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#61
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Good point. Your injectors may have been replaced since as well. Since your glowplugs looked fine. I'm having this battle with Nissan. My car had a noisy injector. I kept saying it was a big deal, they didn't believe me. Well it was #2. And #2 burnt a rod bearing and the piston. They just had to put a new motor in, and did all new injectors.... |
#62
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After rebuilding my prechamber extraction tool to accommodate the larger 5/8" 5# slide hammer in the AutoZone tool loaner program, I got #3 prechamber out. It had no ball in it. It was really tight in there - so much so that I thought it was catching on something.
Here are the set of prechambers front and back side-by-side. I popped the injectors with the following results #1 1850# good #2 1850# good (some occasional streaming under lower pressure) #3 1800# good #4 1850# good #5 1850# good I'd say that these are as good as or almost as good as the ones I have in the car right now - very close. I have no explanation of the apparent increasing severity of the erosion of the ball going from 1 to 5. #1 appears completely normal. I'm beginning to imagine a scenario where the car began starting hard (maybe to the point where ether was used routinely), running really poorly and the owner elected to install new glow plugs and new injectors, only to find it still ran poorly. Not wanting to put more money into it, just elected to junk it. When I tested the engine prior to purchase, my only criteria was that it ran. I was not terribly sensitive to how well as I knew I could most likely time it, replace injectors and glow plugs and get it up to spec. I was trying to protect myself against a skipped/broken chain, ultra poor compression, or something catastrophic that would make it a known bad engine. So when it ran, idled and revved up, that's all I was focused on. Given the condition of the prechambers, it's likely it was running on the glow plugs as I just had them connected directly to the battery for the duration of the test. I'm kind of disappointed that I don't apparently have a spare engine ready to go, but for the $400 I paid for the engine and transmission I'm definitely good. I've already used the transmission and the starter, easily worth the price of admission.
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#63
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#64
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plus, any difference in the size of the pre chamber tip holes between those that have balls and those that don't?
And is it an optical illusion that the #3 pre chamber looks slightly longer and with a more rounded tip on it? |
#65
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It looks more rounded to me as well
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#66
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And it is more rounded. They're all stamped 617/03 Not sure what all that means other than someone was in there presumably trying to fix something...
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#67
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The head may or may not be toast, but the rest of the engine should be fine. Spray some preservative wax/oil into it, seal it all up and stick back into storage.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
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I think a better course of action would be to boroscope or yank the head and verify that the rest of the engine is indeed fine before sticking it in storage and relying on it as a spare.
I can attest to how much it SUCKS to go through a lengthy install time for an engine just to have it fall apart.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#69
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I'm vaguely remembering an update to the design. From 3 hole to 5 hole. I mentioned this before but the fsm says they are wear items. |
#70
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One possible snag with that scenario is that I've used the good starter off the spare engine and I'm not about to pull it off the car just to do a compression check. I'm hoping that there's enough life left in the "bad" one to spin the engine enough with only one cylinder under compression to get some decent results. I'm digging the optimism, but not allowing my hopes to get up too high. I'd rather not waste a set of prechamber seals on a compression check on a potentially bad head/engine. Do you think I'll be ok with reusing the seals for that process - maybe an ultra thin coat of RTV or gasket sealer for the test?
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#71
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Try it! You're not going to be heat cycling or dealing with combustion pressures. Maybe put some soapy water on them while testing to see if there are leaks.
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#72
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Luckily the bottom of the prechambers was all in tact and did not look like this:
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#73
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Indeed!
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#74
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Interesting. Someone might calculate the volume of the missing pre-chamber ball. It must certainly add TDC volume and thus lower compression ratio. Low compression for some might be due to a vaporized ball, rather than worn rings. I always use the injector hole for compression measurement, in which case it is easy to peer down and verify each pre-chamber still has its ball intact. By the same token, always insure your compression fitting occupies the same volume as the injector did. My kit has a ring you must install to insure that.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#75
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Hey M4,
Did you pull the ball out of that chewed up prechamber to see what it looks like?
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
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