|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Engine has to come out what is best way
Have to pull and replace engine on my 85 300 SD. Is it best to take out with trans. or separate. Any tips on dos and dont's . I have tried to do a lot of research on matter and mostly seem that a big thing to watch for is the torque convertor in that when you do separate the trans the convertor could go with the engine or the trans depending.And when reinstalling have to make sure convertor is fully seated by revolving it until you hear 3 clunks as I hope I only have to do this ounce. If there might be any members close to me would really appreciate help on matter.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Lots of folks like to pull engine and tranny together. I work alone and find it more manageable separately. Release the torque converter from the driven plate - 6 inordinately small bolts - then push the torque converter back towards the transmission. There's a handling tool that slips into the forward edge of the transmission to keep the torque converter in the bell housing but you can run some stiff wire across the open face of the bell housing. Just pushing back the torque converter ensures it doesn't come out with the engine. If you mean you have a choice, you don't! Make sure the torque converter stays in the transmission. If you don't pull the torque off the transmission, there's no need to confirm 3 clunks or whatever. It's a good time for new input and front pump seals, though...
Start by cleaning everything in the engine bay then fill a memory card with detail pictures. Sixto MB-less |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
There's no one "right" way... or even "better" way. I'm in the opposite camp from Sixto. I much prefer to pull the two together. That way I can wrestle with getting the transmission hooked up again outside the car where I've got some fighting room.
Use the method you feel most comfortable with.
__________________
Current Stable
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Get a quality engine leveler...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
^x2.
I pull em both together whenever I do this job.
__________________
Jim |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
When I pull the engine, I pull the transmission.
When I pull the transmission, I do not pull the engine..... The load leveler is a nice thing to have when pulling the engine. This allows you to adjust the angle of the dangle. Jim
__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Oh.... if you pull the trans with the engine, drain the fluid out the trans first.......
If you don't you will always remember why you should after not doing it once. Jim
__________________
14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
x3 worth buying a real brand aka NOT harbor freight. The 617 weighs in at what, 700#?
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Iam in the camp of pulling eng/trans together.
Much easier to bolt the trans and engine back together when it is in front of you. Remove the 6 13mm bolts to the Torque Convertor before removing the eng/trans. I learned the hard way, had to set the eng on the tail gate of the PU, and reaching under the trans, remove the dang things. I have a suggestion on the Load leveler, Cut that little crank off and weld on a large nut, Then you can use your air impact to angle the thing. I used a long 13/16" Nut, then use a Spark Plug Socket. A Ratchet works also, just a lot of cranking, still easier than the lil crank. Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I'm in the "while I'm at it" camp and would use it as an excuse to stop all of the little transmission leaks and refurbish anything that could be gotten to relatively easily.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
*cough* oil filter gasket *cough*
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
I do agree with Charlie and pull the engine and transmission out together. But real words of wisdom are to get those six little studs our of the convertor flex plate before removing. Then when it is on the floor or where ever, just pull the studs out of the bell housing, wiggle it a little and it is out of there.
__________________
Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
Bookmarks |
|
|