If the Oil Line is seeping around the Collar the Oil Line is defective and you should speak with Pelican about what is needed to replace the line under warranty.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hi Diesel911. Yep, I sent Pelican Parts an email through their ticket system this afternoon. We'll see how they respond.

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Yeah thats how everyone feels at first. Ive been welding a long time (18 years? Jesus Im only 30), so its hard to remember.

Maybe you could grab a broken radiator somewhere to play with. If you choose to go that route. Its nice to fix your radiator yourself. Especially in California where you cant pay someone to.

The other problem, that solder is nasty stuff. I wear a full gas mask with the correct filters. And its illegal to do in some states maybe. Although this isn't a radiator.

@Lucas
Ha, we're the same age. I've never welded before in my life though

So, just as a little update: after several emails back and forth between Pelicanparts, they have resolved the issue in a satisfactory manner (good customer service, really!), and I'll get a new line hopefully next week (Wednesday I hope).

I hope I have time to switch out the lines next week or so, and then...finally!...I should be able to drive my car with the peace of mind knowing that there is nothing crucial about to break.
Of course, that leaves literally everything that is non-crucial still very much broken....but....As long as I can actually drive it, the rest will get taken care off. Though, there is some worrisome rust. Or...Well, when I say rust, what I really mean is: lack of metal at certain parts of the floor pan... Not sure yet how I am going to fix that, I guess I'll have to find a place to weld that for me.

But, first things first: oil line.

And the first stop when it really drives? Car wash!

Attached Thumbnails

 

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Haha. I grew up on a farm.


I wouldnt weld on the body myself. Too easy to warp it.

If going for gold, yeah pay someone.

If trying to keep water out, get some flashing, cut to fit, and silicone/rivet/screw it down.

I like this idea, I'd add treating the existing rust to try to slow it down, and then using NP-1 caulk to seal inside between floor and new flashing.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Just find an old school bodyman. I had my 78 Datsun Z floor patched so it looks factory for $200. That cost less than .y time and is much better than my skills allow.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Hi Certismo,

I tried to warn you about the Trucktec when you first posted on this job. There is a Burgaflex line available as well. It's more difficult to find and more expensive (~$90-$100). It is what I used and we'll see if it holds on mine (good after about 3000 miles so far).

If it doesn't hold up, I'm going to do what mach4 did.

Dkr.

@Dkr
Yes, I know. I don't like the idea of putting another Trucktec line on there either, but I wasn't able to find much else.
I have Googled for a while and searched other online stores, but they all sell the Trucktec lines for twice what PelicanParts does. Other websites have it listed as "Monarch" and "Made in Germany", but the line looks identical. The same gold color, and it looks the same where the rubber is crimped on the metal.

I have noticed the difference seems to be that other lines (like my upper line) have three "ribs" on the metal side where the rubber meets the metal, but the trucktec only has one "rib". Maybe that has to do with them being more prone to leaking, there just isn't as much rubber inserted into the metal as with the other lines.

I do believe that Trucktec is vastly inferior to the original lines, but I don't believe that means that all Trucktec lines are bad.
So, since PelicanParts is sending me a new line, I'm going to take a second chance and put another Trucktec line in.


Of course, if that one were to leak right away just as the old one did, I'd never ever use Trucktec again....

__________________
"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

I replaced one of those oil lines and it was a bear (removed motor mount from block). If me, I would disconnect it and cut the metal collar off. Use an air cut-off wheel, hacksaw, and/or Dremel tool. Use hose clamps instead. The best are Oeticker(sp?) type, but you must be able to slide out the metal fitting to put those on (use 2). A screw hose clamp can work (use 2). See posts here. The after-market AC hoses on my 65 Newport has those and haven't leaked in 50 years.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Yeah, I just did this job a month ago and it wasn't very pleasant. It'll probably be easier now though, I'm assuming the lines won't be as stuck as they were.
I can't cut the lower line, because I need to ship it back in one piece for a refund...

__________________
"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

This is the one I bought and the seller - $140 on eBay.

New Burgaflex Engine Oil Line 617 187 12 82 for Mercedes | eBay

Dkr.

At prices like that, doing Mach4s mod seems like a no-brainer.

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1998 VW Cabrio
2001 Audi SomeRoad A/T (no air suspension)
2003 Audi DeadRoad M/T (no vroom, for later)
2002 Audi NoRoad A/T (nothing under the hood, being rebuilt)

It would have to be an AUDIO alarm...like airplanes use for important warnings.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Actually, Mach4's mod adds an additional potential point of failure. And, while it appears to be a good design, I still have some concern about the quality of materials considering how it is very possible nowadays to buy products that are marked for one spec but really built for another, largely due to the epidemic of made in China.

I would rather put my money on the original design and made in Germany, Europe or America.

Dkr.