This is the easiest way to re install an ip..or how I did it..

Set the crank at 24 degrees..

Remove the oil fill cap, confirm both cam lobes on cylinder 1 are bunny eared...

Remove injection pump, line up the notches...and lock the injection pump...

Re install the injection pump..

Bleed all the air out of the pump

Then drip time it...

I would highly recommend not removing the oil filter housing! I had leaks for some time plus you need to cut an allen wrench and hope to get the bolts out...then if you twist one of the oil cooler line nipples out of the housing you can destroy the aluminum threads. I believe my 78 is still running around for years with out that bolt behind the oil filter housing..

__________________

Someone earlier linked this thread - it's worth skimming at least - but the point for now is that it shows you where the crank timing marks eliminate any mystery about 15 degrees ATDC. See shots in first post at Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952

Ultimately it didn't seem worthwhile to me to go through the gymnastics & cussing it takes to r&r the IP without pulling out the OF/block assembly - I went partway there some weeks back before the weather turned to crap and other projects grabbed my attention, but won't keep trying to get it out without taking out the OF stuff.

Where are you in Hawaii?

Coincidentally I'm in a long, interrupted process of removing/replacing my 617 IP (in the back of muddy Palolo Valley), but just with the intent to replace the gasket. As someone else commented, the OEM gasket (and the replacement I got) are lame, thin things that would probably best be replaced with something thicker. I'm going to cut/punch a replacement custom. I didn't think about this before but I suspect that they don't recommend gasket-sealer here because it would make it difficult or impossible to rotate the IP to adjust timing.

__________________
'83 300SD - daily driver
'97 Dodge Cummins
'60 & '64 Minis
...etc...

Great info! Somehow I missed the photo of the balancer at the 15° mark. Good tip on just peaking through the oil cap to verify as well.

What kind of gasket material should I be working with?

I was also curious how the oil manages to circulate through the IP with only the one hole in front.

I will attempt to remove the existing one with the oil housing in place. And just leave the bracket off for instaltion for now.

How does one confirm from the IP part number that its a matching pump? Could it be from a naturally asperated engine?

Thanks guys!

I highly doubt there would be an N/A pump with a RPS. It is most definitely for a turbo.

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

I like fuel pump gasket material. Real thick and sturdy. Anything designed for gasoline is prob the most resilient. I buy it in small roles.

But what will with stand the pump being rotated?

When I buy gaskets, I goto the dealer.

Make sure you yank the GP's or make sure the injector line nuts are loose when cranking over the engine by hand with the breaker bar. I've not personally had it happen(Thank the gods, I'd be posting this from a cemetery most likely) but other here with infinitely more experience than I have reported an engine starting in this manner.

That could be bad.

No compression also makes it easier to crank over and easier to hit the right spot without going past it.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Finally got the parts I need to swap IPs. As I was cleaning the donor pump and setting the injector pieces back in I noticed that if they weren't sitting just right they would cause the whole fuel rack to bind just like my original installed pump. So with the pump still installed I removed all the pieces, and behold, the rack is free moving!

But no matter how much I clean and pb blast the components the rack is unresponsive as soon as I install any 2 out of 5 pieces. Unless anyone has any ideas how to get the injection rod twisty things(technical name?) To have more play in the sleeves I'm going to go ahead with the swap anyways. Also tried taking the sleeves out of the donor pump, but they had even less clearance.

So very frustrating to have this car down for so long because of light binding or a weak spring. If I could over ride the springs in the IP and just hook the throttle up directly to the fuel rack I would be back on the road with my smoke bomb in no time!

Will update with pics if I have any luck today!

New pump is in! Took her for a smoke bomb ride without the ALDA on to make sure everything else was still working. Burned through my full 1.75ltr(1/2 gal) vodka bottle of diesel in one mile. The smoke trail was visible for miles. Not sure if the loud engine sounds are from excessive fuel or bad timing. I suspect both. Will update if I can calm the beast. I was kind of hoping I'd be able to spin the tires with that much fuel going in, the turbo kicks in at near idle speeds.

Taking all suggestions for fine tuning.

Thanks!