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  #1  
Old 03-29-2015, 10:44 AM
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Oil seperator drain throwing up

So I long suspected it but I beleive I now know for sure. When I drive the car under 3000 rpm there's no problem. When I floor it on the highway or to merge, etc and run the car hard oil comes up both the oil dipstick tube and the oil seperator tube.

I'm sure this is why I get a puddle of oil in my air cleaner housing. Because it stays dry for so long as Im not driving the car hard. But just one episode of running at high rpm and I have oil in the housing and running down the outside of the drain tube as well. I know I need new orings, but that wouldn't stop the oil from entering the oil seperator and overflowing. There should be a valve in the drain tube. I guess that isn't working.

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Old 03-29-2015, 11:22 AM
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I think there is a check valve in "upper oil pan" below the oil drain-back tube. Try blowing thru the tube with your mouth. I feel something pop open under slight pressure like a valve. Yours could be clogged. However, I think you should get just faint oil if there is minimal blow-by past the rings, maybe a few ounces in a 100 mile drive. That is more likely your problem. See you-tube videos to judge your blow-by. If so, there is no easy cure unless you believe the magic bottles at auto parts. The magic is how they separate desperate owners from their money.
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2015, 12:13 PM
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I will try mucking with it and trying with a mightyvac to see if oil comes up.
Maybe I'll try reving it up and see if oil comes up.

Im not putting my mouth on it. Deisel oil is terrible. Once I tried blowing through a crankcase vent tube on a Jetta deisel and I got a chemical burn on my tongue that changed the way the cells on the end of my tounge looked. Took a year to go back to looking normal.
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Old 03-29-2015, 12:15 PM
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The blowby couldnt condensate fast enough to generate the quantity of oil that ends up in my air filter housing in the short time that it appears there.
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  #5  
Old 03-29-2015, 01:21 PM
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If oil is bubbling up, the crankcase vent tube may be collapsed...
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2015, 01:24 PM
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Vent on top of the valve cover is a hard tube and I just replaced both rubber ends.
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2015, 01:25 PM
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Course maybe its not big enough to accept all the blowby from a mid life engine.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:34 PM
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I fixed this issue on a 1995 300D with water therapy.

The car would blow oil out of the dipstick tube above 2700rpm, or on heavy load, consistently.

Sense the engine was an N/A, the windshield washer pump was powerful enough (30psi+) to inject water into the intake crossover pipe.
On a turbo engine, the water needs to be injected after the turbo into the pressurized intake manifold. A 50psi 12v RV water system pump will work.

With the engine up to operating temp. we injected water under light load at hwy. speed and gradually increased the engine load. We ended on the long, steep, hill, at WOT.

After doing this, we could not get oil to blow out the dipstick tube under any circumstances. The engine started easier and ran smoother.

Do at your own risk. YMMV.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:44 PM
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Well I just cleaned it out again. I like to clean it instead of it blowing out the water drain down the side of the spring mount.

It's not much oil. Maybe a few paper towels worth to get the puddle cleaned up.

I havent tried sealing the oil seperator like some have.
I have cleaned it and rehammered the tabs that lock the lid on. Seems tight.

I'll have to do some more experiments to figure out if it's occasionally belching up some oil from the drain tube.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:47 PM
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Greg that is the strangest thing I've ever heard of. Why did that work? Does it score and reseat the rings?
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  #11  
Old 03-29-2015, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob300SD View Post
Greg that is the strangest thing I've ever heard of. Why did that work? Does it score and reseat the rings?
Have you ever looked at an engine with a failed head gasket with the head removed ? You will notice that the cylinders that the coolant was leaking into were steam cleaned. No deposits, no carbon.

You need enough water to violently vaporize in the cylinder. Not too much to kill the combustion heat or, at the extreme, cause hydro-lock.

Search this site, in the Diesel Performance Tuning section, and the internet, for "water injection" and/or "methanol injection".
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2015, 05:14 PM
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Sounds like a crankcase ventilation problem because the pressure can't get out where it should (valve cover) so the pressure is taking the next path to atmosphere, up from the dipstick & breather. Your valve cover tube may be fine but the internal baffling might be plugged up. if you have a spare oil cap, drill as big a hole in it you can, hook up a hose and run it to a bottle and go drive it, it it stops puking oil up the breather & dipstick, there ya go, restricted breather.
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2015, 11:08 AM
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Volvo 240s are good about coking-up, Lots of oil vapor works its way into the engine despite a large oil separator. We would routinely take off a vacuum line off the intake and allow it to siphon Seafoam at higher RPMs; this did the same thing... GM dealers also have a product for this purpose alone, does good work at getting rid of carbon in the bores/heads.
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2015, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob300SD View Post
... Im not putting my mouth on it. ...
I blew thru a rubber hose attached to the drain tube.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2015, 03:39 PM
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That's good! lol

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