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  #61  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:09 PM
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Most of the flywheels are neutral balanced. I'm wondering if you could have one of your local shops throw it on the balance machine and if it's in balance you're good to go. Probably a 60-40 chance or better. And if not, then seek out someone do the match balance thing. I'm probably missing something obvious, which is why I'm asking.
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  #62  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:22 PM
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That is a very good idea.

The head machinist at my local shop said that in his experience, anything balance matched to the crank would have dowel pins or a bolt pattern that would allow the flywheel to be bolted on only one way. As there is no clocking to the bolt holes and the flywheel can be put on in any of 12 orientations, then it is almost certainly neutrally balanced.
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Last edited by OM617YOTA; 04-28-2015 at 06:06 PM.
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  #63  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:25 PM
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I've never read about dowels being used but there should be some witness marks on the flywheel and crank if they are match balanced. People report that they're often so faint they're unreadable. Get it really, really clean and you might be able to see something...actually hopefully you won't.
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  #64  
Old 04-28-2015, 06:06 PM
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FSM says balance it:

Statically balancing of flywheel

Called around some more and found another shop who was only too happy to match-balance anything I brought in. Match balance a flywheel to a manhole cover? Sure, no problem. How about a manhole cover to a slurpee cup? Sure, as long as we can get it on the machine.
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  #65  
Old 04-30-2015, 07:10 AM
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(Is it in there yet - hee hee!)
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  #66  
Old 04-30-2015, 12:10 PM
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Hah!

Got the new motor prepped as far as I can, now waiting on parts to arrive. Going to get everything staged and hope to have the actual down-time with the truck being undriveable be a single weekend.
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  #67  
Old 04-30-2015, 12:52 PM
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One weekend - he's gone and said it now!
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  #68  
Old 04-30-2015, 01:57 PM
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Four hours out and five hours in - that's just a long day by my calculation.

Oh and some time to swap over the tranny...
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  #69  
Old 05-01-2015, 03:53 PM
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Oh yeah, if all goes right(haha.......hah.......ha................) a single day in and out should be doable. I wish it was like a SBC in an old pickup, half a day at most to R&R.

What are the O-rings on the sleeve connecting the turbo to the intake called? Is it Pelican PN 021-997-86-48-M17?
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  #70  
Old 05-02-2015, 02:22 PM
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Day one...

...?
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  #71  
Old 05-03-2015, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Day one...

...?
Project is on temporary pause. I was offered all the firewood I care to cut and haul out of the woods - for free. I'll be busy with that until that's taken care of or the current motor blows up.

An interesting tidbit, a gallon of motor oil in half a tank of fuel shut up the rattling.
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  #72  
Old 05-03-2015, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post

An interesting tidbit, a gallon of motor oil in half a tank of fuel shut up the rattling.
That's very interesting....what made you think to try that? Any theories?
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  #73  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
The regular tapping eventually disappeared after messing with the #5 injector and I have been unable to reproduce it since. The irregular rattle that sounds like a gasser pinging doesn't change with cylinders being deactivated, it's across all 5 cylinders.
I'm late to the party here but this makes me wonder if you're hearing "piston slap." It happens when the piston skirt hits the cylinder bore due to the piston cocking very slightly to the side. Very common in some gas engines I'm familiar with. If it's piston slap it'll be most noticeable at idle and just above idle under light load, and fade out as RPM increases. On a gasser it sounds like a hollow, dull knocking from the lower block area, as if someone were tapping it with a hammer.
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  #74  
Old 05-04-2015, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
That's very interesting....what made you think to try that? Any theories?
I was looking through pictures of my delivery valves(don't have time to post them right now) and saw RUST on the outside of them. I'd forgotten about that. Delivery valve problems could cause the rattling for sure, what would free them up? More fuel lubricity. I had engine oil on hand, in the tank it went. I may run a seriously heavy dose of 2 stroke oil or start filling up with B100 to help limp it along until I have fewer irons in the fire.
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  #75  
Old 05-04-2015, 12:37 PM
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I'm convinced you've got a fuel problem, nothing internal to the engine. Either a delivery valve or a bad injector is my bet.
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