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#1
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W123 tranny not going into drive right away
From parking or reverse it takes me about 6 seconds before drive engages, also have like a downshift bump after i come to a complete stop, are these aymptoms familiar to anyone?
1983 300d us 5k miles ago new trans filter and gasket with mobil 1 syn atf |
#2
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I had something similar in two of my beasts, and replacing the gear shift bushings did the trick. They hold all the shift bits firmly in the right place, and over time they get worn out. Not a bad job, cheap parts, and a definite easy "a/b" test.
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Current: 1980 300D "Blush" 1985 300TDT "Walter" 1995 e320 wagon "Sopwith Llama" Greatly missed: 1985 300TD "R2D2" Don't really miss much at all: 1983 240D "Dee" |
#3
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ok thanks so much, would you mind giving me an more info, im not locating the gear shift bushings in my memory bank right away.
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W123 1985 300TD naturally aspirated |
#4
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Certainly the levers need to be in the correct places... so the bushings are great....
But this also sounds like it might be the slowed movement of the little BB sized balls used in the auto trans as one way valves.... they depend on GRAVITY ..... so cleanliness inside the bore they are in is important to routing the hydraulic fluid which controls the inside of your trans.... And it IS important not to ignore what is happening.... like ' I can live with this little deal'... as slow engagement of your auto clutches will GREATLY accelerate their WEAR...... If you do a search of Trans X using my name you will find my experience with it... it is just a solvent for the varnish that builds up naturally ..... over the years... the change out mileage suggestion for these transmissions is LOWER than many people are used to... Be sure to follow the directions... it may take two of the cans depending on your car... my wagon used two.... so a total of $16 for the first insertion... you can suck out the amount you need to add to the trans.... then drive it for a number of miles..... and also put it into all the gears just idling.... a minute per gear.... for maybe twenty minutes...... then change out the fluid and filter.... adding back in a small amount of the trans x to be left in the system.... There may be other brands which do just as well.. I just never tried them after this worked so well on a couple of cars way back.. Read and follow the directions on the side of the can..... JUST putting in new fluid does not deal with old varnish built up... needs the solvent...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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__________________
Current: 1980 300D "Blush" 1985 300TDT "Walter" 1995 e320 wagon "Sopwith Llama" Greatly missed: 1985 300TD "R2D2" Don't really miss much at all: 1983 240D "Dee" |
#6
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Was it doing this before the last fluid and filter change or did it start after? First and foremost, make sure the correct type of fluid is in there as well as the proper amount!!
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#7
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Agree with the poster above. I would also say that synthetic oil may not be good for the trans. I use dex/merc as dexIII is harder to come by. I would go over the manual and use what they recommend. Correct level is also very important.
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#8
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My 84 300TD has a short delay before going into gear. I didn't give it much thought, it's 30 years old!
I was looking over the neutral safety switch, as I had to jump the car with a pair of pliers two weeks ago, and noticed that the shift bushings were very worn and have lots of lost motion. I'm going to replace them(they need it!) and I suspect they are the problem with not always starting, not the switch. I'm now curious if they will eliminate the delay, also. Fwiw. W. |
#9
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If this is not DEXRON II then that could be your trouble.
These transmissions are notoriously fussy when it comes not only to the type of fluid but the level. Once you have exhausted the external checks (many of which have been mentioned already) then the next stage should always be to make hydraulic measurements and compare those measurements with the data in the FSM. It is boring. It is tedious. But in the long run it will save one heck of a lot of "cocking about"!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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Quote:
On the previous lists I was on for years (the mbz.org lists), many people were running Mobil1 synthetic ATF, in fact some found the switch improved shift quality greatly. However, the question of whether to make the switch on higher-mileage transmissions was always an open one. You mean that you folks around the world can still get ATF marked Dextron II? It's almost impossible here in Canada. Everything on the shelf is now marked "multi-spec" as far as I can tell.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#11
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Using the correct trans fluid....at the right level .... is critical....
but by itself.... changing to the proper fluid may not be enough to correct the situation if it is being caused by a build up of varnish in the small holes which control the hydraulic operation of the clutches in the transmission.... So some kind of solvent procedure may be needed before putting in the correct type and level of transmission fluid. There are several on the market ... I have only tried Trans X.... follow can instructions to the letter .. meaning you have to find out how many oz of fluid your trans holds so the cleaning procedure can be at the proper strength... The stuff has saved a couple of cars lives for me... described in the archives...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#12
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Quote:
W. |
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