What can cause no crank on 87 300d. Stuck now with no schematic
 

Doesn't seem to be neutral/park switch. Have tried jiggling shifter while turning key. I don't have a meter with me to check voltage to the starter.


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Many things... nss, ignition switch, solenoid, battery, fuse, cables, etc...

Do the headlights come on? Do they dim when trying to start?

Do you have the junction block on the passenger fender like the earlier 126? I've used it to bump engine for valve adjustment. It may bypass switches.

I got the car home last evening and just had a few minutes to troubleshoot. I had no 12v at the starter control circuit pin. So I moved to the x42-2 connector to the right of the steering column under the dash. When I hit the start position of the switch there was no power at pin 3. I assume this tells me the switch has gone bad. Been a whole lot of starting of this car during repair so it kind of makes sense.

My question now is do I need any special tools to get the old switch out of the dash or is it pretty straightforward? Anybody had to change one of them?

The car... YEAR and model just might help us help you.

... The title of the thread says it all...:rolleyes:

It is in the thread title. 1987 300d.

Ha ha, I was milliseconds too slow.

Can't open the 126 FSM on this to check about the ness bypass, but here's a pic of the terminal block to jump the starter:

May or may not help.

For those not familiar with the numbering convention:
30 = unswitched 12 V dc
50 = starter solenoid control lead

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04...306937c558.jpg. Those small pieces are bad news aren't they. I don't think my problem is the switch.


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Are they part of the tumbler? They were in the back side of the switch.


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Or is that part of the housing? Does the tumbler directly engage the switch or does the housing?

You've probably got to look at the other parts to see exactly where they may have broken off of.

If you use a screwdriver does the electrical switch move correctly when you turn it? A couple detents and then the momentary spring return for the starter

You can plug the electrical switch back onto the connector plug and then use a flat blade screwdriver to turn that center part. If the car starts you know the switch is not part of the problem.

there is mechanism between the key cylinder and the electrical switch so those pieces could be from something in that part of the entire locking mechanism.

The procedure is to use the key turned to position #1 then the ignition switch connector can be removed or installed without breaking anything.