Anyone have some advice as to what work I should also do, have someone do, or evaluation of potential work to do on an IP that I'm removing to replace leaky (engine) oil seals? I did the top fuel seals a while back (and they're easy enough to do while on the car). For example should I have the pressure, volume, etc. checked? Preventative rebuild? It's not all that hard to remove as I understand it so probably not but at 4k for a new pump it might be worth an investment now. I've got 375k miles on this '87 603 engine (and pump) and the pump has never been R&Rd.

Engine & IP runs great, only reason to remove the IP is to fix a significant oil leak at the bottom seal and I'll replace all of the similar seals while I've got it off.

I didn't find a similar thread so hopefully this isn't a redundant request as to what's already out on the forum - if I missed it and you can post a link, thanks in advance.

Chris

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Chris_87_300D
1987 300D - 415,000+ miles
1999 E320 - 220,000+ miles
2008 SL55
2019 Sprinter Diesel 4x4

The only other thing I would do is replace the vacuum shut-off valve.

I've resealed a pump without removing it from the car, not too fun but doable. Side plate is easy, bottom plate requires a mirror to watch what you are doing. If the big O-ring between pump and engine block is leaking, then you must remove the pump to replace that O-ring. I think there is one other small O-ring somewhere, would be easy enough to replace with the pump mounted.

Sending the pump out to be calibrated is a bit extreme, unless you have some reason to suspect a problem. I think calibration costs about $1000 or less.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I may just try and replace the lower plate seal w/o removing the IP - worst case I make a big mess and still end up removing the IP. It's probably easier to do upside down if I can find the rectangular formed seal. I don't see any other obvious leaks at the IP. The side one would be easy to replace also as a preventative measure.

Thanks for the encouragement on the lower plate seal as well as the advice on the stop solenoid if I end up R&Ring the IP.

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Chris_87_300D
1987 300D - 415,000+ miles
1999 E320 - 220,000+ miles
2008 SL55
2019 Sprinter Diesel 4x4

I would only get the seals from MB, this is not a job you want to do again later.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

You could take apart the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve. The onlder ones only had a Ball Bearing and spring in the Valve but people have said the newer ones have a plstick piece insode that distorts or falls a part.

You could rebuild the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump. There is I believe 2 threads on rebuilding them.

The Fuel Injection Pump Timing/Locking Pin is a handy way to re-install the Fuel Injection Pump and have it timed correctly.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

OM606 Fuel Pump Rebuild

I don't know if it is worth the chance of causing more trouble or not but the IP Throttle Arm O-rings as does the Manual Shutoff. There has been only a few that have had seeping Oil leaks at either site and at least 2 have unintentionaly manage to shove the Manual Shutoff Shat inside fot he Governor and had to take part of the Governor apart to re-insert it.

My IP has a Sheetmetal Pan/Cover at the bottom a few have had those leak. I don't know if your IP has a similar Pan on it.

Post #14 has a pic of the plastic part that may be in the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve. The same post has links to Fuel Supply/Lift Pump threads.
Fuel Supply (IP) problem on W-124

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel