First and foremost, get a manual and get the fuel system hooked up right. He has his returns out of the injectors blocked off.

I wonder if this could wear the IP, or that spring in the return out of the IP.

Once it is hooked up right you could compare spray pattern while hot and cold. It will make a mess, and you could get it tested.

But worst case senario is not addressing the return out of the injectors, swapping IP's, and frying the other one.

Now factor in the problem starting when it hydrolocked, and the injector not being able to release its pressure, and you see where im going with this...


Ill shoot some pics of my return line this evening. Impromtu dinner.

Okay first off I have the manual second off the truck has had the motor for about 5 years and it's the same way from the factory. I maybe not saying it correctly but from the fuel filter there's the ruber line that runs to 1 injector, and then from 1 to 2 and so on to number 5 and then on the very end you put the little ruber cap. On the very last injector. But like I said I never had a problem before until the head gasket poped and then I changed that and it still not working properly.

Oh sweet. I was just thinking i ate waaayyyy too much and wasnt feeling like walking to the barn to snap a pic. I may not have read correctly.



Maybe someone more knowledgeable will come along. Welcome (ish) to the forum. Everyone is really helpful and friendly here.

its alright im not trying to sound like a dick so i appologize now. everyone just makes me seem like an idiot, becaus i must not know the correct wording. the truck has a fuel cell so no in take filter to get dirty inline filters could prob used changed but it doubt thats the reason for no start when hot. it did this with stock injectors and now monarch ones as well. i wanna say when i took the pump off and pt t back on i did it correctly a wile back because it starts when its cold. i was thinking low compression when its warm but i havent forsure checked.

are you running straight DinoD? I'd also try the cold water trick next time, like I said earlier, I ran a truck like that for months before I sold it to CarMax

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1993 MB 300D 245K died.

No worries at all. Thats how it goes. Its not even wording, its just not standing in front of each other so we start trying to understand. Limited communication. Same reason i never discuss major issues with a gf via text. Lol.

Ill look for the few threads I'm thinking off. That clear line will show bubbles. I prefer to run all clear on something that plays in the dirt. I use a braided hose found at a brewery supply store (brother in law has a brewery). Summit sells it to get an idea, but its overpriced.

I dont think compression. It would be the opposite. Edit: i stand corrected? Idk. Lol. I always though metal will expand with heat. Like heating a bearing. But there is obviously more going on. I assume the valves and guides were checked when the head was off.

My IP guy says these pumps are bulletproof. Although I'm euro spec, m pump vs mw. But he encouraged me to visually check spray pattern, with an extra hard line. If you cant find a pick and pull for one, put your location in your profile. Someone may be close and have an extra.

Its silly to do the seals if you are ending up swamping pumps. They are like more than $20. So if there is no air, and the spray pattern looks ****ty...

And good idea to pop in new injectors. Theres a guy here named greezer that everyone mails there to. Nice to have an extra set. But he says to pop test and balance them once a year.

I hope my thoughts are beneficial in someway. Lol. Every once in awhile i get into a thread. Usually a 4x4 swap.

But most importantly, can we see the truck?

I once had a VW diesel Rabbit. It ran fine but would not start when the engine was hot -- let it cool for an hour or so and then it would start. The problem was low compression on a worn engine.

Have you checked the compression? Could the water have cracked the rings?

This guy. Didnt find the thead i was thinking but here is a reference. Im just thinking about when it hydrolocked and nowhere for that pressure to go. And obviously the lift pump. Or the primer pump leaking.

Fuel pressure relief valve

Ok i dont think im much help from here... Lots of stuff to diagnose.

Performance Overflow Valve

Post 17. Follow the link.

Post 3 in that thread was interesting.

Maybe just swap it off your other pump. Ok good luck lol.

I have not checked compression yet. Need to find a tester. Not sure what dinoD is so Im gunna say no haha. Would you recommend testing compression when hot or cold?

Since your problem occurs when the engine is hot, I suggest checking compression when the engine is hot. Also check it cold to get a comparison.

Alright, and what's the cold water trick sorry I must have missed that. Is it like pouring cold water on the injection pump like u do on the 24v cummins trucks?

could some one tell me what the compression is supposed to be on each cylinder, sorry

Minimum of 220 cold for reliable cold starting.

It would concern me if the engine sucked in water through the intake....bent rod. Checking compression may reveal that if it is a problem.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

yes, except I was talking about the 6.5 GM diesel, and DinoD is petroleum Diesel as opposed to Bio Diesel or straight Veggie or Waste veggie oil

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1993 MB 300D 245K died.