You show your inexperience with diesel engines by calling the proper nomenclature "semantics". Thus your words certainly contain less objective advice. Your world of vehicles and the rest of the world are not the same.

I am very interested. I looked at the other threads which were links in the beginning of this thread.

Here are some of my assumptions, so please jump in ...

1. The mod'd filter will "fit" on the stock filter housing and in the same location. I think DeliveryValve said the only mod to the stock filter housing is some slight filing down of the sides, e.g, a few mms but otherwise it fits just fine, with just a longer filter;

2. The new and improved filter is pretty common, and not too pricey;

3. The new filter set up will filter down to 2 microns; and

4. There are no related mod's to this one. This is the zinger for me. I say this having done a few mods, and one mod always requires another mod and the domino effect takes place. I see where some folks indicate a secondary type of pump might be needed because the lower filtration rate would mean more "pump" is needed. I don't mind the idea of an additional pump, especially burning grease.

Totally agree. I can see newer engines with much higher injection pressures needing better fuel filtration. On 617's it's a make you feel good exercise and won't actually do much, if not properly executed, will cause more issues than it's worth. Inline M and MW IP's are lubricated by engine oil, not by fuel as in the VE IP's and have much longer trouble free life for the most part.

IMO, a much more useful mod is a water separator with a water-in-fuel alarm located before the lift pump.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Four interested so far, thank you folks.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Again, it really looks like this is a solution in search of a problem.

I would have to agree. While 2 micron filtration is valuable on HPCR systems that work near 30,000 PSI, it is of limited value on our Mercedes where the original fuel system will probably outlast the car.

Glacier Diesel Products sells a nice add-on system and they are excellent to deal with if you really must have one. I have it on my 2003 Dodge, but never even considered it for the old Mercedes.

__________________
'83 300D, 126K miles.

Actually the CAT Fuel Filter Mod is was mine. With the CAT Fuel Filter (one the 617.952) because it is longer you need to move the Filter Housing to the rear one inch or so to avoid the metal casting below it and you need to bend or remove the Sheet Metal part that holds the Glow Plug Wires together and is attached to the mentioned Metal Part.

The CAT 1R-0750 has a smaller diameter then the Wix (the WIX version is not 2 absolute mircons but 2 nominal microns) or Baldwin Version have a larger OD and you need to remove a little metal from the lower sides of the Filter Housing. With the CAT 1R-0750 you may or may not need to remove some metal from that area.
The good news is it is Aluminum and easy to remove Metal from.

I moved my Filter Housing straight back and away far enough that it that it was stretching the Plastic Fuel Lines and I replaced them with Rubber Hose.
The Hose has caused no issues and remember you have Hose under your Fuel Tank and the Fuel Inlet has hose.
I don't feel the lose of the Plastic Line as the Lines were so dark I could not see through them.

I mad a seperate Plate that required drilling 4 Holes and 2 more Bolts and nuts.

Replacing the Plastic Lines might have been avoided because on the Delivery Valve Mod with the Baldwin BF7591-D instead of moving it straight back he pivoted the Filter Housing with the inside Corner being stationary and the out side corner ending up further to the rear.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The value of better filtration comes into play when you get a Tank Full of contaminated Diesel Fuel.

When that happens the Stock Fuel Filter is going to pass 50% of the 10 micron and smaller through the Filter in a large volume. Untill all of the Fuel in the Fuel Tank has passed through the Filter enough times to reduce the amount of particles in it.
In the above case the large volume of particles is going to do some damage. More so then if the Fuel was clean to start with.

So as long as the Fuel you put in the Tank is reasonably clean to begin with the 10 nominal micron Filter will do the job.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There's virtually no debate over better fuel filtration as being an optimal solution.

This is something that is done in the marine environment where Diesel Fuel contaminants are common and to a certain extent normal.

The short story is they set up a separate from the Engine/s Fuel Pump that is dedicated to pumping Fuel through a larger and finer Filter that is also separate from the Engine Filters to clean the Fuel in the Fuel Tank in an attempt to keep the Fuel in the Tank a clean as possible.

Captn wil’s diesel fuel polishing system

In any event My choice was to do the Fuel Filter Mod and add a Bypass Oil Filter to My Car instead of doing something like polishing My Valve Cover that would not add anything to the longevity of My Engine.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Apparently there is and that is what a forum is for.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Although the 1R-0750 technically is not a true water separator, for all intents and purposes, if you think finer of fuel filtration is not needed in these motors then the 1R-0750's ability to trap water in it's deep body is definitely another benefit to consider.

