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  #16  
Old 05-14-2015, 01:49 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
I used one of these to remove some stripped bolts on the oil pan with great success. The only question is whether you've got clearance to fit over the head of the bolt.




Two of the bolts you won't be able to get out with that tool, too wide. I've successfully jammed with a hammer an expendable 1/4 inch 9mm socket on them to get them out. It might work for the OP.
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  #17  
Old 05-14-2015, 02:11 PM
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There are right angle and close quarters drills that can be used in tight spaces. I have one from Harbor Freight as I seldom use it, but it's done the job when necessary. Great for installs and driving self-tapping screws under the dash as well.
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  #18  
Old 05-14-2015, 02:14 PM
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Harbor Freight also has a set of left handed drill bits for not much money. My water pump bolt was rusted so bad that the hole would have been tapped. Fortunately only 1 bolt was wouldn't come out.
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  #19  
Old 05-14-2015, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: May 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
There are right angle and close quarters drills that can be used in tight spaces. I have one from Harbor Freight as I seldom use it, but it's done the job when necessary. Great for installs and driving self-tapping screws under the dash as well.
Actually, I just remembered I have a right angle drill, like this:



That should work perfectly for getting in there.

Last night I thought about using a 9mm socket and pounding it on. I'm down to 2 bolts now, the 6 and 9 o'clock bolts are all that remain. My new gasket just arrived at the local MB Dealership, so I'm heading over to pick that up at lunch time.

Once I get this resolved, all that remains is motor mounts, e-brake adjusting, steering couplers, ball joints, new shocks, exhaust hangers, cruise control amp, tie rod ends.....
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Vacuum Pump Bolts Stripped-spin_prod_960105812.jpeg  
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2015, 02:22 AM
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Join Date: May 2015
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I tried every darn thing I possibly could. I tried easy outs into the bolt heads, drilling them out and using an easy out (not enough access for the drill), using the bolt extractors linked above (one size too small, the next too large), etc.

I drilled out one of the bolt heads. Now I only had one bolt left. I spent about 6 hours on this bolt. Finally, I called it quits and just pulled the vacuum pump until it snapped off the area where the final bolt remained. I grabbed the Vice Locks, clamped them down, and got the stupid bolt out.

Good thing I already have a vacuum pump ready and waiting. I'm sad and frustrated it came to this, but whats done is done.

I'll post some photos tomorrow.

I don't know why Mercedes thought grade 8.8 bolts was sufficient. My new bolts are grade 12.9 (IIRC). This should prevent similar grief in the future.

One quick question, though: Both pumps (mine and the one from the junk yard) have RTV sealant on the gasket. Is this needed? I bought a new MB Gasket from the dealer. I'm not a big fan of RTV when it can be avoided.
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2015, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JessieAMorris View Post
...
One quick question, though: Both pumps (mine and the one from the junk yard) have RTV sealant on the gasket. Is this needed? I bought a new MB Gasket from the dealer. I'm not a big fan of RTV when it can be avoided.
Good move.

That gasket is very important - it provides the correct distance from the block to the pump.

Before you fit the pump push up against the timing device (quite hard) to see if you can detect any longitudinal movement. If it moves towards the IP (or away from the IP) you really need to break out the DTI to measure that end float / play...
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2015, 06:42 PM
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Join Date: May 2015
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I have good news and bad news:

First, the good: I got the pump back on!

Now, the bad news (and there is plenty of that): The pump is still only pulling about 15". Also, when I pulled my radiator out I noticed that the transmission fluid has a very odd color. I'm sure that the radiator has failed. Now I need to go pull one from a junkyard (dealer wants $450 for a new one). I also got the transmission filter and gasket and plan to drain and replace the filter.

It's always something...
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  #23  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:20 AM
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Join Date: May 2015
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And now the Transmission gasket the Mercedes dealer gave me is the wrong one. It's for a w201, not w126!
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  #24  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:51 AM
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That bites!

You can use RTV for the trans pan instead of waiting on the gasket. Gray or black RTV are my preferred flavors, blue just turns to goo. Get both surfaces CLEAN, I like carb cleaner for this. Lay down a bead, put the pan in place and just tighten the bolts enough to get an even 1/8" gap between the pan and trans, filled with RTV. Let cure overnight, then torque bolts the rest of the way.
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  #25  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA View Post
That bites!

You can use RTV for the trans pan instead of waiting on the gasket. Gray or black RTV are my preferred flavors, blue just turns to goo. Get both surfaces CLEAN, I like carb cleaner for this. Lay down a bead, put the pan in place and just tighten the bolts enough to get an even 1/8" gap between the pan and trans, filled with RTV. Let cure overnight, then torque bolts the rest of the way.
I'll just wait. I'm headed to the dealership tomorrow to pick up my new vacuum pump check valve and some e-brake hardware. I think it's in stock.
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  #26  
Old 05-19-2015, 05:25 PM
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Went to the dealer today and got my check valve, e-brake stuff, and gasket. Everything is looking good.

Attached Thumbnails
Vacuum Pump Bolts Stripped-image.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:18 AM
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It's better (significantly) but not perfect.

The vacuum pump is now pulling about 19". I did a bit more looking and discovered there's a leak in the climate control on specific settings. I'll have to dig into this and try to get it figured out.

Where's the best place to purchase vacuum connectors?
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  #28  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:37 AM
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where are you measuring the vacuum from? to test your pump you should remove the brake booster hardline and be testing right from the check valve on top of the VP
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  #29  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:53 AM
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I was checking at the end of the hard line, going from the vacuum pump to the start of the black line. Theres a disconnecter there that I am testing it at.
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  #30  
Old 05-20-2015, 08:39 PM
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Join Date: May 2015
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I've got a bit of a strange issue I wanted to confirm with everyone here.

I found my vacuum leak in the climate control (just a disconnected hose, taken care of and the engine shuts off properly now).

While I was testing this, I noticed some odd behavior on the check valve in the brake booster line.

Mine has three outlets (not including the one going to the brake booster). One up top for the lock system and two on bottom. The one on bottom toward the front of the car seems to be working correctly. I get great vacuum from it.

The one towards the rear of the car (also has a small white strip on it) seems to draw very little vacuum. It takes 30 seconds or so to get 20" pulled on it. I'm guessing that my check valve is bad and that I should see the vacuum get to 20" in a couple seconds, not 30+?
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