hey guys, i have a om617 motor swapped into my s10 it was an awesome motor till i sucked in water with it and popped a head gasket... it was having issues starting when warm after that.. recently i just got the head resurfaced, new head bolts head gasket, injectors. fuel lines.

the truck still does not want to start when its at operating temperature. it doesn't feel like its really lacking on power any more than it did before. anyone give me some advice. maybe weak cylinder? could my pump timming be off the truck smokes like crazy when ts trying to start and some times will start after cranking for a while some times not..

Wtf? Lol. Excuse my french. I would not worry about what happened and start diagnosing. Stuff like using an extra hard line and watching the injector spray pattern when you crank to check the IP.

But...


Why did you resurface the head? And how much did they take off? If a lot you may check your valve timing. But i cant draw a connection to the no start. Im sure someone more experienced can or cant.

Why new injectors? Related to the water problem?

And good job. I assume you were mobbing offroad. Been there done that. A snorkel is cheap and easy to build. But extend all your axle and tranny/transfer case breather as well to the top of it.

Are you running an electric lifter pump? The only thing i can think of is a seal in the fuel system near a heat source. A clear line on the return may say something.

May need an expert that has seen it all.

.005 the head was bubbling oil out in the passanger back corner wanted to make sure the head was flat. My buddy had new injectors for his car but decided to sell the car before he installed them. No electric lift pump. I have another ip maybe I should try and swap them?

I would put a clear line coming off your last injector, the return to the filter, and look for bubbles.

Have you done the delivery valve seals? Its a common maintenance item and cheap and easy to do. Cleanliness is godliness on that job.

If all that looks ok i would take a known good injector and test the IP on each port. Just hook it up so you can watch the spray pattern.

And I would check fuel pressure after the lift pump, before the IP.

And hopefully someone will chime in on if that much of a cut will effect valve timing. I don't think so, I cut a little for the same reason and the machine shop said it wont effect anything.

But that and IP timing should be checked regardless.

I have not done delivery valve gaskets.. I'll have to put a clear line on the last inhector and see. But how should I run theine back to the filter? Sorry if that a dumb question. The truck also starts right up when it's been sitting that's why Im confused.. I do have another ip at home so I may try and swap that if I can find a freeze plug for the front of the pump that's leaking.

The return lines off the injectors should all connect to one another and the front one should be connected to the fuel filter. I have a 615 but im running a fuel filter setup from a 617. I like the spin on. So it should be the same.

Look for air. Then find the source. (If thats even it). It just jumps out at me to be a rubber seal with heat causing the issue. But yeah this problem is backwards. Which is odd. Maybe someone will know IP better than me.

Check valve timing and IP timing.

Post a pic if that helps.

I always want to diagnose and know the problem before throwing parts at it. But thats just me.

They make a UV die for the fuel to spot leaks. Ive seen people check there delivery valves seals that way. But I've pulled multiple valves now on these old cars, and even ones running fine looked horrible. Doomed for failure.

I'm old school and put something in a spray bottle and shake it up, spray, and look for bubbles. You can put something in that bottle that will make the idle surge if it gets sucked in. Im not advising on what...

Do you have the fsm? Step 1....

I understand how the injector returns are besides correct me if I'm wrong but it's a block off cap. And I didn't buy anything for no reason the headgasket was leaking and I already reused head bolts once so I figured replac those and the inhectors well who wouldn't buy them for 20 bucks
L

What's the fsm sorry.

Ahhh. Fsm is factory service manual. Theres a free one online that i cant get on for the life of me. Or you can get digital copies on ebay. Make sure to get one specific to your car/chassis (where the motor came from). Not a big universal one. Cant remember what those are called.


Oh no i just meant it might be something simple and you wont need to need to swap IP's. You got good work going on no worries. And its your work anyways, frack anyone criticizing it. Lol.

You can measure the neck of the head bolts. If they are allan key type they are reusable. If they are hex head they are stretch bolts and need to be measured. That info is in the fsm, which makes it worth it.

Ummm, im pretty sure they should be running back to the filter at the front of the motor, blocked off at the end. Ill be back at my shop in a few and post a pic. which reminds me i need to get some measurements for another.

When I got my motor all done i paid $50 to the local german shop to do a once over. Point out anything out of place. Sometimes thats nice.

Im not knowledable enough to know what would happen if the injectors dont have a return. There is that return out of the pump itself and a spring device in there.

Is greazer seeing this? You may have another customer... Lol.

Ill post a pic and start there.

Stark info. Thats the online free one. Requires a cc but doesn't charge you.

Avoid wix manuals on ebay. I got a proper one from a seller named "mbmanuals"

If you dont know where your motor came from, theres a big number cast in the block. the first 6 digits tells you. Should be 617.***

can't speak to 617s but on the 6.2 and 6.5 Detroit, not wanting to start when "warm" is a indicator that the IP is going south. I had an older one that I carried a gallon jug of water to dump on it to get it to start.

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1993 MB 300D 245K died.

It could be just a fuel problem. The tank screen can clog after running and cause it to stall and not start. Then it sits, crud settles down and it can get fuel again. Check the fuel line that comes from the tank and pull the screen out and check it.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius