Going for a leisurely 3-2 downshift, the gear change lever came off in my hand. The shift knob itself is fine. The threaded metal shaft that it threads onto broke off at the point where the threads start. What is this part called? Anyone have a part number? It looks relatively easy to change.

It appears from looking at the break that the shaft was cracked/cut/broken about halfway through a long long time ago, and the crack propagated over time until there was just a little bit left to fail without warning. I was able to get going again using a pair of vice grips for a shift knob, but it's certainly far from optimal.

Vehicle: 83 300D with the manual transmission out of a '77 240D.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Time to ease off those curls..... and spinach ......
At one point someone was trying to fix the reverse spring in the shifter and someone posted a good line drawing from the FSM.... archive search might find it....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Thank you. I found it. #2 is what broke.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/301562-fs-w123-manual-transmission-shifter-assembly-renew-kit.html

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Ok... I would think that is good news... as it is not down inside where sizes are critical to fitting something else...
on the other hand I am surprised at how robust that area is...
might you just put a sleeve over both parts to hold them together ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I thought of that, and if it weren't for reverse, that would be the simple and easy fix. I've got a request in to Pelican now. If it turns out the part is NLA or $$$$ I'll probably take the old part to a fabricator and have him weld it back together, maybe with some type of reinforcement.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Success! Available as part of a kit.

$115 with shipping. My other car is a motorcycle, and it's been unseasonably cold and wet in northern NV lately, so its arrival will be appreciated.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

I'm sure you could get it welded for $20 or so. Shift with a vise grip to get you there.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

I could, but welds are very seldom as strong as the original material and I don't want to have the same problem again.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

??This sounds daft. If that's your experience, I'd find a better welder, or at least stop sailing liberty ships.

In my practical and design experience the bead and heat affected zone are harder that the mild steel they're usually in.

The steel might be bolt hard mid carbon steel, but the hardness you might lose in the heat affected zone is no big deal because it's a designed for stiffness, except where at the end where it needs some hardness for the thread.

I don't think it would bend on you even if you annealed it to 10KSI yield.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Dangit, you made me get the book out. You are technically correct in that the weld material can be and often is stronger than the parent metal. However, it's common for the parent metal to fail at the weld. This is largely the result of cracking in the heat affected zone as the weld cools. It is my personal observation that parts which fracture and are then welded back together fail not long after the repair an annoyingly high fraction of the time.

I'm having a hard time picturing how you would get full penetration welding together the ends of a (roughly) 3/8" diameter rod. I went ahead and calculated the load that would yield a 3/8" diameter shaft with the hypothetical (and flaccid) yield stress of 10,000 psi, with the weld 5.5" from the point of applied force. I came up with 16 pounds. I think I may exceed that to get into reverse. That said, how would you go about welding said shift rod together?

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

If you are in Sparks, there is a 83 240D in the PNP yard. been in there for a while, doesn`t say auto or 4-spd manual.

Worth a shot.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I've been working copious overtime for the past several months, so I have more money than time at the moment, another reason I didn't try to get the old one repaired.

Edit: Though for some reason I can still find time to look up fracture characteristics and stress formulas.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

I'd champfer the edges to make sure I got decent pennetration - laying down several passes if necessary.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You said the rod failed because someone cut it in half... And it still lasted the entire time you've had it... Welded would certainly be stronger than the slotted shaft...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Look for an old dirty welder that doesn't talk much, tell him you will pay cash, grab some lunch, and you are done.

Unless you are the terminator, it will hold.