Most of the flywheels are neutral balanced. I'm wondering if you could have one of your local shops throw it on the balance machine and if it's in balance you're good to go. Probably a 60-40 chance or better. And if not, then seek out someone do the match balance thing. I'm probably missing something obvious, which is why I'm asking.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

That is a very good idea.

The head machinist at my local shop said that in his experience, anything balance matched to the crank would have dowel pins or a bolt pattern that would allow the flywheel to be bolted on only one way. As there is no clocking to the bolt holes and the flywheel can be put on in any of 12 orientations, then it is almost certainly neutrally balanced.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I've never read about dowels being used but there should be some witness marks on the flywheel and crank if they are match balanced. People report that they're often so faint they're unreadable. Get it really, really clean and you might be able to see something...actually hopefully you won't.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

FSM says balance it:

Statically balancing of flywheel

Called around some more and found another shop who was only too happy to match-balance anything I brought in. Match balance a flywheel to a manhole cover? Sure, no problem. How about a manhole cover to a slurpee cup? Sure, as long as we can get it on the machine.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

(Is it in there yet - hee hee!)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hah!

Got the new motor prepped as far as I can, now waiting on parts to arrive. Going to get everything staged and hope to have the actual down-time with the truck being undriveable be a single weekend.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

One weekend - he's gone and said it now!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Four hours out and five hours in - that's just a long day by my calculation.

Oh and some time to swap over the tranny...

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Oh yeah, if all goes right(haha.......hah.......ha................) a single day in and out should be doable. I wish it was like a SBC in an old pickup, half a day at most to R&R.

What are the O-rings on the sleeve connecting the turbo to the intake called? Is it Pelican PN 021-997-86-48-M17?

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Day one...

...?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Project is on temporary pause. I was offered all the firewood I care to cut and haul out of the woods - for free. I'll be busy with that until that's taken care of or the current motor blows up.

An interesting tidbit, a gallon of motor oil in half a tank of fuel shut up the rattling.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

That's very interesting....what made you think to try that? Any theories?

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I'm late to the party here but this makes me wonder if you're hearing "piston slap." It happens when the piston skirt hits the cylinder bore due to the piston cocking very slightly to the side. Very common in some gas engines I'm familiar with. If it's piston slap it'll be most noticeable at idle and just above idle under light load, and fade out as RPM increases. On a gasser it sounds like a hollow, dull knocking from the lower block area, as if someone were tapping it with a hammer.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

I was looking through pictures of my delivery valves(don't have time to post them right now) and saw RUST on the outside of them. I'd forgotten about that. Delivery valve problems could cause the rattling for sure, what would free them up? More fuel lubricity. I had engine oil on hand, in the tank it went. I may run a seriously heavy dose of 2 stroke oil or start filling up with B100 to help limp it along until I have fewer irons in the fire.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

I'm convinced you've got a fuel problem, nothing internal to the engine. Either a delivery valve or a bad injector is my bet.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC