Tranny leak, not pan. - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Maxbumpo · #31 05-20-2015, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hounds

Since I don't have a surefire method to take the temperature at which it is supposed to be read, is there any 'more or less' method of time running at a certain speed or whatever?

This is what I do. Once the coolant temperature has reached normal level, drive for another 15 minutes minimum until the oil pressure at idle drops to what is normal for your car (on my cars that is about 1.5 bar at idle). When the engine oil temperature has reached steady-state, then you can be confident that the transmission ATF is also at steady-state and you can get an accurate measurement, which is done at a level surface with the engine idling.

Zulfiqar · #32 05-20-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Oh to live in a climate like that=> I bet the average temperature for most parts of the year is closer to 5 degrees C round here!

that would create an interesting set of problems..

cold and wet.. wow you must have got tolerance of a trained ninja

Hounds · #33 05-26-2015, 08:47 PM

OK. Leak apparently went away for the most part. From driving around town on and off again for say 1 hour of running it looked good. A TINY little drop and the dipstick read right on the middle.
I took car for a 3 hour trip one way and it was leaking a little bit more like before. Checked dipstick and it was 1/4 to 1/2 inch OVER the high mark. SHould I take more fluid out?
Keep driving it some more?

dieselbenz1 · #34 05-26-2015, 11:02 PM

I am wondering how you read the oil level. Just one dip or do you take multiple dips until you have 3 readings which are identical?

Hounds · #35 05-27-2015, 09:49 AM

Hey dieselbenz,

I do multiple readings yes. No way would I trust just one reading. I make sure car is level and stick is wiped clean every time.

This is the weirdest thing ever. I've had plenty of diesel trucks and another 300SD that never had this. So now I'm suspecting it may have had a leak the entire effing time. ? Since I've owned it. Coming from the seal. ?

When I drained it the first time, I put back exactly the same amount I took out. THAT is the reason I am confused the level changned so much. When I first picked up the car, it was only warmed up and driven for 20 minutes maybe 30. I drove for one hour straight then stopped and checked all levels and the tranny was just a tad low on the dipstick but nothing to worry about. I did not see any significant leak if any.

Get home, the next day. Do the change and WHAM leaking. So I did something, just not sure. OR is it by chance alone? lol Now statistically talking bs here. LOL

thanks.

Zulfiqar · #36 05-27-2015, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hounds

OK. Leak apparently went away for the most part. From driving around town on and off again for say 1 hour of running it looked good. A TINY little drop and the dipstick read right on the middle.
I took car for a 3 hour trip one way and it was leaking a little bit more like before. Checked dipstick and it was 1/4 to 1/2 inch OVER the high mark. SHould I take more fluid out?
Keep driving it some more?

yes your transmission is overfilled at this point.

dieselbenz1 · #37 05-27-2015, 01:13 PM

If it makes you feel any better I developed a major leak through the B1 cover and am trying to determine if it can be repaired with the box in the car.

Stretch · #38 05-28-2015, 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

If it makes you feel any better I developed a major leak through the B1 cover and am trying to determine if it can be repaired with the box in the car.

Nooooow who was it who made a special tool to do something like that recently?

I can't remember if it was here or on BW - I'll have a hunt about and report back

Hounds · #39 06-30-2015, 07:17 PM

OK. Since I last posted I've driven the car on a few 6 hour trips. All times the level was slightly higher or right on the High mark. I drained a fe cups out. Now the level is always just below the H mark by only a tad with no leaks in the past 1000 miles.

Stretch · #40 07-01-2015, 10:10 AM

Sounds good - how is it shifting?

Hounds · #41 07-01-2015, 03:42 PM

Funny you say that. Car has never shifted that well. There is a 'thump' or clunk half the time. If you stomp down on it and GO it does not do that. If you take it easy shifing low RPM's is when it thumps.

Stretch · #42 07-02-2015, 07:45 AM

Thumps bangs and clangs are never good - if you are sure you've got the correct fluid level check the accelerator linkages and the Bowden cable - then move on to measuring vacuum if you can...

Hounds · #43 07-02-2015, 08:21 AM

I know. Never good. My other one did the same thing. Probably needs to be re-built.
I HAVE fiddled with the cable and linkages, but not vacuum. NOt sure what to even do with that. I don't know enough about the vacuum or what to even do, with that .

Level is good and has been for about 3 weeks now.

However, I noticed that all the linkages are fully stretched out, the ends of threaded rods are at their total end plus the pedal wont' fully reach the floor. That was my first thing I tried. How expensive to replace all the linkage rods? They gotta be original. DO they even stretch? I'm assuming so if all the ends are at the very end and its still not quite right.

Stretch · #44 07-02-2015, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hounds

I know. Never good. My other one did the same thing. Probably needs to be re-built.
I HAVE fiddled with the cable and linkages, but not vacuum. NOt sure what to even do with that. I don't know enough about the vacuum or what to even do, with that .

Level is good and has been for about 3 weeks now.

However, I noticed that all the linkages are fully stretched out, the ends of threaded rods are at their total end plus the pedal wont' fully reach the floor. That was my first thing I tried. How expensive to replace all the linkage rods? They gotta be original. DO they even stretch? I'm assuming so if all the ends are at the very end and its still not quite right.

The joints are potential wear points but there's no reason for a correctly adjusted accelerator linkage to stretch - furthermore it is unlikely you'd get them to stretch in incorrectly adjusted usage.

It sounds like it is totally out of whack.

Have a look at chapter 30-300 in the FSM - this shows you how to adjust the linkages and get the Bowden cable adjusted correctly. Make sure you are following the instructions that are intended for your car!

eatont9999 · #45 07-03-2015, 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hounds

I know. Never good. My other one did the same thing. Probably needs to be re-built.
I HAVE fiddled with the cable and linkages, but not vacuum. NOt sure what to even do with that. I don't know enough about the vacuum or what to even do, with that .

Level is good and has been for about 3 weeks now.

However, I noticed that all the linkages are fully stretched out, the ends of threaded rods are at their total end plus the pedal wont' fully reach the floor. That was my first thing I tried. How expensive to replace all the linkage rods? They gotta be original. DO they even stretch? I'm assuming so if all the ends are at the very end and its still not quite right.

It sounds like someone messed around with the linkages before you bought the car. There are specs for the length of each one. It was a while ago but I asked on this forum and got the specs from the FSM. You might want to do a search and see if you can find that thread.