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  #1  
Old 05-18-2015, 02:32 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 199
mechanical kill switch w110

Hey everyone,
Got a dumb question on my new 1968 200D. Got her started up today.. She has been sitting since 1972 supposedly. I saw this coming so I took off the rubber hose going to the butterfly valve at the top of the manifold just in case she was going to be a run away. Sure enough, turned the key off and it just kept running. Question is, What part of the linkage should I suspect that is making it not turn off when the key goes back to 0? or is there another shut down procedure I am not aware of? Took me a while to figure out how to get the glow plugs to warm up with the rod (with the missing knob that is supposed to say "starter") Is it supposed to shut down when pushing the "starter" knob back down?

Thanks for your time!
Opossum
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'96 c220
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Italian bikes!!!
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  #2  
Old 05-18-2015, 03:51 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 312
Yes, you last sentence is correct. At least that's what my 123 manual has for the older 200/220s. Out once for glowing, out again for starting, then let go and it goes to the first out position, then push it to the wall for shutoff.

Oh and the hose going to the butterfly valve is needed for the governor (assuming there's just the one).
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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 160cc superpump, HX30W turbo
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  #3  
Old 05-18-2015, 11:07 AM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,119
I think you simply have a failure of the normal shut-off mechanism, so no harm done to the engine, right?

"Run-away" and "doesn't shut off with the switch" are usually two different things. A run-away diesel engine typically occurs when the engine begins to consume its own oil as fuel; either oil is getting past the piston rings or the turbo-charger (if present) fails in such a manner to allow oil to flow into the intake manifold.

A run-away engine can also be caused if the injection pump sticks in full or part throttle so the RPM goes to maximum. Sometimes that is as simple as the external linkage sticking, which can be manually corrected, but it may be the internal fuel rack.

Typically in a run-away engine, you must block off the flow of oxygen, either by plugging the intake with something substantial (not a rag, usually a thick piece of wood or a metal plate) or by releasing a CO2 fire extinguisher down the intake. If the injection pump internal fuel rack is stuck, then you can disconnect or squeeze off the fuel line.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #4  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:31 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 199
Perfect! Thanks guys. Yeah, it isnt a total run away but I had a feeling I might have to smother it after start up. It shuts off fine with manipulating the linkage so I figure the rack is fine in the pump. It also shut off very quickly by smothering it. I will just methodically trace back the linkage and find the area where it is sticking and causing it to not shut off.

Thanks again guys!
Opossum
__________________
German autos!!!
'67 250se coupe
'89 190e 2.6 (gone but I kinda miss it)
'96 c220
'07 BMW x3
'59 0319 diesel Omnibus...the "O"
Italian bikes!!!
'64 Lambretta Special 185 hot rod scooter
'66 Lambretta SX200
'59 Lambretta 250 race bike
'70 Lambretta GP200
'77 860gt ducati
'66 ducati monza
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