Looks like I'll just be doing a few of these instead of a production run. Materials are ordered, I'll PM those who expressed interest with a cost once machine-time is nailed down.

Thanks everyone.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Diesel911 and a few others made some off set plates to move the filter over to clear web bracing of the pwr steering bracket. he also mentioned he replaced the clear hard lines with rubber fuel line.
I decided to keep it all looking stock except for the longer cat Fuel filter.

I used a HF 3" cut off, and with the edge of the wheel, filed back the webs that were interfering with the filter. I think there are 3 that need to be ground back a little bit. I have them all filed smooth so it does not look like a hack job. This is on the 85 300D.

The 240D has a Racor 2 micron in place of the pre-Filter. I need to get to it and do the Cat mod for it also. When I do, I`ll probably go to a 10 Micron on the Racor. The Racor with it`s sediment bowl really catches the water and what ever.

My w123`s especially the 240D is my daily driver, and not some little hobby thing. So I need and want it to run the best and as long as I can w/o any problems.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

What materials are you using and what is the estimate for final cost?

This maybe an option. Buy a Baldwin FB1311 filter head
http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/PartSpecification.asp?partnumber=FB1311

Cut the Baldwin (aluminum) center stud off with a hacksaw and file smooth and true (checked with T square). Make your own Teflon washers assemble onto the Mercedes filter head center stud and screw it down with a cone taper nut. The only machining necessary is the cone nut to center the Baldwin stud since the Mercedes filter head center bolt is smaller in diameter than the Baldwin center stud hole.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Just a 1" long chunk of 1"-14 TPI threaded rod, which I'll be punching a 14-1.5mm threaded hole in the center of. Final cost is pending machining costs, but it's looking like I'll be able to use a buddy's lathe and make it myself. Cost should be quite reasonable, and the finished adapter will easily fit in a small USPS flat rate box. I may be able to provide the CAT filter as well, although obviously that will require a larger shipping container.

At my last job I did lots of machining and had unrestricted access to the scrap bin and all the tools after hours, I dearly miss that.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Threaded rods are usually Zinc plated steel. Zinc and diesel forms a gray sludge over time, not something you want for better filtration. Aluminum is much better. Make sure you strip the zinc coating if that's what you'll be using. The FB1311 filter base requires the use of an o-ring (actually it is "D" shaped). I am suspecting the CAT filter also has something similar so make sure you machine it with the "O" or "D" ring (which ever it may be) in mind.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The Baldwin Filter Housing seemed good till I read this: Inlet: 7/8-14 UNF
Outlet: 7/8-14 UNF.
Those are not pipe threads meaning that is is going to be more cosly to find Fittings with a Hose barb on them.

It is possible to coat a Pipe Bushing with JB Weld and screw it into the 7/8 threaded area and end up with somehing you can screw Pipe threaded Fittings into (I have never tried doing that). But 7/8" is a large hole.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Nothing has happend to my adapter and I simply grabbed a bar of all thread out of the bin.

The inside threads on the CAT Filter are Aluminum. I have always found Aluminum to Aluminum surfaces to be rather grabby when they are foced together.

The inside threads of the Baldwin Version of the CAT Filter are Steel.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The Effects of Zinc in Diesel Fuel Systems | eHow

TheDieselStop.Com Forums: Will Zinc plating chemically react with diesel

http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-1644.html

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I think you misunderstood my post. It is not to use the entire Baldwin base but rather cut off the 1-14 center threaded stud and put it on the Mercedes base.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

When you get to putting together this as a kit, let me know, and I'll gladly take one off your hands.

Then the next question is will there be enough meat in the inner ID for it to be drilled and tapped out for the The Stock Filter Bolt?

If it does need to be drilled and tapped is the drill without a Lathe going to run down the hole straight? I think the answer is maybe.

Note that if you have access to a Lathe it is cheaper if you are making several to buy all threaded Rod then to buy a Filter Housing; unless you can get some good deal on the Filter Housing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not a problem I have known about the Zinc issue since I was told that back in Trade School (1970s).

Back then some People would put a Diesel into an old Pick Up Truck but would use the same Fuel Tank that came with the Truck.

Back then the Gasoline Cars had Fuel Tanks that were Zinc pated. If you put Diesel in them the Zinc would cause grief.

But, there is difference in the amount of Zinc that is in what they Plate common Bolts with and if you by a Zinc Plated Bolt that has a heavy layer of Zinc on it.

If you by a slighly yellow colored or silver colored Plated Bolt there is not enough Zinc mixed in with the other Plating mateial to cause any grief.

All of the All Threaded Rods sold at the local Hardware Stores have Silver Colored Plating or none.

The amount of Plating that is on All Threaded Rod or common Bolts can be quickly buffed off if you have a Grinder that has a Wire Wheel on it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would 100% be on board to getting one of these from you. I'm still getting rust build up in the prefilter, hate to think of what is getting fed into the IP.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

I am interested in this mod also, for 2 cars, both OM617. I have a drill press and like to experiment but it sounds like you are going to do a better job than I would. I'll probably do the grinding Charmalu mentioned rather than the offset plate.

Thanks.

I am not sure I got what I read. The grinding I remember is so the outside diametner of the Filter dose not hit the casting web on the Filter Housing.

The spacer Plate was so the longer Filter on the bottom end would clear the Casting Web that is on that really sturdy Casting that the Power Steering Pump is mounted on.
I suppose someone could Casting that the Power Steering Pump is mounted on that but I know I did not want to do that when I did the mod on mine.

Some people can be extremely accurate with a Drill Press and drill a hole right down the center of somthing but they are few and far between. I have poor luck with that sort of thing.

The same when running a Tap throug the hole by hand. It is possible to get the Tap going crooked.
On the Lathe the hole gets drilled straight down the Center and then you can exchange the Drill Bit for a Tap and the Tap is also going to go straight into the hole.

In my case I lock the Lathe Spindle/Cuck so it won't turn and turn the Tap by hand with a small wrench while the Tap is centerd in the Lathe.

I have never attempted tapping on the Lathe with the Motor turning the Chuck becaus I have only Hand Taps and you need to turn Hand Taps backwards to cut the Chips.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel