Repair or remove AC? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tjts1 · #16 03-20-2015, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbach36

Clearly, the a/c system's are MB's biggest downfall. Even on my 1991 300d, they were marginal systems at best. They might be fine for the cold northeast with mild summers, but they certainly do not work well in the south. A few people are lucky enough to have them blow cold air here in the south, but keeping them that way is likely a challenge.

If I were you, and you want a/c, I would hire a mobile mechanic who can convert it to the new freon and/or do whatever needs to be done to get it working once and for all, and be done with it. If you need ac, dammit, a Mercedes should have it, and a good one at that. So spend the money and be done. You'll likely save a lot with an experienced mobile mechanic.

On the 124 at least the problem isn't the compressor or condenser, its the lack of airflow. The mechanical fan and aux fans simply don't move enough air at idle to make the AC blow cold. After installing electric puller fans my AC blows cold even in summer LA traffic.

sixto · #17 03-20-2015, 08:06 PM

Here's some info on custom brackets for Sanden compressors - Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst.

Sixto
MB-less

Graham · #18 03-20-2015, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob300SD

My AC doesnt work either but it worked and was charged and had a new compressor before it was parked 8 years ago. They banned R12 in Canada though so Id have to convert it. My truck only cost $180 to get recharged a year ago. Is the job changing all the seals to 134a compatible seals a big job? Looks like a thousand seals in those conversion kits.

I talked to an A/C shop in Kingston, Ont. They suggested that if I wanted to get the A/C running again, it would probably be best to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant (My car had already been converted to R134a).

Reason for this, are the crazy rules in Canada. On an old car, they expect leaks. If there are leaks, unlike in the USA, you cannot buy cans of R134a to top it up. If you take it to a shop and they find a leak, they have to evacuate the refrigerant before giving you back your car. Or you have to have them repair it.

With the hydrocarbon refrigerants, there are no rules.

A few years ago, they quoted me $1200 for new compressor installed (on 300D) I think it also included dryer & exp valve. Have thought about doing it myself but low on priority list. Only need it for a couple of weeks each summer.

A/C failed on all three of my old benzes at about 11 years of life. Even on 98, I have not repaired it because evap has gone - expensive repair.

vstech · #19 03-20-2015, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I talked to an A/C shop in Kingston, Ont. They suggested that if I wanted to get the A/C running again, it would probably be best to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant (My car had already been converted to R134a).

Reason for this, are the crazy rules in Canada. On an old car, they expect leaks. If there are leaks, unlike in the USA, you cannot buy cans of R134a to top it up. If you take it to a shop and they find a leak, they have to evacuate the refrigerant before giving you back your car. Or you have to have them repair it.

With the hydrocarbon refrigerants, there are no rules.

A few years ago, they quoted me $1200 for new compressor installed (on 300D) I think it also included dryer & exp valve. Have thought about doing it myself but low on priority list. Only need it for a couple of weeks each summer.

A/C failed on all three of my old benzes at about 11 years of life. Even on 98, I have not repaired it because evap has gone - expensive repair.

FYI, I have successfully repaired 2 W210 evaporator leaks with a commercial stop leak chemical. so, it's a much lower cost repair than replacing the evap...

rob300SD · #20 03-20-2015, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I talked to an A/C shop in Kingston, Ont. They suggested that if I wanted to get the A/C running again, it would probably be best to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant (My car had already been converted to R134a).

Reason for this, are the crazy rules in Canada. On an old car, they expect leaks. If there are leaks, unlike in the USA, you cannot buy cans of R134a to top it up. If you take it to a shop and they find a leak, they have to evacuate the refrigerant before giving you back your car. Or you have to have them repair it.

With the hydrocarbon refrigerants, there are no rules.

A few years ago, they quoted me $1200 for new compressor installed (on 300D) I think it also included dryer & exp valve. Have thought about doing it myself but low on priority list. Only need it for a couple of weeks each summer.

A/C failed on all three of my old benzes at about 11 years of life. Even on 98, I have not repaired it because evap has gone - expensive repair.

