best motor mounts, new ones just failed
 

you guys may remember my thread about changing motor mounts. thanks for all the replies. I was able to change them out with units from anchor industries. the driver side was collapsed, the passenger seemed fine but I did both of them anyway.

holy cow what a difference!!! you cant even feel the engine running, or at least it was that way for a week and a half. then, I noticed a good be more vibration. I thought there may be a break in period or something.

then yesterday I shine my light down towards the passenger side unit only to find a bunch of orange liquid stains and a flat mount!!!! WTF!!! and yes, I reinstalled the heat shield.

is it worth making a warranty claim? what's the best ones to use? I hate doing work twice.

Yup, if they are blown out, I'd try a warranty, but don't hold your breath.
If the warranty pans out you will have a replacement that may fail just as quickly. Try for a money back claim...

I'm not sure of the OEM for the newer mounts... TRW? Phoneix?

Knock on wood, I've not had to replace mine yet, but a nagging vibration has me thinking I need to soon...

Hmm, thanks for posting this experience. I'm in the market for new mounts for the 300TD and saw the anchor brand for about 30/side and also saw some way off brand for 13/side. Guess I'm going with Febi/Bilstien. Good luck with the warranty claim that downright stinks.

On my 617->107 engine swap, my clearances were a bit tighter than stock so I filled the mounts with urethane to prevent collapse. With the right urethane the increase in vibration will be undetectable. (I've now got 70k miles on them with no collapse) Now those are the earlier style mounts that have an exposed cavity that the urethane can just be poured in.

You don't state the car in your profile, but you've obviously got liquid-filled ones. The filling technique will be a bit more tricky, but I believe still doable and that's the tack I would be taking.

If you look at the cross-section of the later mount design you can see two chambers.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...s/423502e0.jpg

If you were to drill a small hole in each chamber, allow the fluid to drain out and refill with urethane, you'd have a mount that would likely outlast the car. In this application, the stiffest urethane you'd want to use would be Shore A 30 and I believe that a much less stiff one would be acceptable and likely even better. Because it's unknown whether there would be an adverse reaction between the original fluid and the urethane, I'd flush the old fluid out thoroughly with a suitable solvent.

Here's a durometer chart that shows the various options.

http://www.allsealsinc.com/durometer.gif

Not on a Mercedes but I recently had a bad experience with Anchor Motor Mounts (made in Korea) on my 92 Chevy Astro Van.
When I looked at the Box I was happy they were made in Korea. Note that the Boxl just has Korea not north or south Korea.

I bought the on eBay by way of Summit Racing. In the picture I compare the Autozone Mount (made in Chins) to the Anchor Mount.

The Anchor Mount has warped and poorly bent sheetmetal and the Sheetmetal overlaps the holes to the extent that I would have had to enlarge the holes.
It looks to me like the the Metal was too springy to take the stamping out and partly sprung back go shape. All of the Bends on the Autozone one are good and hole aligment good.

I won't be buying any more Anchor Products on the Internet.

If you want to help others avoid buying junk you can post in these threads:
Fight Back
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294339-fight-back%3B-post-list-where-parts-you-bought-were-made.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1623499-mods-make-sticky-part-manufactures-buy.html

Good stuff, Mac!

Thank s for posting this!

thanks for all the info, my year/model is in the signature. I don't think they are the same type.

the frustration is that rock auto wants to see the original shipped before they will replace it.

I am going to buy one made in Germany from pelican parts and send that piece of junk back to them and get a refund.

I just learned the hard way about uro parts as well on a belt shock. looks like I need to invest a little more in these parts.

Yes, you need to be careful and NOT purchased based on price. That doesn't mean to always buy the highest-priced item, but you have to do SOME research. Genuine MB / dealer parts are always a safe bet, and for certain parts they are the same price (or cheaper!) than aftermarket. Again, do your homework. Read this manufacturer quality list for more info. Forget a warranty exchange on the Anchor mount, just junk them, write it off as a learning experience, and spread the word to others.

For the engine mounts, Lemforder are good. Part number for your 124.128 2.5 Turbo is 201-240-42-17, Pelican and other places have them for $60-$70 each. Dealer list is $129, discount dealers will be $100-$110 each. I'd get Lemforder.

BTW - all the mounts currently available at Rock are junk: DEA, ANCHOR, WESTAR, and ÜRO; and the price confirms this (all between $30 and $36, half of the OEM Lemforder). You'll have to buy from a different vendor, i.e. Pelican.

http://www.********.com/catalog/x,carcode,1193756,parttype,5552 <-- Forum doesn't allow Rock URL, sorry.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&Context_make=MBZ&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=W124&P revious_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=201-240-42-17&I1.x=15&I1.y=4

:stuart:

Gee... another 'happy' uro user... imagine that.

Another reminder, for those who use a shop to do their work, not all of them use factory M-B parts. You may wish to have a chat with the mechanic on the subject of where he buys parts. If a shop-repaired part fails, at least the shop will (should) make good on their warranty but you are still stuck with having your car gone again for a few days.

By DIY you are saving money, don't skimp on the replacement parts. Even a used OE/OEM is going to be better that URO imo.