is savable.

No point in checking the oil filter for debris as it does not sound like there was any oil to be circulated during the event. The damage was caused after the oil was not circulating.

I don't know why people dread and delay oil cooler line replacement on these engines. It's a 2-3 beer job if you have done it once or twice. The lines are not that expensive, either and even less so if you have the originals rebuilt.

I'm sorry to hear this, Yuke. Spend your time and money swapping in a known good engine. 617s will take a lot of abuse but oil is about the only thing you can't skimp on.

vstech · #25 03-16-2015, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Are the ends of the oil cooler line fittings beaded? If not, shouldn't they be beaded or at least flared before replacing with rubber hose?

$5 DIY internal bead forming tool for small tubing - The Garage Journal Board

Sixto
MB-less

Yes, they have ridges on them.

eatont9999 · #26 03-17-2015, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Yes, they have ridges on them.

OE hard lines have a nipple/ridges on them. Other aftermarket hard lines may not. I have seen some that are not flared at the end and they were aftermarket parts.

mytmousemalibu · #27 03-17-2015, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

No point in checking the oil filter for debris as it does not sound like there was any oil to be circulated during the event. The damage was caused after the oil was not circulating.

Probably a moot point in this case but if/since oil was added and the engine started again and granted the oil pump still works, it will flush metallic trash into the filter even after the "event", done it a number of times on customer cars that the owners ran out/low on oil and this was a quick way to check for the extent of major damage.

Diesel911 · #28 03-17-2015, 11:32 PM

Since 2015 a there has been a lot of non-stock type solutions to the Oil Cooler Hose issue.

I have read of Members getting their Car from the Former Owner with the non-stock Hose and Hose Clamps having a catastrophic failure.

I have not read of anyone who has replaced the Stock Hose with good Hose made for for Hot Oil and useded double Clamps on each end of the Hose having the same type fo Failure.
This sort if fix can be under $30 total cost and that includes the Clamps; the Hose being cheaper then the Clamps.
After that changing Hoses is cheap and relativly fast.

To me the most creative of the Hose Fixes is the Guy that used the AC Hose crimping Tool to make a set using AC Hose.

eatont9999 · #29 03-18-2015, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mytmousemalibu

Probably a moot point in this case but if/since oil was added and the engine started again and granted the oil pump still works, it will flush metallic trash into the filter even after the "event", done it a number of times on customer cars that the owners ran out/low on oil and this was a quick way to check for the extent of major damage.

That's right. he did try to start it later on. There might be some bad luck in the filter, then.

biopete · #30 03-18-2015, 12:22 PM

My cheap double clamp fix has gone 100k. I used good oil hose that was about 6$ a foot. I think the spring type clamps are probably best. I'm going to forward this to the owner of the car. You got me scared.