Well I took my Suburban to Fountain Tire they claimed the same thing about leaks. Well, they said they wouldn't fill it IF they found it was leaking. They also claim to have to purge it first in order to protect their equipment. Hydrocarbon's are explosive, etc. Anyway, my system had leaked down over 2 years so it wasn't a fast leak. They filled it with R134a and it worked great all summer.

I wouldn't use hydrocarbons. It could explode if you get in an accident.

rob300SD · #21 03-20-2015, 10:41 PM

People spend thousands on their AC systems. I'd rather just roll down the window and get some fresh air. If I could get it working for under $200 it would be worthwhile, but otherwise it's such a waste.

rob300SD · #22 03-20-2015, 10:49 PM

SO even if I replaced the Orings, I'd still need a R134a compatible compressor right? I can't use the old one, even if it did work. I can still turn the compressor and it makes a chugging sound and it's hard to turn as it compresses.

vstech · #23 03-20-2015, 11:19 PM

no. you need 134 compatible oil. and a larger heat dispersing condenser...

rob300SD · #24 03-21-2015, 08:54 AM

Which condenser is ideal?

I would have thought the seals inside the compressor would need to be compatible as well. I guess the oil keeps it sealed. Is there little pistons with rings inside or do the pistons have oring seals?

eatont9999 · #25 03-21-2015, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Most seal kits are universal, and have many more seals and Orings than are needed. Changing the seals is not that big of a job. There are only about 10 Orings (4 different sizes), and the 2 seals on the compressor. The Orings must be the green HBNR for r134a refrigerant. I think the entire job could be done in less than an hour.....Rich

I would say 4-6 hours if he does a flush when replacing the o-rings. The W126 TXV takes about 2 hours by itself unless you have just the right tools and get lucky. It is a bear to deal with. I have replaced about 5 of them over the years.

Edit: Just realized he has a W116. I am not sure but that TXV might be easier to access.

rob300SD · #26 03-21-2015, 09:59 AM

TXV? Yeah I figured it would be a tougher job.

eatont9999 · #27 03-21-2015, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob300SD

People spend thousands on their AC systems. I'd rather just roll down the window and get some fresh air. If I could get it working for under $200 it would be worthwhile, but otherwise it's such a waste.

I have spent a lot on AC for my cars but when you live in a state that is over 90F for almost half a year, you need the AC.

If you want to go cheap on this, check that the system has enough oil in it, vac it down (some auto parts stores rent vac pumps) and charge it with isobutane 80% and propane 20%. Isobutane is the fuel for some camp stoves and if you get the right can, you can hook an R12 charging hose directly to it. You can build a propane connector from a torch head and a few plumbing pieces at your local hardware store. You will need an R12 compatible gauge set - craigslist. Everything assumes your system is at least reasonably solid.

No, you won't die in a ball of fire if you ever get into a crash. That line of thinking is nothing but scare tactics and uninformed speculation. If done correctly, you can get real close to R12 performance. However, I have a larger budget for my AC projects, so I use R12 once the system has been rebuilt.

rob300SD · #28 03-21-2015, 10:18 AM

Educate yourself. Calls for ban on hydrocarbon retrofits : Cooling Post

Graham · #29 03-21-2015, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

FYI, I have successfully repaired 2 W210 evaporator leaks with a commercial stop leak chemical. so, it's a much lower cost repair than replacing the evap...

My first try was just topping up with R134a bought in USA. But it was leaking down quite quickly. So I tried a sealant (AC Pro or something like that). The A/C then worked great - for about 2 days. It then stopped and pressure went to zero. I guessed that the sealant blew out.

Evap repair would cost more than car is worth. I think I could do a replacement myself, but it is a big job (18-20hrs at shop). In our climate we get by with opening windows around town and sunroof on highway. Same for our 300D, but it could be fixed for less $$$.

We do have one car with AC, so just use that for summer longer trips.

rob300SD · #30 03-21-2015, 10:30 AM

Seems reasonable to me that a gas leak inside the car could cause an explosion. How much gas would would a fully pressurized system hold?