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  #1  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:35 PM
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w124 glow plug question.

Hello all, been a while. I have a question about a no start problem. I searched but I haven't found the exact answer.
I go and try to start- glow plug light stays on 8-10 seconds, but no start.
If I plug it in for a while and warm her up, light stays on 3-4 seconds and fires right up. Once warm, it fires up easily.
I have not changed the gp's since I bought the car, like 8, 9 years.
The battery is a year and a half old. Cranks fast.
I know I should know this, but I'm gettin' old.
I'm going out in the am to check the resistance on the gp's. Anyone want to help save me some time? Thanks.

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Old 04-13-2015, 10:01 PM
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I can save you one trip.. take some Kroil with you to start spraying the GP's prior to replacement.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:15 PM
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never heard of Kroil. I have PB blaster though. Getting at the gp's is a headache. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:18 PM
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I am curious to know if it starts if you ignore the Glow Plug Light and keep the Key in the Preglow Positon till 25 seconds has passed or you hear the Glow Plug Relay click off.

I don't recommend buying parts there but the Diesel Giant Website has a good pictorial under Glow Plug Repair on how to check the Glow Plugs from the Electrical Connector at the Glow Plug relay with an Ohm Meter (cheap at Harbor Freight).

If you pull the Glow Plugs consider getting a Glow Plug Reamer or find some other method to remove the Carbon from the Glow Plug holes.

When installing the new Plugs use some a Never-sieze type compound on the Plug threads.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2015, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickster View Post
never heard of Kroil. I have PB blaster though. Getting at the gp's is a headache. Thanks for the heads up.
Worse then that on Engines with Aluminum Cylinder Heads the Glow Plugs often break when you try to remove them.
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2015, 10:37 PM
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I picked up a set of gp's over the winter and was going to change them anyway. I read about reaming the holes a while back but totally forgot about looking for a reamer. And I don't know if I can get one locally.Wouldn't I have to pull the manifold for that?
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:41 PM
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Good Jefferson quote TNBob. Some of the politicians here in Jersey should read that.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickster View Post
I picked up a set of gp's over the winter and was going to change them anyway. I read about reaming the holes a while back but totally forgot about looking for a reamer. And I don't know if I can get one locally.Wouldn't I have to pull the manifold for that?


I did not pull the intake on my second go around on my 603 with new GPs to ream.

All I did was remove the cruise servo to access most of the plugs. I think No 2 on mine was the biggest PITA. From what I recall, your washer tank is in the way... not sure where the cruise servo is on yours.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:05 PM
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the cruise servo is right next to the washer container. Probably will pull the container. Now all I need is time to do it. thanks
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2015, 11:18 PM
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Once you remove the wiper tank and cruise servo, you will never do it another way. I have since lost my reamer, but I remember them being fairly inexpensive new.

Good penetrating oil and antiseize as the others stated I agree with 100%
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2015, 01:52 AM
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Kroil can be had here Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

As good as PB is, Kroil consistently tests as a better penetrater.

One clue to help keep from breaking them is to very, very slightly tighten .. yes .. tighten each GP before you try to break them loose.

Very very slightly = 1/64th or so of a turn.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2015, 09:38 AM
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PB is leaps and bounds above WD-40 as a penetrater, and it's FANTASTIC at stopping wood borers... (those GIANT bumble bee looking things that eat holes in your house/fence/etc...) but Kroil is simply fantastic. and as a plus, it smells farr nicer than PB...

I don't know if any penetratant would be very good at helping with a stuck glow plug though. perhaps if the injector was removed, and the entire cylinder was filled with it, and extreme care was taken... IDK, but the issue with GP's sticking is the shaft and carbon binding in the slot the plug sits in.
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2015, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
Kroil can be had here Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

As good as PB is, Kroil consistently tests as a better penetrater.

One clue to help keep from breaking them is to very, very slightly tighten .. yes .. tighten each GP before you try to break them loose.

Very very slightly = 1/64th or so of a turn.
Lol. What we do for fun here in TN I'm getting some kroil.
Its not much worry on o 602 with glow plugs getting stuck. At least i've never heard of it.
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  #14  
Old 04-15-2015, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
I did not pull the intake on my second go around on my 603 with new GPs to ream.

All I did was remove the cruise servo to access most of the plugs. I think No 2 on mine was the biggest PITA. From what I recall, your washer tank is in the way... not sure where the cruise servo is on yours.
How much less enjoyable was it the second go round?

I did it on a 603 without pulling the intake and said never again. So many cars you have to pull the intake to do the glow plugs. The dogde sprinter, the 606 , and i'm sure others. the cdi 648 in 2005 / 2006 you dont. And vw's you dont. its pretty easy to pull the plugs on those. Now that i think about it, a lot of cars you don't have to pull it. Its pretty nice when you don't but no big deal to pull an intake. Takes 10 min about on that car. You can change your shutoff valve while you are there if that has never been changed in 9 years and you have no record of it needing it. Its a 25.00 part.
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2015, 10:57 AM
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I'd guess that you have at least two dead GPs. Checking continuity on the GP will only tell you if they are completely burnt out. That can't reliably tell you if the GP are 100%. So, i'd plan on just going ahead and replacing all of them in one go.

IMO, the extra effort required to access the GPs with the manifold on is greater that the effort required to just remove the manifold. Especially if you're planning on reaming as par of the job. This may be different on 603. I only have experience with 602. Pulling the manifold is not that difficult.

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