The stock 616/617 fuel filter is very shallow and cannot separate the water. If you ever get a fill of diesel with some water, having this ability to trap water is a plus to protect your injection components.

Another is the cost benefit that I've taken with my own Cat filter use by extending replacement intervals. The heavy diesels engines that these filters are designed for have a fuel milleage of about 5 miles per gallon. The fuel filters are usually are changed at 10,000 mile intervals. That like 2000 gallons going through that filter.
On my TDI (I use the Baldwin 7591d on my 300d), I have a change interval of 40,000 miles but I could potentially go 70k before I hit 2000 gallons.

On another note regarding the micron rating. Cat has stated in the past the 1R-0750 can filter 98% of 2 micron particles. But a few years ago they changed the way they the calculate the ratings. So now the 1R-0750 is 4 micron filter and introduced the Ultra High Efficiency (UHE) line of filters with a higher efficiency. The 319-0844 is the UHE equivalent for the 1R-0750. But the interesting fact is the new CAT calculations do not go beyond 4 microns, so the 319-0844 is listed as a 4 micron filter.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

No, not really. Someone can debate that the moon is made out of green cheese, but it's really not a debate just because someone whats to make it one.

I want better oil filtration. Anyone got an idea to get that?

__________________
84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800

I think to do that you need to add a Bypass Type Oil Filter. There is a few threads on that.

This applies on the 617.952 Engines
You need to be willing to do some drilling and tapping in 2 places.
The easiest place to get the pressurized Oil from is to tap and drill the Oil Filter Housing top/Lid. I did that with a 1/8" Pipe tap.

I believe it was ForcedInduction that drilled and tapped the Valve Cover over the Timing Chain so that the return Oil would run down on the Timing Chain.

I am not sure what is in My old thread any more as I have experimented with several Filter setups looking for a cheap Filter that also works. I made a mistake on the first setup and did not pick a filter that filtered fine enough.

I am currently using a Frantz (Toilet Paper) Oil Filter.
ForcedInduction (has a thread) used and Amsoil spin-on Bypass Oil Filter with a generic Filter Base (you can get them on eBay).


Bypass Oil Filter Setup, 617.952
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=215593&highlight=Bypass+Oil+Filter+Setup%2C+617.952

This is a Pic of the Frantz type bypass Oil Filter. I got a couple on eBay at various prices and also managed to get a Motorguard Bypass Oil Filter (also uses Tiolet Paper as an Element)not shown.
On eBay the Frantz Filter on the low end are in the $40s and shoot on up to over $100 depeding condition and if it is a complete Kit or not.

That is an older Motorguard. The newer one are used to filter Oil and Water out of compressed Air systems but have plastic Parts inside that now makes them unsuited for use as Oil Filters.

I presently have the Frantz on the Mercedes right now.

There is other types of Bypass Oil Filters. Many show up on eBay with all you should do a little research.
ForcedInductions thread
By-pass oil filter install

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is the big point for me.

For awhile I was running on a fuel tank that I had no clue was incredibly rusty. I also got a couple batches of contaminated fuel. Clogged a bunch of filters, with a constant stream of rust particles getting past the 10 micron filter and getting into my IP and injectors. It's now it's looking like my IP is trashed and has been causing my troubles for quite some time. I really think this would have either been less of an issue or prevented completely by effective filters. Diesel911 mentioned fuel components having 7x the lifespan with a 2 micron vs. a 10 micron filter under normal use - well what about if there's a constant stream of abrasive trash going into the system?

I'll be switching to the CAT 2 micron filter on the pressure side with a large prefilter/water separator on the suction side for many reasons.

1. Under adverse conditions I do not think the stock MBZ filtration is adequate.

2. With extended change intervals, the better filters are also less expensive.

3. The CAT filter is MUCH more common, used on a HUGE array of on and off road equipment. The MBZ secondary filter is pretty much MBZ diesel only. In most parts stores, it's a special order and a couple days away. The CAT filter or an equivalent that will get you down the road are available at any auto parts store, truck shop, heavy equipment shop, farm store, etc.

The lift pumps on these engines will pull air past hose clamps and will collapse a fuel tank, they won't have any issues pulling or pushing fuel through these filters. The mod's been done before, the engines are happy.

This isn't meant to be a debate, this whole thread has gone wildly off-track. These are the reasons I'll be converting, if others think it's unnecessary, that's fine too.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap